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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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Oh,
Looks like you mentioned that too.

Well SOB, Now the front lights WON'T WORK when you push the map light on!

Door open- both work- check.
Turn the interior lights 'ON' with the left hand switch- both work- Check
Try pushing the dome light- that came on before I changed the switch?- Nothing!
SOB.
Is it now the bulb?
Pretty straightforward install, took literally a few minutes. I fixed the one thing- coming on when the door is opened, and messed up the manual push it on/off?
What did I do wrong?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Can't be the bulb if it works with some permutations.

Try redoing it, but this time go easy on the dielectric grease. Or so I've been told. :) Remember, dielectric grease is non-conductive.

It Happens


Also make sure you reinserted the lenses correctly (without breaking their fragile clips).

As well, once reinstalled, try pushing the microswitches directly before reattaching the lenses to see if that works. If not, perhaps you got bad switches, though it would be surprising if they were both bad. Where did you get them from?
 

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Thanks.
Actually I DID NOT use any di-electric grease. I figured up there in the cabin, corrosion, etc. isn't an issue anyways. I knew about it actually being non-conductive too.

No, the lenses you pop off to get in there, before you take down the unit, are working fine also. I did bend the tabs a bit before I realized it need that chassis ground to work.

These are the ones Ordered:

It clearly states it is for my year Pilot under: Compatible vehicles.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Those switches should be good, and to have gotten two bad ones is highly unlikely.

Here's a thing. When I looked at the three little prongs that slide into the microswitches (BTW, make sure you've slid them in all the way), I noticed that one of them was covered with a thin patina of corrosion, whereas the other two were shiny clean. I gently but thoroughly scraped it off with a flathead screwdriver and my fingernails while holding up the opposite side with my finger, so as not to bend those prongs. Maybe you could even use a little sandpaper, and I don't know if that was a problem, but my job did fix those dome lights and allow them to work in all permutations.
 

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Well, I guess Jupiter has aligned with Mars. There is peace among the planets.…

I took it all apart and realized I had bent the prongs a little bit One Direction and so I’ve bent them back. None of them had any corrosion on them. I reassembled it.
IT works!

No it works as it supposed to.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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loooove this FORUM,!

after reading the walk through and seeing the pics it took me 12 minutes to rip. it all apart, stick. in the new switches and reassemble...

is GREAT knowing that prying on something plastic will be OK.. based on everyone's else experience... otherwise it would have taken alot more time going super slow and "discovering" as you go.. nerve-wracking.. but with this forum.. I. always know what to expect.

Thanx to ALL especially the guy who posted the pics!

Ya know.. all in all.. this little truck is really well put together! I'm loving it more and more.

Kyrojoe in mexico
 

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I am going to try this. Ordered the switches, for 15 Dollars, it is worth a try.
 

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Just fixed mine today. The driver bulb would never come on. Replaced it, and now it works. Slowly fixing all of the issues on this thing.
 

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As I noted earlier, sometimes it is just the bulb, so try that first. But those failing microswitches are enough of a known problem that the mods/admins in all their great wisdom, decided to make this a sticky, even before this :) :

 

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simple answer. The left button is bad in map light. Light only works if you press it. No need to replace whole assembly. It’s common on left side. Just take apart and replace switch/ button.. I went to junkyard and I just used rite side
 

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... It turns out all I needed to do was take mine apart and play with the contact pins in the switch and they began working again. They just got loose with time and bending them back into position to make sure they had good contact fixed the issue with no need to buy anything.

I just wanted to throw this solution in here in case I can save someone the hassle and cash of ordering a new switch.
I don't see how the switches come apart, but getting inside them would be great if possible. This is such a dumb design overall given how common it is.
 

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I take it back. Now neither will come on unless a door is opened.

While on, pressing a button turns that light off. Once the timer ends for the dome light, neither switch will ever manually turn on a light.
 

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New switches, same as before: dome light function works when you open a door but the map light function never works.

The switches work, because while the dome light is on, the switches will turn the light OFF. After the dome function automatically turns off, the switches do nothing. It's as if the whole thing is wired wrong.

What madness is this?
 

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Make sure all (three, IIRC) prongs for the microswitches are cleaned and rust free. Don't ask me how one ended up slightly rusty (or with some sort of foreign patina) up there, but I had to carefully scrape it off with fine sandpaper.

Also make sure they're all inserted properly.

Finally, mine wouldn't work right until I reinserted the original screws for the housing, after a brief moment of unparliamentary language.
149591
 

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Yeah one of the screws is needed to complete ground for the dome light function. All pins are rust free. They just aren't thick enough to make contact with any of my switches. Horrible design.

My '06 Accord has a similar issue. I'll wind up buying new fixtures for both. The Pilot's a little different in that the dome / door switch it seperate (in the dash) whereas it's part of the map light fixture on an Accord. But really ... how often do Honda dash switches go bad?


I have some idea for how modify these things so they cease to become a problem. Something like cutting down small blade-type fuses to create new and beefier pins, with wires soldered to them reaching back to the fixture's contacts (pushed out and away).

Or perhaps just try to flow a little solder onto the existing pins to thicken them up a touch. The original pins appear to just barely flow current to begin with, and as soon as they become even a tiny bit pitted, it's over. Compound that with whatever limitations the switches have. I keep reading those can be opened up ... I have yet to see how.
 
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