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2017 Honda Pilot touring. 113K miles. This past august I had my fuel injectors replaced under the recently extended mileage warranty for this issue. After a couple weeks the emissions system light came on AGAIN. Brought it back to Honda they said it needed a software update so they went ahead and did the update. Light stayed off for a few weeks. Now about a month later its back on AGAIN. I understand the injector replacement has fixed most of those with this issue. But I'm still having the same light issue with the replacement injectors. Is this just going to be a constant battle with the "software"? Anyone else having issues with this light AFTER replacing the injectors? I'm using a K&N air filter that hasn't been cleaned in a while. I'm planning to start there along with premium gas etc. Anyone that might have some insight PLEASE HELP. Thanks!
 

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What's the code you are getting? That will help with troubleshooting.

That's where I'd start too, anything that affects fuel and air. Start with a standard paper air filter. Premium gas is irrelevant, but you should be using Top Tier gas that has the good additive package. Run a bottle of Techron through the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's the code you are getting? That will help with troubleshooting.

That's where I'd start too, anything that affects fuel and air. Start with a standard paper air filter. Premium gas is irrelevant, but you should be using Top Tier gas that has the good additive package. Run a bottle of Techron through the fuel system.
Thank you, black bottle techron complete fuel system concentrated? or the silver bottle techron injector cleaner ?
 

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I’m an owner of a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring. My car is at the dealership as I am typing this response. I started to have that issue at 55k mi (in spite of having fuel induction service done- as advised) and injectors were replaced at 70k (covered by Honda). Now my car is at 130k and I’ve been to the dealership about 5-7 times since for the same issue. Now the issue that I have is that my cat converters needed to be replaced ($4k total) as error P0420 and P0430 keeps popping up whenever emission system failure appears.

It is very frustrating as I have always been keeping up with the service intervals and have been very proactive with my service advisor to make sure the car is in optimal performance. There’s no telling what issue will show up next. I remember the reason for buying a Honda is for “peace of mind” as their vehicles are “reliable” but has so far been the opposite with this vehicle. This is the only vehicle that we’ve had that had failed cat converters (130k less than 5 years pf purchase). We had a car for 17 years (300k mi) and never had that replaced.
 

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2017 Honda Pilot touring. 113K miles. This past august I had my fuel injectors replaced under the recently extended mileage warranty for this issue. After a couple weeks the emissions system light came on AGAIN. Brought it back to Honda they said it needed a software update so they went ahead and did the update. Light stayed off for a few weeks. Now about a month later its back on AGAIN. I understand the injector replacement has fixed most of those with this issue. But I'm still having the same light issue with the replacement injectors. Is this just going to be a constant battle with the "software"? Anyone else having issues with this light AFTER replacing the injectors? I'm using a K&N air filter that hasn't been cleaned in a while. I'm planning to start there along with premium gas etc. Anyone that might have some insight PLEASE HELP. Thanks!
Be careful using a K&N filter as the oil that you use on them can contaminate your MAF sensor if you over oil them after cleaning. I would clean your MAF sensor and use a standard air filter and see if the issue comes back. Also I would disable the VCM so that all cylinders are firing 100% of the time and it is an easy fix.
 

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I’m an owner of a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring. My car is at the dealership as I am typing this response. I started to have that issue at 55k mi (in spite of having fuel induction service done- as advised) and injectors were replaced at 70k (covered by Honda). Now my car is at 130k and I’ve been to the dealership about 5-7 times since for the same issue. Now the issue that I have is that my cat converters needed to be replaced ($4k total) as error P0420 and P0430 keeps popping up whenever emission system failure appears.

It is very frustrating as I have always been keeping up with the service intervals and have been very proactive with my service advisor to make sure the car is in optimal performance. There’s no telling what issue will show up next. I remember the reason for buying a Honda is for “peace of mind” as their vehicles are “reliable” but has so far been the opposite with this vehicle. This is the only vehicle that we’ve had that had failed cat converters (130k less than 5 years pf purchase). We had a car for 17 years (300k mi) and never had that replaced.
The new injectors may be fouled again as you have about 60k on them. The service tech should be checking the fuel trims for bank1 and bank2 to see if they are negative (rich). If they are, your cats would be getting saturated resulting in the 420/430 codes. New cats will not solve it if the injectors are faulty again.
 

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Me too! I have a 2016 Elite with about 94000 miles. The light came on in January, they replaced the injectors. 4 weeks later, light comes on again. This time they say cat converters are getting clogged or something and need to be replaced. But they are on backorder nationwide so it could be weeks and weeks. They said it was fine to drive in the meantime, and no lights have come back on. First car we ever owned that required this. Mind you, I also had the transmission replaced at 50k miles because it dropped out of gear repeatedly --while on the interstate!!--and only after I got corporate Honda involved. I'm pretty disappointed in some of these issues, thought this would be more reliable. I was hoping to keep it another year or two but am feeling discouraged.
 

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UPDATE & SPARK PLUG QUESTION- Sorry for missing all the replies. Email notifications were not coming in. I've been battling the emissions light constantly. I drive quite a bit so its been a challenge to use the Techron concentrate often enough. Using this fuel treatment seems to be the only thing that keeps the light off the longest. 2-3 weeks is about as long as i can keep it off. Would probably stay off if I used the fuel treatment every other tank? Just by accident its been quite a while since I last used the techron concentrate (black bottle) and the light is coming on alot more often. It will come on for a day or two then turn off for a day or two. Over and over again. Now that i've gone so long without adding the techron I should hopefully see much better results. I'm just now seeing the info about using a standard air filter so I will do that as well. just refuse to take it in to the dealer as I lose my ever loving mind wasting an entire day just for them to say its not showing a code or we just updated the software. Now that I have 125K miles I'm wondering if changing my spark plugs could possibly help for this issue???
 

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UPDATE & SPARK PLUG QUESTION- Sorry for missing all the replies. Email notifications were not coming in. I've been battling the emissions light constantly. I drive quite a bit so its been a challenge to use the Techron concentrate often enough. Using this fuel treatment seems to be the only thing that keeps the light off the longest. 2-3 weeks is about as long as i can keep it off. Would probably stay off if I used the fuel treatment every other tank? Just by accident its been quite a while since I last used the techron concentrate (black bottle) and the light is coming on alot more often. It will come on for a day or two then turn off for a day or two. Over and over again. Now that i've gone so long without adding the techron I should hopefully see much better results. I'm just now seeing the info about using a standard air filter so I will do that as well. just refuse to take it in to the dealer as I lose my ever loving mind wasting an entire day just for them to say its not showing a code or we just updated the software. Now that I have 125K miles I'm wondering if changing my spark plugs could possibly help for this issue???
At 125K has your timing belt been changed? Get that done and do the plugs at the same time.
 

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UPDATE & SPARK PLUG QUESTION- Sorry for missing all the replies. Email notifications were not coming in. I've been battling the emissions light constantly. I drive quite a bit so its been a challenge to use the Techron concentrate often enough. Using this fuel treatment seems to be the only thing that keeps the light off the longest. 2-3 weeks is about as long as i can keep it off. Would probably stay off if I used the fuel treatment every other tank? Just by accident its been quite a while since I last used the techron concentrate (black bottle) and the light is coming on alot more often. It will come on for a day or two then turn off for a day or two. Over and over again. Now that i've gone so long without adding the techron I should hopefully see much better results. I'm just now seeing the info about using a standard air filter so I will do that as well. just refuse to take it in to the dealer as I lose my ever loving mind wasting an entire day just for them to say its not showing a code or we just updated the software. Now that I have 125K miles I'm wondering if changing my spark plugs could possibly help for this issue???
What DTCs are being reported?
 

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UPDATE & SPARK PLUG QUESTION- Sorry for missing all the replies. Email notifications were not coming in. I've been battling the emissions light constantly. I drive quite a bit so its been a challenge to use the Techron concentrate often enough. Using this fuel treatment seems to be the only thing that keeps the light off the longest. 2-3 weeks is about as long as i can keep it off. Would probably stay off if I used the fuel treatment every other tank? Just by accident its been quite a while since I last used the techron concentrate (black bottle) and the light is coming on alot more often. It will come on for a day or two then turn off for a day or two. Over and over again. Now that i've gone so long without adding the techron I should hopefully see much better results. I'm just now seeing the info about using a standard air filter so I will do that as well. just refuse to take it in to the dealer as I lose my ever loving mind wasting an entire day just for them to say its not showing a code or we just updated the software. Now that I have 125K miles I'm wondering if changing my spark plugs could possibly help for this issue???
Spark plugs should have been replaced at 100k miles. Use NGK Laser Iridium (only). Poor spark can cause fuel not to ignite properly, causing emission codes but this will usually come with misfire codes as well.

Yes, the timing belt water pump job was due at 105k miles if that wasn’t done.

Emission codes can be caused by poor fuel air mixture. I would not replace cats yet. As suggested above, clean air filter and clean the Mass Airflow sensor (MAF). The K&N filter is known to let to much dust through, the MAF is very likely dusty giving an improper reading.
Disconnect MAF and remove. Hold the sensor in your hand as it is installed in vehicle (not upside down). Using CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner, spray a few short burst directly into the visible electrodes (no soaking), let dry completely before re-installing.
 

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I’m an owner of a 2016 Honda Pilot Touring. My car is at the dealership as I am typing this response. I started to have that issue at 55k mi (in spite of having fuel induction service done- as advised) and injectors were replaced at 70k (covered by Honda). Now my car is at 130k and I’ve been to the dealership about 5-7 times since for the same issue. Now the issue that I have is that my cat converters needed to be replaced ($4k total) as error P0420 and P0430 keeps popping up whenever emission system failure appears.

It is very frustrating as I have always been keeping up with the service intervals and have been very proactive with my service advisor to make sure the car is in optimal performance. There’s no telling what issue will show up next. I remember the reason for buying a Honda is for “peace of mind” as their vehicles are “reliable” but has so far been the opposite with this vehicle. This is the only vehicle that we’ve had that had failed cat converters (130k less than 5 years pf purchase). We had a car for 17 years (300k mi) and never had that replaced.
I own a 2017 Honda Pilot Touring. Your situation sounds same as mine. Had injectors replaced at 70K miles. Then at 100K miles the got the P0430 code and dealer said A/F ratio was fine so needed to replace the catalytic converter for $1800. I didn't do and just reset code every 3-5K miles or so. Engine runs fine and I pull 4000lb trailer. At 130K miles I now have both the P0430 and P0420 codes which indicates both bank1 and bank2 have same issue. I'm hopefully will get to dealer next week to get another diagnosis. This sounds like either injectors are not durable with the new DI engine or the original injector failure caused the catalytic converter to fail. I'm going to try and fight with them. I'll let you know if I get anywhere.
 

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I own a 2017 Honda Pilot Touring. Your situation sounds same as mine. Had injectors replaced at 70K miles. Then at 100K miles the got the P0430 code and dealer said A/F ratio was fine so needed to replace the catalytic converter for $1800. I didn't do and just reset code every 3-5K miles or so. Engine runs fine and I pull 4000lb trailer. At 130K miles I now have both the P0430 and P0420 codes which indicates both bank1 and bank2 have same issue. I'm hopefully will get to dealer next week to get another diagnosis. This sounds like either injectors are not durable with the new DI engine or the original injector failure caused the catalytic converter to fail. I'm going to try and fight with them. I'll let you know if I get anywhere.
I was getting the p0430 code prior to getting the injectors replaced and also the fuel trims for bank 2 were greater than -10 which indicated a fuel rich condition. No issues since having them replaced. I would suggest taking some readings of your long and short term fuel trims for both banks to see if they are within spec. Take readings at idle, 1800 rpm and 2800 rpm and see if they stay within the -5 to +5 acceptable range. If not, then you probably have clogged injector nozzles. The P0420 and P0430 codes are triggered by the secondary O2 sensors after the cats and it is possible that they are defective assuming that your fuel trims are OK.
 

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Thanks Hondamon, I just took short term fuel trim readings. Bank 1 at Idle, 1800, and 2800 rpm were -3.1, -3.1, -3.9 respectively Bank 2 where -2.3, -3.9, (-3.9 to -4.7 fluctuating). The O2 sensor replacement would definitely be a lot cheaper than Cats. Will have to try that first. After my first set of of fuel injector replacements I went about 30K miles before starting to get the code again. We've had Honda's for 20 years. This is first real major issue I ever had. Pretty disappointed. At least Honda admitted fault first go around and replaced injectors for free. After reading this forum looks like several others are having problems even after injector replacement. Retired now but in my job as engineer for FRAM we were supplier of filters to Honda for 30 years. Honda had an incredible attention to detail in every part of their filter specifications so sure wasn't expecting this kind of major issue.
 

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UPDATE- I apologize for taking so long on this. I went to autozone while the light was on and their code reader gave out P020 and P030 codes. I finally decided to pay the diagnostics fee at honda to get specific issue in hopes it was a cheap fix. Nope. They are claiming both front and rear cats are bad and must be replaced. $4800. I said to them LOL and no thanks. they said injectors test passed. No other codes for c02 censors or anything else. If the light sometimes goes away then how are my cats the problem? Doesn't make sense. either their bad or their not right? Not a back and forth deal is it? Something up stream is clogging up the cats. Ive read about the vcm feature potentially pushing built up oil into exhaust etc. And if you disable the VCM it could potentially keep the light from coming on. the idea of disabling the vcm intrigues me. Any advice? I will most likely be trading the car in within the year.
 

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Has the timing belt been changed at 105k miles?
Yes, I’d disable the VCM, in addition to…
  • Air Filter new/clean installed correctly (box sealed)
  • Clean the MAF with CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner
  • Spark Plugs replaced at 100k miles. Use NGK Laser Iridium only
  • Replace the PCV valve
  • On time oil changes using a quality full synthetic 0w20 engine oil and a medium < quality oil filter (No semi blend or extended performance oil)
  • Use top tier 87 octane fuel or fuel system or injector cleaner with unbranded
  • Take the vehicle out on the highway for some extended periods of highway speed drives to burn off carbon deposits
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Has the timing belt been changed at 105k miles?
Yes, I’d disable the VCM, in addition to…
  • Air Filter new/clean installed correctly (box sealed)
  • Clean the MAF with CRC Electronic Cleaner or MAF Cleaner
  • Spark Plugs replaced at 100k miles. Use NGK Laser Iridium only
  • Replace the PCV valve
  • On time oil changes using a quality full synthetic 0w20 engine oil and a medium < quality oil filter (No semi blend or extended performance oil)
  • Use top tier 87 octane fuel or fuel system or injector cleaner with unbranded
  • Take the vehicle out on the highway for some extended periods of highway speed drives to burn off carbon deposits
Thank you. vast majority of my miles are highway miles as I am a territory sales rep. What do i need in order to disable the VCM? Do i tune it? Or do i simply disable it altogether?
 
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