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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I thought I would give a writeup and post some pictures of my passenger rear wheel bearing replacement I did today. I just turned 175k, and have been hearing noise from the right rear for a few weeks, and it was clearly a wheel bearing. I did not want to take the whole knuckle out and have it pressed out, so I bought a 23 piece Bearing and Hub puller kit off Ebay, and a slide hammer set. I've rented the latter a number of times from Oreilly (free), figured I should just pony up and buy one myself. I bought the Timken 510050 bearing, and Dorman 930450 Hub. Both were about $55 delivered. Even with the one time tool purchase, much cheaper than having a shop do it. I may just go ahead and do the other rear, possibly even the fronts when I get to 200k and do the struts.

The job should take 3 hours or less for the rear, I am guessing the fronts would be easier, as it takes less time to remove the Outer CV axle from the front. The Steps are:

Remove wheel and loosen the castle nut while the parking brake is on.

Release parking brake and remove caliper bracket and hang somewhere out of the way - zipties to spring in my case. Remove rotor.

Use slide hammer with hub attachment to remove the hub. This took at least 20-30 hard raps. Fortunately I am not in the snow/rust belt, so YMMV.

Instead of popping the upper arm ball joint, I removed the inside bolt. You'll need a separate jack to support/lift underneath the spring perch to relieve pressure.

ABS sensor brackets - I removed the 10mm bolts from the two brackets to give it some slack for the next step. There is no need to remove the ABS sensor.

Removed Flange bolt that connect lower arm B and the knuckle. This allows you to swing the knuckle down and out to remove the rear CV axle.

After the CV axle was removed, I moved the knuckle back and loosely inserted the two bolts previously removed, so the knuckle was level and sturdy.

The rest was pressed off on the vehicle, as seen in each picture, with info for each picture:

01 - Specialty tools ordered. I think it was roughly $60 for the Bearing and Hub kit, and $70 for the slide hammer kit. Make sure you use plenty of grease on the threads and washers while using to avoid stripping. I used SuperLube.

02 - Find the fight size that fits just outside the outer edge on the knuckle.

03 - Make sure you find a plate that touches the outer bearing and not the knuckle - I used the #18 in the kit.

04 - It was somewhat tight removing the bearing, but really didn't need more force than the 1/2 breaker bar would deliver. It got easier half way out. This is what it looked like after coming off fully.

05 - Pressing the bearing in, find a plate that touches outer part of bearing. I think I used the #18 again. It went it a bit easier than coming out.

06 - Find a plate that touches the ridge inside the knuckle. Can't remember which one I used, one that barely fit in there.

07 - Popped the circlip back in, and it is done. There is no magnetic encoder on the bearing, so I put the rubberized piece on the bearing to the outside, as the existing bearing had the metallic side on the inboard. I tossed the old hub, so didn't bother cutting off the old race.

08 - The new Hub pressed in easily. Any plate will work on the outside.

09 - Make sure you use a plate that ONLY touches the inner race on the new bearing. The hub will never protrude all the way through, so no need for the cups. You'll see on picture 11.

10 - All done on the outside. Didn't have to touch the parking brakes or anything else.

11 - Inside all done. You'll see the ABS sensor, it picks up off the ring on the CV axle.


This is what I came up with after reading the Service Manual, and figured out what did, and didn't have to be done to remove the CV axle.

That's it. I researched a lot on Youtube, etc. to figure out which tools to buy, how to remove, etc. but did not find anything specific to the Pilots.

I hope this helps in case anyone else wants to tackle this DIY themselves.
 

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Thanks -so pressing it in you used the inner race only? Is there a Honda specialty tool that allows the use of the outer race?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It was pretty clear that I used a plate from the kit I bought, so yes, I guess that would be the specialty tool. When pressing the bearing out/in you want a plate that is large enough to touch the outer race, and when you are pressing the Hub in, you want a plate large enough to touch the inner race only.
 

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It was pretty clear that I used a plate from the kit I bought, so yes, I guess that would be the specialty tool. When pressing the bearing out/in you want a plate that is large enough to touch the outer race, and when you are pressing the Hub in, you want a plate large enough to touch the inner race only.
Gotcha - I must have misread, I saw the pic and lost connection with your 09 description . Thanks again for posing this.
 

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This is a lifesaver!!! My 2007 EX-L is at 130k miles and I am about to replace driver's side rear knuckle (snapped at shock attachment leg - passenger side rear snapped same way/place 2.5 years ago @ 114k miles). So, in addition to replacing DSR knuckle (the only place I could locate was at dealer @wholesale), I am replacing DSR hub and bearing, the rear rotors, pads, parking brakes, shocks, and upper control arms (hope to address camber issue with adjustables) on both sides, and the DSR abs sensor if necessary. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why the National bearing (#510050) I bought doesn't have a magnetic ring and have been trying to figure out if maybe the abs sensor picked up on the axle instead of the bearing (especially because the sensor sits so far back in the knuckle). I also picked up a Orion slide hammer set and bearing press set. With your detailed post (and all the other research I have and the service manual), I am all set!

And of course, I just changed the engine air filter yesterday and saw that the fresh air intake hose is cracked; so I will be replacing that today as well.
 
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This is a lifesaver!!! My 2007 EX-L is at 130k miles and I am about to replace driver's side rear knuckle (snapped at shock attachment leg - passenger side rear snapped same way/place 2.5 years ago @ 114k miles). So, in addition to replacing DSR knuckle (the only place I could locate was at dealer @wholesale), I am replacing DSR hub and bearing, the rear rotors, pads, parking brakes, shocks, and upper control arms (hope to address camber issue with adjustables) on both sides, and the DSR abs sensor if necessary. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why the National bearing (#510050) I bought doesn't have a magnetic ring and have been trying to figure out if maybe the abs sensor picked up on the axle instead of the bearing (especially because the sensor sits so far back in the knuckle). I also picked up a Orion slide hammer set and bearing press set. With your detailed post (and all the other research I have and the service manual), I am all set!
Wonder how common knuckle cracking is on these Pilots....over torqued bolts? pot holes? Rust? Perhaps it saved you the effort to remove a rusted solid hub bearing too
 

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Wonder how common knuckle cracking is on these Pilots....over torqued bolts? pot holes? Rust? Perhaps it saved you the effort to remove a rusted solid hub bearing too
I didn't think to check TSBs but I live in the Northeast so lots of snow and salt and rust and pot holes. Unfortunately I still have to pull the old hub to get the one-piece backing plate for the parking brake. There is no aftermarket backing plate I could find and Honda has discontinued them and I could only find a few dealers with OEM in stock at $85 plus shipping.
 

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I didn't think to check TSBs but I live in the Northeast so lots of snow and salt and rust and pot holes. Unfortunately I still have to pull the old hub to get the one-piece backing plate for the parking brake. There is no aftermarket backing plate I could find and Honda has discontinued them and I could only find a few dealers with OEM in stock at $85 plus shipping.
That’s unfortunate to hear another replacement part is discontinued as mine is a 2004
 

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That’s unfortunate to hear another replacement part is discontinued as mine is a 2004
Hmm, maybe they don't want us to keep these vehicles running for 15-20 years after all . . . . 🤔🤣
 
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And of course, I just changed the engine air filter yesterday and saw that the fresh air intake hose is cracked; so I will be replacing that today as well.
Post a pic of your old cracked one when you take it off, to add to the PIloteers gallery of cracked air intake tube collection. :D
 

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Didnt know such a wall of fame existed. Mine broke right at the connection. Odd! 20210404_212419.jpg
 

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Dammit! I just swapped mine out yesterday, but didn't take pics. Of course, I am bad about memorializing things in photo form in all areas, not just this.
 

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Man, what a wasted opportunity for instant fame around here. Make it up to us by memorializing the next nasty failed part you pull.
 

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Here's the failed knuckle!
 

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20210418_161224.jpg
 

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Nastay. :D

Don't suppose you have an "after" shot of the shiny new replacement?
 

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These are the best I have. I had to load brake backing plate onto knuckle before pressing hub into bearing but one of the backing plate nuts was totally seized and would not respond to WD40, breaker bar, impact wrench or heat. So I slipped on fully documenting. As an aside, slide hammering the old hub out to get to the plate and pressing the new bearing and hub in were the easiest parts of the job!
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