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Discussion Starter #1
Last night, my 2016 Pilot EX-L was flashing it's brake and headlights. Dash displayed it's "Smart Entry System" warning light when the car was started. (the one with an exclamation mark over a horizontal key). Out for a spin this morning, the light remained on. Now, after lunch , the warning light isn't on when I start the car.
I've had periods where my factory remote start would not work. I've also had the horn alarm start in the middle of the night. Opening and a good firm closing of the hood solved that problem.
Mine doesn't have a navi system. And I'm using a set of plain steel wheels with no TPMS sensors for my studded winters.
I'll head to the dealer Monday morning. Anyone had similar troubles?
 

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Last night, my 2016 Pilot EX-L was flashing it's brake and headlights. Dash displayed it's "Smart Entry System" warning light when the car was started. (the one with an exclamation mark over a horizontal key). Out for a spin this morning, the light remained on. Now, after lunch , the warning light isn't on when I start the car.
I've had periods where my factory remote start would not work. I've also had the horn alarm start in the middle of the night. Opening and a good firm closing of the hood solved that problem.
Mine doesn't have a navi system. And I'm using a set of plain steel wheels with no TPMS sensors for my studded winters.
I'll head to the dealer Monday morning. Anyone had similar troubles?
ever repacked the fob or car battery?
 

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Car battery would be my first choice ---- how old is it? Have you had it checked? The battery posts clean?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rain has stopped; no snow left, looks like a green Christmas for southern New Brunswick.
Battery posts are clean. Battery is original to this 2016 model.
My "Solar" BA7 tester read 12.55 volts this morning, and also indicated a charge was needed. Car starts up easily.
I thought 12.5 volts would be an minimum acceptable reading.
No warning lights on dash; auto start worked.
Batteries in both fobs were replaced in May of this year.
I'll see if I can locate the grounding points.
Thanks for replies.
 

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3+ year old battery in below freezing weather?..... I would test the battery UNDER LOAD.... not just testing the voltage with a simple volt meter. Many auto parts stores will test your battery for free. May have a bad cell.

A 3+ year old battery can easily go bad. Silly to throw parts at a car, when a simple battery check can be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
3+ year old battery in below freezing weather?..... I would test the battery UNDER LOAD.... not just testing the voltage with a simple volt meter. Many auto parts stores will test your battery for free. May have a bad cell.

A 3+ year old battery can easily go bad. Silly to throw parts at a car, when a simple battery check can be done.
This "Solar tester" is supposed to be the latest in testers; it's called a conductance tester. I'll get a traditional load test done. Check out this link about the Solar tester.

 

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A good makeshift load test is a combination of rear defroster, heated seats and halogen headlights. The load does not need to be hundreds of amps to observe the battery’s voltage stability. Likewise, halogen headlights are a good indicator of battery charge when cranking the engine, they should only dim slightly.
 

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This "Solar tester" is supposed to be the latest in testers; it's called a conductance tester. I'll get a traditional load test done. Check out this link about the Solar tester.

This video neglected to mention that the connection of the tester affects the test result. The load tester showed a good result because it has large clips that hold tightly to a much larger contact area on the battery cable clamps compared to the tiny clips on the Solar tester that could only make contact to the battery cable clamp bolts. Contact area determines how much current can flow during a test. Note that the second demonstration of the Solar tester was with a battery sitting on a bench with no cables attached. This made it possible for the tiny clips on the Solar tester to connect with much larger contact area than in the first demonstration. I would also like to point out that the fellow speaking in the video appeared to have little to no knowledge of electrical theory and battery chemistry based on his choice of wording. The load test, when done by a traditional carbon-pile tester or by a new generation tester analyzes the internal resistance of the battery, which is the measure of how much of the battery’s energy is dissipated internally when a load is placed across its terminals. Both testers do the same thing, and both require the person using them to understand basic electrical circuit theory in order to make a correct and complete analysis of the health of the vehicle’s electrical system. Many a battery and/or alternator and/or starter motor has been errantly replaced simply because the technician really did not know basic electrical circuit theory. Perhaps this guy is really good at driveline or brake system problems, and he should leave the electrical work for someone who understands Ohm’s Law.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dealer diagnosed a faulty hood latch and a passenger side horn that had shorting out. Parts replaced, fusses replaced.; So far so good.
 
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