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If there is play in the inner tie rods then change them, I only had minimal play in the drivers side, so I changed it.
Easy to replace front sway bar bushings?
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The plot thickens. Went in to see my mechanic to get the sway bar bushings installed and discovered that the bracket on the driver's side had popped open and the bushing there was just gone.
No wonder it was clunking like hell's bells. Upon closer inspection, the rear bolt of that bracket had been broken off inside the sub-frame (?) threading, about a quarter inch inside, and the previous bonehead had simply tried to re-attach that side of the bracket with a couple of little welds, the remains of which we could see had certainly not held, and therefore popped, over the course of recent, normal driving. Sheesh. :1pat:
Not only couldn't I have done it myself, but now I'll have to take it in for a much more time-consuming job of removing the remaining embedded bolt stem (how?), but also re-machining a new threading in the sub-frame (?) for a new bolt to hold the sway bar bushing bracket in place properly. :cursin:
No wonder it was clunking like hell's bells. Upon closer inspection, the rear bolt of that bracket had been broken off inside the sub-frame (?) threading, about a quarter inch inside, and the previous bonehead had simply tried to re-attach that side of the bracket with a couple of little welds, the remains of which we could see had certainly not held, and therefore popped, over the course of recent, normal driving. Sheesh. :1pat:Not only couldn't I have done it myself, but now I'll have to take it in for a much more time-consuming job of removing the remaining embedded bolt stem (how?), but also re-machining a new threading in the sub-frame (?) for a new bolt to hold the sway bar bushing bracket in place properly. :cursin:
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13,603 Posts
I'm really getting to like this new mechanic I found. He spent four hours to fix it right for $185 Canadian simoleons. Add to that the $6.50 for the Moog bushings, shipping included, from Rockauto, and I consider myself lucky to be out the door for under $200. Remember, this is no ordinary sway bar bushing replacement. He had to undo the damage caused by the bozo that preceded him.
Now the front end feels as tight as... well, I'll let you complete with a simile of your choice.
The only thing clunking now is a soft drink can in the second row door handle cupholder. And I've still got my inner tie rods left over for a rainy day.
I'm happy now. Thanks to all who contributed to this topic. :2:
Now the front end feels as tight as... well, I'll let you complete with a simile of your choice.
The only thing clunking now is a soft drink can in the second row door handle cupholder. And I've still got my inner tie rods left over for a rainy day.
I'm happy now. Thanks to all who contributed to this topic. :2:
I have an o7 pilot that needs these sway bar bushings replaced on the front.
What tools will I need?
I assume jack it up remove tires place on jack stands , then box wrences to remove brackets, take out old bushing, replace with new, put bracket back on.
Does that sound like correct order?
Do , I need any grease to get new bushing in?
Do I use two wrenches at same time to remove bracket?
What tools will I need?
I assume jack it up remove tires place on jack stands , then box wrences to remove brackets, take out old bushing, replace with new, put bracket back on.
Does that sound like correct order?
Do , I need any grease to get new bushing in?
Do I use two wrenches at same time to remove bracket?
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13,603 Posts
Others who have actually done it themselves will surely give you some good tips, but one I'd suggest is take your time removing the bolts. Don't do like what had been done to mine and break a bolt off. Maybe heat them up a little carefully beforehand and/or spray some WD-40 or whatnot and let it seep in a while before having at it.
Use offset wrench for driver side
A friend of mine told me to try offset wrench and it worked great. I did not lower the sub frame.
I used the offset wrench to loosen the bolt from the driver side tire end and then used a Ratcheting Wrench to take the bolt off.
8 Piece Metric Offset Box Wrench Set
A friend of mine told me to try offset wrench and it worked great. I did not lower the sub frame.
I used the offset wrench to loosen the bolt from the driver side tire end and then used a Ratcheting Wrench to take the bolt off.
8 Piece Metric Offset Box Wrench Set
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40 Posts
14mm deep offset wrench worked perfect for me for the rear driver side bolt. The other 3 were pretty easy. All four bolts were tight all the way out. Time consuming but not difficult.
Thank you everyone for your insight with this fix. I replaced the front bushings today and it fixed the clunking noise. I went with using the 14mm offset wrench and it did the trick. The driver side was a PITA, but it made the pass side that much easier . Like others have said, the key is to be patience with the driver side. Thanks again!
Thank you for the reassuring post! I'd replaced both front (and, rear) sway bar links w/OEMs on my new-2-me '10 & that actually "cured" the clunk...but, I'd ordered bushings at the same time & had been procrastinating installing them due to the degree of difficulty on driver's side. ...gonna take a day & tackle it...with suggested offset wrench to loosen in hopes no sub frame dropping will be required (...gotta keep telling self: patience!! Right?). :29: Mc
If you have a 2010 model, the placement of the front sway bar bushings is much easier than the 2003-2008 models. I have a 2011 model too and I can see there a lot easier and more room to get to the bolts. Good Luck.
Even better news -- thanks! ...looking forward to the project...well, almost :wink:
I replaced the front stabilizer bushings (Moog from Rock Auto) on my new-to-me 2005 Pilot with 167K miles today, thanks to the great advice in this thread. I bought a new Craftsman 14mm offset wrench to help with those rear bolts, especially on the driver's side. The job took about 2 hours and 10 minutes, including putting tools away and taking a test drive. For at least part of the time, that rear driver's side bolt was easier for me to reach from underneath the center of the car than from the wheel side. There's no rust on my car, so everything came off and went back on easily. It just required patience. My front-end clunking is gone, and now I can hear some quieter back-end clunking, which will be a future project.
Could you explain why he count not recommend any of them? If my mechanic said that it could mean almost anything.....
Thanks.
Yes, that is all there is to it. On a 2003, I used a normal socket for 3 bolts and then used a boxed end wrench to get to the driver side rear bolt on drivers side. To get to it, you come at the bolt by reaching from behind and coming at it from the passenger side. Some short videos explain it well if you search for it but be specific to your year as what I wrote may not apply to your year.
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