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Discussion Starter #1
2012 Pilot
87K miles

Hi, the right rear door lock started acting up a few weeks ago. If doesn’t cycle with the other locks and locks, but doesn’t unlock, either when put in park, pressing unlock button on driver door panel, or through the the key fob. Because this door doesn’t unlock, tailgate won’t open....only through key fob. Was working like that for a week then suddenly started working.

Yesterday it did it again and this time the front right door doesn’t work...doesn’t lock or unlock.

I’ve taken the panel doors off and I notice that the connector has 4 wires going to the actuators. Two I know are power feeds, and have confirmed...they light up my test light when locking and unlocking. The other two wires I’m figuring are ground wires....but not sure. Whe. Testing for ground on these I can’t confirm that they are.

Anyone has a schematic on the door locks?

Wil




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Not sure they are rebuildable, better off just getting new actuators. Honda has never got door lock actuators down.
 

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Schematic shows that the driver's lock actuator gets LT GRN from N7 on the MICU (part of the fuse panel near the driver's knee), and GRY from N13. The other three lock actuators are wired in parallel, each getting the same LT GRN but from E21, and YEL from E14.

This tells me that you have a wiring issue to the actuators rather than a control issue.

You only mention using the driver's door LOCK/UNLOCK switch. Since only one actuator is failing and the others seem to work OK, this will come down to testing individual conductors. "normal" failure points are most often where the wiring flexes as it passes into the door.

The actuators do not include ground in the circuit diagram. The MICU LOCK relay applies power to the LT GRN at N7 and E21. The UNLOCK relay applies power to the GREY wire for the driver's door, and to the YELLOW wires to the other doors. If you can share the colors on the other two wires you see to the actuators I may be able to tell what they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When pressing the lock/unlock button on driver side or the fob this is what happens:
Front Left (driver) door: locks/unlocks
Rear Left door: locks/unlocks
Front Right door: no response to lock/unlock
Rear Right door: locks at times/dead on the unlock

If I can get a copy of the schematic so I can trace the wiring....it sure would help.


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Discussion Starter #5
Today....driver doors started acting up. By midday I have no power lock/unlock feature...on any doors.
 

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Today....driver doors started acting up. By midday I have no power lock/unlock feature...on any doors.
How's the battery? Sometimes a battery on the way out causes havoc with electrical components, dashboard lights, etc.
 

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I can't copy the copyrighted info and post it here. You can buy a set of your own as part of the service manual set. The wire colors and terminal numbers are descriptions of what's on the wiring diagram.

Your erratic symptoms make it a little tough to remotely troubleshoot. The "smart" part of the system lives in the MICU module that's part of the fuse panel by the driver's left knee. That controller module drives lights, power windows, and more. There are connectors to it front and rear, each with a letter designator. In the connectors, I gave you the wire number and the color, along with the function. Check at those connections with your DMM to verify that the signals are available. Then go to the actuators and see if the signals are available there.
 

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This sounds like an issue I am having any more details on a resolution would be helpful.

My specific situation. 2009 EXL, initially had an issue with the tailgate not actuating/releasing. Currently able to pop rear window and reach into emergency release panel to open manually. Tried jumping the wires coming from the switch and would not actuate, so I don't think it is the switch. Now neither fob or door buttons will lock or unlock any of the doors. I can only actuate the back glass. Seems like doors are probably unrelated to tailgate issue (something in the controller wrong for the doors, maybe a bad actuator for the tailgate)? Also, possibly related as I have read other posts, the battery was dying on me (6 years old) and I just replaced it with no change in either issue.

Any more information I need to give or does anyone have ideas of where to start?
 

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I recommend that you look for info in the appropriate forum for your year. With luck, moderator Rocky will move your posts to that thread so you don’t have to retype everything. Good luck in your quest!
 

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I have a very similar situation on my 2012.

It started with the driver door. It wouldn’t respond to electrical looking or unlocking. I replaced the actuator (white unit)/ lock itself with an OEM replacement. That worked for a while.

Now, a month later, the door behind the driver won’t lock or unlock electrically. Also same issue spread to the rear hatch. Oddly enough, pressing the auto lift gate will open the back.

I’ll have the battery tested. I also have a replacement unit for the rear driver side door already in hand. If those fail to solve the problem, I’ll have to break down and take it in.

Edit: Battery is holding a charge IMO at 12.46 over 24+ hrs of non-use. Will test the dip at startup. It’s 40F in the garage.
 
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