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2007 Pilot LX 2WD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, this is my first post here and I have an 07 Pilot LX 2WD. I just replaced my front driver side lock actuator as it died on me. Now, whenever I close my door with the keys in the ignition, the locks throughout the truck would unlock twice, then finally lock. It’s like it’s telling me there’s a red flag.

This can also be replicated with the keys in the ignition, open the front driver side door, press on the door jamb and there it goes.


Has anyone else experienced this? What did you do aside from going to the dealer nor a shop. I also noticed that when I open my truck with physical key, before, I can turn twice and it engages to unlock or lock all doors. Now it doesn’t even do that and I’m thinking there’s something wrong with the cylinder switch.

Thoughts?
 

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Where did you source your replacement door actuator?


Also, just crossing the t's and dotting the i's, but did you properly reconnect your driver's side door courtesy light? Not doing so has led to "unexpected" behavior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Bought the actuator from AutoZone as I have bought other replacement actuators there before and worked fine.

the courtesy Light lights up just fine. Also, one thing to note is I can’t open all locks now when turning a physical key twice from the outside. I can only open and lock using the physical key on the driver side door.
 

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Miss our 2005 Pilot
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I’d pull the door panel off and make sure all electrical connections are properly mated. Also check for loose wires, oxidized/rusted electrical contacts, etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That makes sense. I’ll go ahead and clean all the contacts again. I also ordered a replacement door cylinder switch and a factory door lock actuator from Hondapartsnow. I’m also thinking that the AutoZone door lock actuator is making it act really weird. Wasn’t doing any of those before until I replaced it.
 

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Maybe consider getting one of the daily driver models available here:

2007 HONDA PILOT 3.5L V6 Door Lock Actuator | RockAuto


Also, one thing to note is I can’t open all locks now when turning a physical key twice from the outside. I can only open and lock using the physical key on the driver side door.
I always thought it was turning and holding the physical key that unlocks all the doors:

To unlock the
driver’s door from the outside, turn
the key and release it. If you turn
and hold it, all doors and the tailgate
unlock.
Works for me.

Also, that's what the Owner's Manual says on page 82. :)
 

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open the front driver side door, press on the door jamb and there it goes.
If you are talking about pressing something on the hinge side of the door, I would be suspicious of a broken wire that passes from the door to another computer in the body of the car.
There is a mini computer in the door, beneath the window buttons. It sends computer signals on a pair of wires, across the hinged opening, to another computer under the dashboard(?), for all window opening/closing commands, as well as lock/unlock commands, mirror movement commands, etc.

I would also be suspicious of the door latch or wiring. It has a 2 pin plug which operates a motor to make the thumb button near the window go up and down, and the outside handle inoperative. I believe that the 3 pin plug is going to a pair of switches inside the latch assembly, that tells the computer that the latch has locked or unlocked. Maybe this isn't making a good connection? Either the wires, or the internal switch?

The key cylinder on the external door handle has a switch on the back of it which has a plastic "tang" shaped like a flat screwdriver blade, which needs to be seated in a slot on the back side of the door lock cylinder. If you buy the wrong door lock cylinder, the inner end will be too short, and the switch tang will not engage into the slot on the lock cylinder- thus won't send it's signal when you turn the key in the door.

I believe that if the car's computers do not see the switches work in the way they expect, the computers don't do things correctly. Just like plplpl wrote, one Piloteer saw some unusual thing happen because he forgot to install the courtesy light at the bottom of the door.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you are talking about pressing something on the hinge side of the door, I would be suspicious of a broken wire that passes from the door to another computer in the body of the car.
There is a mini computer in the door, beneath the window buttons. It sends computer signals on a pair of wires, across the hinged opening, to another computer under the dashboard(?), for all window opening/closing commands, as well as lock/unlock commands, mirror movement commands, etc.

I would also be suspicious of the door latch or wiring. It has a 2 pin plug which operates a motor to make the thumb button near the window go up and down, and the outside handle inoperative. I believe that the 3 pin plug is going to a pair of switches inside the latch assembly, that tells the computer that the latch has locked or unlocked. Maybe this isn't making a good connection? Either the wires, or the internal switch?

The key cylinder on the external door handle has a switch on the back of it which has a plastic "tang" shaped like a flat screwdriver blade, which needs to be seated in a slot on the back side of the door lock cylinder. If you buy the wrong door lock cylinder, the inner end will be too short, and the switch tang will not engage into the slot on the lock cylinder- thus won't send it's signal when you turn the key in the door.

I believe that if the car's computers do not see the switches work in the way they expect, the computers don't do things correctly. Just like plplpl wrote, one Piloteer saw some unusual thing happen because he forgot to install the courtesy light at the bottom of the door.
thanks for the really thoughtful response. Currently, I am waiting to receive a few things from hondapartsnow. I ordered a new door cylinder switch, door checker, lock switch (since the current one is worn out) will replace once I have the panel taken down again, and a factory lock actuator. I’ve checked the wires and it seemed like they’re good visually. The actuator that I got, not so sure since it’s an AutoZone one and it’s the only one I replaced and the garage I usually bring my car to said that it might be the electronics portion of the actuator that’s giving feedback. We shall see!
 
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