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Yeah, Honda will never certify.
I wouldn't be afraid to use Liqui Moly in my Honda. Viscosity is higher at an index of 165. MaxLife is 156. Looks like good stuff. I am definitely going to be looking at my transmission temps this summer to see how MaxLife is doing in my 6-speed. I would consider Liqui Moly as a next choice. Full Synthetic and a little more viscosity. It sure is pricey.
That Havoline Multi-vehicle ATF viscosity index is 147.
So I dig into it on their website... it's approved for Dex VI and "liqui moly recommended" for DW-1 but is not recommended for Hyundai SP-III. Dangit, I'd still have to stock two products. Sticking with the Valvoline it will be, I can get them cheaper and easier.
 

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If you change it regularly, it's probably fine. I do not think it's full synthetic. So for that reason and price, I'll stick to MaxLife ATF.
I definitely would not put Castrol ATF in my 6-speed. I must know if its full syn.
I love how threads like this turn into debates. The original question was about alternatives for DW1 and there are many alternatives. Castrol Transmax Import Multi Import, Castrol High Mileage and Valvoline MaxLife ATF are great economical choices. I would not have a problem using any of them.There are others too, but they come at a higher cost (Redline, Amsoil etc.)and really don’t add any greater benefits than the others noted above. The debate of Dino vs Synthetic will go on forever as it does with motor oil. The #1 killer of transmissions is heat and your best protection is to change the transmission fluid on regular basis. Personally for me, I change it at the 1st 15,000 miles and after that, every 25,000 miles. Yes, I realize this is an aggressive approach to some, but it works for me. If the vehicle is still under warranty, I would stick with DW-1 until your out of warranty. For those that have any interest, this is coming from someone that has the followIng vehicles:
2010 Honda Ridgeline- 187,000 miles( Switched to Castrol Transmax at 54,000 miles bought used)
2011 Honda Pilot- 145,000 miles(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 40,000 miles)
2008 Acura TL Type S- 374,000 miles(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 40,000miles )
2006 Honda Pilot - 144,000miles.(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 80,00 miles( Bought used).
To add to the debate, I used Walmart’s Full Synthetic Motor oil during the life of the vehicles. Current using the 5w20 Full Synthetic High Mileage in all the vehicles. The secret to all of this is change your fluids on a regular basis and pick something that meets or exceed the manufacture’s specs and makes you feel comfortable. In the end, you’re only renting the fluids until your next change.
 

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I love how threads like this turn into debates. The original question was about alternatives for DW1 and there are many alternatives. Castrol Transmax Import Multi Import, Castrol High Mileage and Valvoline MaxLife ATF are great economical choices. I would not have a problem using any of them.There are others too, but they come at a higher cost (Redline, Amsoil etc.)and really don’t add any greater benefits than the others noted above. The debate of Dino vs Synthetic will go on forever as it does with motor oil. The #1 killer of transmissions is heat and your best protection is to change the transmission fluid on regular basis. Personally for me, I change it at the 1st 15,000 miles and after that, every 25,000 miles. Yes, I realize this is an aggressive approach to some, but it works for me. If the vehicle is still under warranty, I would stick with DW-1 until your out of warranty. For those that have any interest, this is coming from someone that has the followIng vehicles:
2010 Honda Ridgeline- 187,000 miles( Switched to Castrol Transmax at 54,000 miles bought used)
2011 Honda Pilot- 145,000 miles(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 40,000 miles)
2008 Acura TL Type S- 374,000 miles(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 40,000miles )
2006 Honda Pilot - 144,000miles.(Switched to Castrol Transmax at 80,00 miles( Bought used).
To add to the debate, I used Walmart’s Full Synthetic Motor oil during the life of the vehicles. Current using the 5w20 Full Synthetic High Mileage in all the vehicles. The secret to all of this is change your fluids on a regular basis and pick something that meets or exceed the manufacture’s specs and makes you feel comfortable. In the end, you’re only renting the fluids until your next change.
If you have a 5-speed Honda, I can whole heartedly recommend Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I haven't the patience to list all my 8 vehicles that are currently on MaxLife and the 100s of 1000s of miles we have logged using it.
I do agree that heat is the killer of transmissions. Full Synthetic is proven to be better protection and less likely to break down under heat.
I am currently using MaxLife in a 2017 Pilot EX-L 6-speed. This vehicle was bought salvage, rebuilt and has no waranty. At 20k miles I discovered black DW-1 in the transmission. I am tempted to try Liqui Moly 1800 in the Pilot because it too is full synthetic but has a slightly higher viscosity. I'm not totally convinced that I'm out of danger of loosing the transmission in this vehicle because of the lack of care by the previous owner. I do know I'm not going back to DW-1. I did one DW-1 drain and fill and still had bad symptoms. I saw a noticeable difference after 1 drain and fill of MaxLife. I did it 2 more times. It's definitely shifting better but I'm not willing to recommend anyone change from DW-1 in their 6-speed. But I wouldn't go more than 1 hot summer on DW-1 or any conventional or blended ATF. That includes Castrol Transmax. The less I'm under my 10 vehicles for transmission fluid changes, the better. Full synthetic is how I accomplish that.
 

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Had an interesting discussion with a friend who is a guru of Mercedes-Benz transmissions. He opines that a very large percentage of the gearboxes that he works on have or have had MaxLife in them recently. Not a Honda data point, but a reminder that there aren't any 'universal' ATF options quite yet. I had tried M-1 synthetic ATF, recommended for the Dexron-III that my MB 723 box was originally shipped with. Shifted much firmer than I was used to, even though operating system and control pressures were still well within spec. It came out, and I went back to the Castrol that had worked so well. Original factory fluid fill was with Shell lubricants, FWIW. Seems I'm doomed to multiple products for the multiple cars in the collection.
 

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Had an interesting discussion with a friend who is a guru of Mercedes-Benz transmissions. I had tried M-1 synthetic ATF, recommended for the Dexron-III that my MB 723 box was originally shipped with. Shifted much firmer than I was used to, even though operating system and control pressures were still well within spec. It came out, and I went back to the Castrol that had worked so well. Original factory fluid fill was with Shell lubricants, FWIW.
If Shell Dexron III ATF was the factory fill, and since Shell owns Pennzoil, why not use Pennzoil Dexron III ATF?
PENNZOIL® AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

 

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Just because two companies are owned by the same entity does not mean that their products are the same. If they were there is no reason to keep both names, advertising, etc.
 

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Had an interesting discussion with a friend who is a guru of Mercedes-Benz transmissions. He opines that a very large percentage of the gearboxes that he works on have or have had MaxLife in them recently. Not a Honda data point, but a reminder that there aren't any 'universal' ATF options quite yet. I had tried M-1 synthetic ATF, recommended for the Dexron-III that my MB 723 box was originally shipped with. Shifted much firmer than I was used to, even though operating system and control pressures were still well within spec. It came out, and I went back to the Castrol that had worked so well. Original factory fluid fill was with Shell lubricants, FWIW. Seems I'm doomed to multiple products for the multiple cars in the collection.
When I was doing the ATF fluid change on my mom's Wrangler, which uses the 722 auto (or NAG-1 or W5A50 or whatever other terms Daimler-Chrysler used) it was pretty strongly recommended to use the Chrysler ATF+4, which is manufactured by Mercedes for those transmissions. Some of those guys are real hard on their transmissions and it seemed no aftermarket fluid behaved as well as the Mercedes fluid.
 

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The only Honda fluid alternative I'd use is Idemitsu Type H. It's fully syn, cheaper and the same company that makes Honda fluids.
 

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The only Honda fluid alternative I'd use is Idemitsu Type H. It's fully syn, cheaper and the same company that makes Honda fluids.
Can you supply proof that it's full synthetic. I don't see it. It's not on the bottle.
H is an alternative for Z-1.
The viscosity index is 171
H Plus is an alternative for Z-1 and DW-1. The viscosity index is 258.
 

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This is like any other oil thread. Everyone has their own very strong opinion on what they want to put in their car. Everyone just put whatever fluid you want in your car. Some work better than others but many can't tell any difference at all. Do what you want and don't argue with people because they choose something different.
 

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This is like any other oil thread. Everyone has their own very strong opinion on what they want to put in their car. Everyone just put whatever fluid you want in your car. Some work better than others but many can't tell any difference at all. Do what you want and don't argue with people because they choose something different.
This is just a friendly debate among friends. All is fine. Nothing to worry about.
135037
 

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So far, at this point, Liqui Moly 1800 looks like the only one I'd give a shot and drain out the MaxLife in a Honda 6-speed.
 

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This is like any other oil thread. Everyone has their own very strong opinion on what they want to put in their car. Everyone just put whatever fluid you want in your car. Some work better than others but many can't tell any difference at all. Do what you want and don't argue with people because they choose something different.
I disagree, I think this one has stayed pretty reasonable. Most of this type of thread tends to get out of hand with insults and arguments. I actually think some good info has come out in this thread about all of the obscure options available thanks to @xGS and he/she even got a stubborn fogey like @Nail Grease to change which product he/she is using.
 

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So far, at this point, Liqui Moly 1800 looks like the only one I'd give a shot and drain out the MaxLife in a Honda 6-speed.
Have you looked any of the various formulas of full synthetic ATF offered by Red Line?
Red Line Synthetic Oil. Automatic Transmission Fluids

D6 is their recommended equivalent for DW-1:
D6 ATF
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/D6_ATF_PROD_INFO.pdf

D4 is their recommended equivalent for Z-1:
D4 ATF
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/D4_ATF_PROD_INFO(1).pdf

Their High Temp ATF is a more viscous version of D4:
High-Temp ATF
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/HIGH_TEMP_ATF_PROD_INFO.pdf
 

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Red Line D4 viscosity index = 188
Red Line D6 = 163
Liqui Moly = 165.
MaxLife = 156
Where my thinking is on this is MaxLife may be a little thin for the Honda 6-speed transmission. As I've said earlier it has cured the slipping and is providing a more responsive shift. But maybe to responsive. Maybe a little heavier viscosity ATF will make it even smoother.
In my opinion RL D4 is to heavy for the 6-speed Honda transmission. The RL D6 is what is recommended as a DW-1 alternative. It could be in the game but at $52 bucks a gallon is just ridiculous.
Liqui Moly 1800 20 Liters at $105.89 at Rockauto still seems to win out as my next option.
135049
 

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I disagree, I think this one has stayed pretty reasonable. Most of this type of thread tends to get out of hand with insults and arguments. I actually think some good info has come out in this thread about all of the obscure options available thanks to @xGS and he/she even got a stubborn fogey like @Nail Grease to change which product he/she is using.
135050

Lol
 

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As long as the conversations are civil, we'll keep this thread open, but once it reaches the argumentative stage or comes to personal attacks, then this thread will be locked. Now back to your regular programming.
 

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As long as the conversations are civil, we'll keep this thread open, but once it reaches the argumentative stage or comes to personal attacks, then this thread will be locked. Now back to your regular programming.
I'm shocked that you would ever have to do such a thing. Has it really gotten that bad before? I try to view everyone's words in a favorable light. As if they were angelic.
 
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