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I just attempted to drain the ATF on my 2012 Honda Pilot after driving it around until it was up to operating temp. Using the same 3/8" ratchet wrench that I used to tighten it last d&r, I could not loosen it no matter how hard I tried.

So I put the killer 30" handle torque wrench on it using a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. I don't use a torque wrench to tighten oil, atf, diff fill bolts as 33-35 ft-lbs to me is "good and tight" using my usual 10" handle ratchet handle. Never had a leak, and never had a problem unwinding plugs on other cars, most of which use copper crush washers. Is there something about these Honda aluminum crush washers or the mating surfaces that takes a lot more torque to break them free than to tighten them?

Out of curiousity, I set the torque wrench with the loooong handle for 30 ft-lbs for my first attempt at loosening the drain bolt. click. Expected. Up to 35. click. Not surprised. So long story short ... rinse and repeat in 5 pound increments until I finally got to 90 ft-lbs! ... click! WTF? That's lug nut level torque.

I about decided to stop at that point and give the job to a real mechanic so he'd have to deal with whatever broke. I thought maybe corrosion was causing it and heating the area around the plug with a torch would help break it free. But corrosion on a thread submerged in oil made no sense so I decided instead to put a short 3/8 extension in the plug and whack it a couple times with a hammer. I also went in the tightening direction at the 90 ft-lb setting. Nothing moved. I set the torque wrench to 95 ft-lbs and figured whatever the consequences, the plug had to come out one way or the other eventually unless I was willing to suck the fluid out the dipstick tube for future changes.

At 100 ft-lbs the plug finally let go. For grins I tested the fill plug loosening torque since it's always a bear for some reason and the wrench was set at 105 ft-lbs before it let loose. Just to make sure my torque wrench cal wasn't toast, I did a quick and dirty recal using weights and it was on the money.

Never seen this before ... anybody? Needless to say I'll be tightening fluid drain and fill plugs with a torque wrench on the Pilot or anything else using these aluminum crush washers from now on. To me they don't seem to crush like the GM and Nissan copper ones that are like thin folded over copper and actually crush. The aluminum ones look like solid washers to me.
 

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I experience the same thing. The first time I ever removed the factory-tightened plug I was surprised at how tight it was. After draining, I replaced the plug with new washer and tightened using a torque wrench at 30 ft-lbs. When I did it again, it again felt more like 80+. I expect it now so I just go under there like a gorilla and bust the thing off.
 

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2008 Piot SE FWD, 2015 Pilot LX 4WD. 2005 GSX-R1000
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I've done several d&f's on our 08, and 15's.
It's obviously from some degree of galvanic corrosion with the metals.
The drain plug is usually easier to get out than that top fill plug!
I re-use the washers (so far).
If you get some copper based anti seize paste, and put a liberal, amount, (actually, you should use a 'generous' amount - I hate that word!) on the threads, washer, under the bolt/plug head, etc. It should come off Way easier the next time.
IMHO, YMMV
 

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Seems to be typical for everything bolting into aluminum. I wouldn't over think it. I reuse the old crush washer. As it meets the surface, center the washer around the bolt. Since using a regular size 3/8 ratchet, just make sure the bolt is snug (it's an inanimate object). If fearing it's not tight to the right degree, then a torque wrench may be needed. I've never sprung a leak, reusing oil or ATF crush washers..... ever.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Has it been mentioned there's a poll for that? :) Vote!

 
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