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Discussion Starter #1
I got my 2" Draw Tite Hitch last week - and here's how it went....

BTW - www.etrailer.com

Pictures to Follow.....

First, you'll have to remove that loop looking thingy that was probably used for tying down your pilot during transport. I think I remember it taking a 17mm ratchet.

Once that's out, the hitch is a pretty simple install - except you should have a friend help you out - the hitch weighs about 40 lbs. - which means it's tough to hold up while trying to bolt it in at the same time. The provided bolts are 3/4" socket, and we used a 3/8" drive ratchet with a pretty long handle for an extra bit of torque....

There was a hole alignment issue.....once I got one side in and began to bold the other side, the last hole was about 1/2 off center (passenger side, forward most). So, we loosened up the bolts on the drivers side a few turns, and removed the passenger side bolts completely. After that we started with the forward most passenger side bolt. We did this by having one person pulling with all their might (yours truly) to get that pesky hole to line up and having the other person get that bolt threaded. After that, the others went in pretty easy (we needed to keep pulling on the hitch while they were started).

Voila! Hitch installed.....

BTW - there were some that mentioned that the factory hitch is better because it uses a bolt or two in the center in addition to the four on each side. This sounds good, but once you take a look under the car, you'll notice that the bolts that are placed here are TINY compared to the other EIGHT that are used - and they are also being bolted into an area of frame that is MUCH thinner as well.......

Seeing this made me feel much better about using an aftermarket hitch, and I feel VERY confident about installing my hitch cargo carrier next week......check for pics on that next week.

PS - I believe that the Draw Tite 2" hitch is rated at 300 lbs tongue weight - about 150+ lbs MORE than I plan on placing there.....
 

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Did you reinstall the loopy thing? BTW, I think that loop is for towing purposes (for when a winch is needed to get you out of a jam).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The loopy thing cannot be reinstalled - the hitch sides prevent it....but I guess if you have a hitch, it can be used for the same purpose.....

I should also add that that last picture was taken from a pretty low angle.....the hitch is fairly well hidded, and unless you sitting on the ground, you don't see much more than the flag.
 

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idloveaguinness said:
...the hitch weighs about 40 lbs.
That's half the weight of the Honda hitch. Since I would use the hitch sparingly, I didn't want to lug around an 80lb hitch all the time. Especially with my 16mpg! Sounds like I might be in the market for another add-on! :)
 

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Ferdball, FYI the Hidden Hitch has a tongue weight equivalent to the Honda Hitch and (per UPS shipping) weighs 52 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The hitch could weigh 52 lbs.....I was just guessing, and I forgot what the shipping weight was. 52 lbs does sound a little heavier than it felt, though.

ANOTHER FYI - I also got one of those locking pins (to keep my flag where it belings) and it's also an anti-rattle device. I can see it keeping a trailer or cargo carrier from rattling around, but the pin itself rattles a bit - driving me crazy wondering what was going on back there. I finally figured out (by banging on EVERYTHING under the car with my fist) that it was just the locking part of the pin, and was able to fix it with a little cloth tape.
 

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I bought the hidden hitch and it went in just was easily. This is definetly a DIY accessory.

I may pull a small trailer in the future but didn't purchase the tail light hookup. Is this also as easy to install? Is there a wiring harness somewhere under the Pilot to tie into?

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I also did not purchase the wiring setup.......but I did notice a bundle in the jack cubby - I bet it could be tapped there.......

One thing I am concerned with - the jack is realitively low to the ground when compared to other SUV's - I wonder if this will create a problem pulling into driveways, etc with a cargo carrier that's 2' deep.....hmmm. I guess there is a way around this with some kind of "S" adapter. The "arm" of the cargo carrier is bent slightly, angling it up a bit - this may be enough.
 

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idloveaguinness said:
I also did not purchase the wiring setup.......but I did notice a bundle in the jack cubby - I bet it could be tapped there.......

One thing I am concerned with - the jack is realitively low to the ground when compared to other SUV's - I wonder if this will create a problem pulling into driveways, etc with a cargo carrier that's 2' deep.....hmmm. I guess there is a way around this with some kind of "S" adapter. The "arm" of the cargo carrier is bent slightly, angling it up a bit - this may be enough.
I have had no trouble with a 2' load platform, or a 4 bike carrier.
The hitch (well the Honda one at least) is higher than the one on my CR-V.

As for the extra bolts on the Honda hitch. I believe these are important for things like load platforms as they put much more downward pressure on the hitch than a trailer does.

I was also thinking they insure that the rear most cross member is not bypassed in a colission, so the crush zone is not changed by hitch. This would ber a concern for the vehicle Mfg, but could be ignored by an aftermarket hitch mfg.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The platforms put more downward force on the hitch (but I guess it depends on how much weight you are putting on a platform, compared to whatever you might tow)....in my case, I'm not concerned. I only plan on putting some empty coolers, sleeping bags, etc. Bulky, light stuff that would otherwise cramp the inside of the car (or make us leave stuff at home. I doubt I would reach even 100 lbs, not including the carrier (50 lbs or so) which is less than 1/2 of what the hitch is rated for.

Those 8 bolts are REALLY beefy, not to mention that thick steel plate and tubing the hitch is made of - I don't see it bending/twisting under anything but it's outer capacity limits and under severe driving conditions.

On the other hand - you can't go wrong with an extra bolt or two, even if they are smaller.

Regarding height - the Draw Tite leaves about the same spacing between the bumper and the receiver.
 

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sjohns6 said:


I may pull a small trailer in the future but didn't purchase the tail light hookup. Is this also as easy to install? Is there a wiring harness somewhere under the Pilot to tie into?

Scott
The instructions look pretty simple. Here's a link.

Trailer Hitch Harness Install Instructions
 

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I'd like to add a recommendation. Put blue Locktite on all the bolts prior to assembly. They wont loosen, but will be easier to get off if you want to.
 

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Great thread and posts!
 

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draw tite hitch

I noticed that a couple of members have complained about the hanger on the rear portion of the muffler making contact with the bar of the hitch when the muffler heats up. Have you noticed this problem with you draw-tite hitch? I have purchased a draw-tite hitch but haven't installed it yet. I'm having second thoughts..........
 

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Re: draw tite hitch

debh97330 said:
I noticed that a couple of members have complained about the hanger on the rear portion of the muffler making contact with the bar of the hitch when the muffler heats up. Have you noticed this problem with you draw-tite hitch?
It's obvious that the draw-tite hitch have a design flaw. Some members have to bend the metal hanger for the muffler so it will not make contact w/ the hitch. The draw-tite hitch also prevents you from installing a full size spare.
 

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Full size spare

I have a Drawtite hitch and it installed easy, but don't plan on a full size spare going back under there if you have a flat. Better keep a big plastic trash bag in the car so you can put it in the back. On the other hand, how many times has anyone ran around on the spare tire very long. No big deal !
 
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