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Discussion Starter #1
The motor on my drivers-side window regulator appeared to have died. I tested it outside the vehicle and it wouldn't work. I put in a replacement and it isn't working either. The fuse is good and I swapped it with another one to be safe. All other windows work fine.

Any ideas on what could be the issue? Could it be the L P/W Control Unit inside the door?

Thanks.
 

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Did you test the replacement regulator outside of the door?

If you have a volt meter you can measure for the expected voltage at the window regulator power connection.
 

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And when testing the voltage, remember to test the ground as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the ideas. I can turn a wrench but I don't have any experience doing electrical testing on cars. Any instructions on how you do this. Any websites you would recommend having step by step?
 

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Check out How to Use a Multimeter - Beginner's Guide | Random Nerd Tutorials

You’ll be mainly interested on how to measure DC voltage and continuity.
If you end up buying a meter get familiar using it by measuring voltage across an AA battery (fully charged alkaline will be around 1.6Vdc) and testing for continuity across an unpowered wire. Once you’re comfortable taking those measurements then you can start checking your window circuit.

I’m guessing there are lots of YouTube videos out there on how to test them. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to find a wiring diagram for the power window circuit. You might sign up for Autozone membership as sometimes they provide wiring diagrams.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I bought a digital tester. The driver side window has six wires (4 on one row and 2 on another). Does anyone know which of these I would test and how to go about it? I looked at wiring diagrams and couldn't figure it out. Thanks.
 

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If you post a photo of the wiring diagram I’ll see if I can offer any suggestions. Hopefully the diagram indicates wire colors.
 

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The ignition key will likely need to be turned one or two clicks when taking voltage measurements. Set your meter to DC (straight line symbol) voltage. Red meter lead inserted in positive port, black meter lead inserted in common port.

It looks like power at the module is at pin 7 and ground is at pin 1. Measure voltage between those two points; red lead on pin 7 and black lead on pin 1. It should be ~12Vdc. Also measure voltage between pin 8 and pin 1 since that might be input power from the battery (not sure since diagram is cut off).

Disconnect the window motor harness and measure at the harness pins 1 and 2. Should be +12Vdc when window switch is pressed up and -12Vdc when window switch is pressed down. It might be opposite depending on which meter lead you connect to which motor pin but basically you’re looking for the same voltage but opposite polarity when you press up versus down.

Report back what you measure and we’ll take it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am totally novice on this and have some questions. The driver's door window controls has a light blue wire harness that connects at one end of it. See attached. Is that the pin connections you are referring to? And the pin number references are those exact numbers as shown at the bottom section of the wiring diagram that is called "power window control unit"?
 

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The first place you will probe will be the connector on the Power Window Control Unit. Sorry, that’s what I referred to as module in my previous post. If that connector you posted the photo of connects to the power window control unit that is where you will probe. Have the connector plugged in when you probe. You will have the meter lead touch the metal crimp (what holds wire into connector body) on the wire side of the connector. Reference the wire diagram for wire color correlation to pin number. The first color listed will be the main wire color and the second color the stripe color if present.

After that you will probe at the motor. Initially probe with the connector disconnected from the motor. Then you can plug it in and probe again.

Let me know if this makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Road2cycle: I tested it and here are my findings:

1. Pin 7 to 1: 12.29 volts
2. Pin 8 to 1: .09 volts
3. Power harness at regulator: .09 volts

All windows but drivers side work. New regulator works when connected direct to battery. Have tested fuses and they work.

Let me know if I missed something and what additional steps I need to do.

Thanks.
 

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Okay, since the diagram is cut off we won’t worry about Pin 8 on the power window module for now.

Connect all the harnesses back up. You will now probe on the driver master window switch. Ignition will need to be turned one or two clicks.

Measure voltage at:
1) A2 to A13. Should get ~12vdc.
2) A10 to A13 when driver window switch pressed down. Should be ~12vdc. Also measure when switch is not being pressed.
3) A11 to A13. Same as #2 except switch pressed for up.
Black meter lead on A13 for all three tests.
Report back what you measure.

If you kept the original window regulator test it out too when connected directly to the battery.

And just to be certain on the fuse(s) which are part of the circuit pull them out and measure resistance across them. Reading should be very close to 0 ohms. If you get something like 48m on the meter that means 48/1000 of an ohm which is very close to 0.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tested the first one and got 12+ volts.
Tested the second one and...it started working!!
Skipped step 3 as too busy doing cart wheels down the street.

Thanks Road2Cycle!! All back together and working. I really appreciate your help on this.
 

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Glad to hear it’s up and running.

If the problem comes back check the condition of the connector pins on the master window switch and its associated harness. It seems like there may have been a bad connection between those two which “self-healed” through multiple disconnections and re-connections, or the connector crimp pin was pushed back to the right spot when probing the wire side of the harness.
 
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