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Yes. Slip rings and brushes can be worn out, giving intermittent service. The front bearing can wear out, causing noise and brush/slip ring failure. Rotor or stator windings can fail as well. Check system voltage with engine running and headlights on and heater fan on high to load system. Should be about 14.4 volts.
 

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I have ck'd all with meter no problems with charging. I drain battery overnight.
Do you have a charging system problem, or a parasitic drain on the battery? Or is the battery unable to hold a good charge due to age?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A parasitic drain, a known problem with pilots, according to this forum and more. I have checked all things posted on here.
 

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Sounds like you have a short in your electrical system. So to answer your question no the alternator wouldn't be the problem for this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
here's a short note on the your answer I just disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hook my voltmeter between that in the terminal the cable in the terminal and I'm getting full voltage to there so it does sound like a short but would anybody know what is causing it
 

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It can be anything from the PCM to a small light. Have the hood, trunk, doors and latches closed (use a screw driver to push in the latch so the car thinks the hood and doors are closed). Hook up your volt meter like how you described and pull the fuses one by one to see if any causes the volts to go down. That'll steer you in the direction of what it could be.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Dan, wouldn't a short blow a fuse. I pulled radio fuse under hood, dropped about a 1/4 volt that's all. Could a starter solenoid leaking through? Also what is the all positive lead on battery go to? When disconnected, no volt drop.
 

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I don't understand your questions about the starter and the positive lead. Be sure to check the fuses on the Driver's Side and Passenger's Side fuse boxes.
 

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here's a short note on the your answer I just disconnected the ground wire from the battery and hook my voltmeter between that in the terminal the cable in the terminal and I'm getting full voltage to there so it does sound like a short but would anybody know what is causing it
All vehicles have a little drain happening with the key off. The vehicle computers stay awake, even when you don't. This could show up on your voltmeter as 12 volts, but it's meaningless. You need to get an ammeter to check the current flow. I think that 40 milliamps or so is ok. That is .040 of an ampere. If you are reading a half amp, or a full amp, then you have an excessive parasitic drain.
 

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If you pulled the negative battery cable off of the battery then measured essentially between battery positive and chassis that is likely due to a charged capacitor. Wait a few minutes and see if you still read ~12Vdc.

The best way to measure where parasitic draw is coming from is to put the meter into milli volt mode and measure voltage across each fuse. The fuses with the highest voltage drops across them indicate those circuits which are drawing the highest current. You perform this measurement with the keys removed from the ignition. Leave the fuses installed when you measure.
 

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I may have the same issue hence posting here instead of a new thread
During the pilot driving I can see in real time the voltage charge go as high as 13.8 volts then would drop 2 volts, every few minutes it would go as low as close to 11 volts under the 12v thresh hold. Then it would spike back up to the 13.8 v . Battery is coming up to 2 years Walmart brand . Alternator was swapped out at The 110k mark on the meter that was 80k or so. So this may be age creeping up on the Alernator.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
just found my battery drain after overlooking the fuse earlier. Hooked meter up and had a 1&1/4 amp draw. Tested again today, and found the problem, the radio fused pulled did the trick. So now I have to see what the problem is with the radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I did find the radio is the parasitic draw problem. I also found a penny down in the aux power port in console, heaven knows how it got there. Still have draw and now the woofer in cargo area is not working.
 

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During the pilot driving I can see in real time the voltage charge go as high as 13.8 volts then would drop 2 volts, every few minutes it would go as low as close to 11 volts under the 12v thresh hold. Then it would spike back up to the 13.8 v . Battery is coming up to 2 years Walmart brand . Alternator was swapped out at The 110k mark on the meter that was 80k or so. So this may be age creeping up on the Alernator.
Get a free alternator + battery test at auto parts store like Advance or Autozone. This can help confirm your own diagnosis. I know you're not fan of this device but my daughter texts me when it's less than 13.8 to 14.4 LOL
 

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