Easy to replace front sway bar bushings?

48356 Views 43 Replies 20 Participants Last post by plplplpl, Oct 10, 2020

syllinx

Discussion Starter · Mar 11, 2014

I'm just curious if you can slide under with a wrench and swap them out or do I have to loosen other parts etc.
I'm getting a clunk and everything else looks good. Keep getting told it's the sway bar bushings. Can't look now cause i'm at work lol.

Save

1 - 10 of 44 Posts

plplplpl

· #13 · Jun 1, 2015

Gotta say, while I love my new-to-me Pilot, this front end clunking sound going over potholes (can't avoid 'em here) and other less than level surfaces at slow to moderate speeds is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like the mighty and steadfast Honda Pilot SUV has feet of clay.

Reading the present thread, this one and several others has led me to believe that it's probably the front sway bar (i.e. stabilizer bar) bushings. Thanks to all who contributed. :29:

Then I remembered the guy who sold it to me left me some in that little trunk. I uploaded pictures I took of them below, OEM part number 52306-S3V-A00.

However, those appear to be for the rear, and I think the Inner Diameter is .76", whereas the front ones have an Inner Diameter of .91", according to the specs on Rockauto.com, which is therefore why I ended up ordering a couple of the Moog front stabilizer bar bushings there, OEM part number 51306S3VA00. These:

The front and rear bushings sure look alike and the part number is the same except for one digit. Glad I double-checked.

The vehicle handles very well, clunking notwithstanding, so I'm not sure I should switch out the inner tie rods as well. Maybe I'll wait to see if the new sway bar / stabilizer bar bushings solve it, as many here have testified they do.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

plplplpl

· #17 · Jun 6, 2015 (Edited)

nheric said:
my final noise was cured with a new inner tie rod. silent over the bumps now. I love that feeling.

Just ordered a couple from Rockauto.

It's not too expensive for the parts, I figure the next time my mechanic is in there doing the stabilizer bar bushings and other things, I may as well ask him to do the inner tie rods at the same time, since labor would be the biggest part of this repair anyway. Or maybe do it myself.

Save

plplplpl

· #20 · Jun 18, 2015

Now I'm wondering if it's worth the trouble installing the inner tie rods right way, even though I already have them. Maybe just doing the sway bar bushings might be enough.

Save

plplplpl

· #23 · Jun 18, 2015

OK, you guys've convinced me. I'll report back when the job is done.

Save

plplplpl

· #24 · Jun 24, 2015

The plot thickens. Went in to see my mechanic to get the sway bar bushings installed and discovered that the bracket on the driver's side had popped open and the bushing there was just gone.

No wonder it was clunking like hell's bells. Upon closer inspection, the rear bolt of that bracket had been broken off inside the sub-frame (?) threading, about a quarter inch inside, and the previous bonehead had simply tried to re-attach that side of the bracket with a couple of little welds, the remains of which we could see had certainly not held, and therefore popped, over the course of recent, normal driving. Sheesh. :1pat:

Not only couldn't I have done it myself, but now I'll have to take it in for a much more time-consuming job of removing the remaining embedded bolt stem (how?), but also re-machining a new threading in the sub-frame (?) for a new bolt to hold the sway bar bushing bracket in place properly. :cursin:

See less See more

Save

plplplpl

· #26 · Jun 25, 2015

Hum, but welding is what failed. Would your suggestion work better? If so, in what way? Wouldn't the course of repeated bumpy driving eventually result in the weld giving way again?

Save

plplplpl

· #29 · Jun 27, 2015

I'm really getting to like this new mechanic I found. He spent four hours to fix it right for $185 Canadian simoleons. Add to that the $6.50 for the Moog bushings, shipping included, from Rockauto, and I consider myself lucky to be out the door for under $200. Remember, this is no ordinary sway bar bushing replacement. He had to undo the damage caused by the bozo that preceded him.

Now the front end feels as tight as... well, I'll let you complete with a simile of your choice.

The only thing clunking now is a soft drink can in the second row door handle cupholder. And I've still got my inner tie rods left over for a rainy day.

I'm happy now. Thanks to all who contributed to this topic. :2:

Save

Reactions: 1

plplplpl

· #31 · Jun 28, 2015

Others who have actually done it themselves will surely give you some good tips, but one I'd suggest is take your time removing the bolts. Don't do like what had been done to mine and break a bolt off. Maybe heat them up a little carefully beforehand and/or spray some WD-40 or whatnot and let it seep in a while before having at it.