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Did my first oil & filter change this week, at just over 5000 miles. Oil drain plug had NO crush washer on it, & yes, I checked in the drain pan, & it did not remain on the oil pan. It wasn't leaking, but I installed a crush washer when installing the drain plug. The oil filter is not the easiest to get to, & it's impossible to get a typical oil filter wrench on it. A previous post recommended removing the RF wheel. I just turned the steering wheel all the way to right & got the job done, but next oil change will occur when I rotate tires, so as to have access with that RF wheel removed. I used a large pair of channellock pliers to remove the OEM filter & I was surprised as to how easily the case of the filter distorted. I elected to use a Honda OEM oil filter & after installing it, I went online for guidance on cutting open the old filter for examination. By chance, I found an oil filter comparison video & it found the Fram filters to be the absolute worst. Guess who makes the Honda OEM filters? Honeywell, who also makes the Fram filters. Wix & NAPA gold filters rated the highest, so I replaced the Honda OEM filter with a Wix XP filter. Again, the Honda filter distorted badly on removal, due to the really thin shell, & I'm careful not to over tighten when installing filters. Here's the youtube video:
 

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Just like tires, there are not a lot of companies who actually make oil filters. The companies who do the manufacturing build the filter to the specs provided. Here is some info on manufacturers...

Currently Fram/Champion and Wix/Purolator/Mann+Hummel seem to be the only two major oil-filter manufacturers in the USA, making aftermarket, OEM, and third-party-branded oil filters. Mann is a German company and owner of Purolator and WIX, making them German companies as well. Donaldson and Baldwin are two of the other USA oil-filter manufacturers. Some of the top Japanese oil filter manufacturers are Denso, Tokyo Roki, SPK, and Nitto Kogyo.
 

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Did my first oil & filter change this week, at just over 5000 miles. Oil drain plug had NO crush washer on it, & yes, I checked in the drain pan, & it did not remain on the oil pan. It wasn't leaking, but I installed a crush washer when installing the drain plug. The oil filter is not the easiest to get to, & it's impossible to get a typical oil filter wrench on it. A previous post recommended removing the RF wheel. I just turned the steering wheel all the way to right & got the job done, but next oil change will occur when I rotate tires, so as to have access with that RF wheel removed. I used a large pair of channellock pliers to remove the OEM filter & I was surprised as to how easily the case of the filter distorted. I elected to use a Honda OEM oil filter & after installing it, I went online for guidance on cutting open the old filter for examination. By chance, I found an oil filter comparison video & it found the Fram filters to be the absolute worst. Guess who makes the Honda OEM filters? Honeywell, who also makes the Fram filters. Wix & NAPA gold filters rated the highest, so I replaced the Honda OEM filter with a Wix XP filter. Again, the Honda filter distorted badly on removal, due to the really thin shell, & I'm careful not to over tighten when installing filters. Here's the youtube video:

Put a large pair of channel locks on just about any oil filter, twist it to remove the filter, and I will almost guarantee you end up crushing it! The filter cases are just a thin piece of metal, not a thick reinforced case. I hope you just hand tighten the filter as recommended, and don't use your channel locks for that also. There are specific filter removal tools that grab the bottom of the filter and work well with no distortion on the filter.

The Fram video you posted has to be several years old by now (at least 5 or 6) since those filters have been greatly improved. Yes, back around 2010 or so they did have problems. Now a days, Fram Ultra filter is considered to be one of the best available. If you really want to learn more, check out Bob Is The Oil Guy forum for in depth discussions about oil, filters, maintenance, etc.

Bob Is The Oil Guy

Here is the link to just their discussion regarding oil filters. Note there is one near the top about the Fram filters and how they are now regarded as a good filter.

Oil Filter Discussions

If the Honda OEM filter is made by Honeywell who makes Fram, do you really think Honda would recommend a filter change every other oil change if the filter was so bad???? You could be looking at 10000-15000 miles or more on that filter if you follow the maintenance minder in many instances.

Curious what you MM showed for oil life when you changed the oil. I changed mine at 5000 (60 percent oil life remaining according to the MM) miles. I put on a new old stock Honda A01 filter which is supposed to be superior to the AO2 and even the newer filter that Honda has. I have a supply of 5 more AO1 filters and will use those before switching to a Fram Ultra.

I did not reset my MM at that time and will follow it from now on. I just hit 7000 miles and I am still showing 30 percent oil life. I will reset it when I do the oil change, filter, and tire rotation that is coming up in the next two months or so. I will be changing the oil filter every oil change which I anticipate to be around 8000-9000 miles from now on.
 

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Yes, I just hand tighten. I had the oil filter wrench that fits on the bottom of the filter, but there isn't clearance to attach a ratchet(3/8) or power handle. I have a couple of the strap type filter wrenches, but since I was just throwing away the old filter, the channellocks worked just fine. Yeah, I read that the A01 filter was a better product than the A02, but hard to find. I'll stick with Wix. My oil life was showing 20% - I had done a lot of short hop driving.
 

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Fram is an excellent filter. I use Fram TG religiously on my CRV. I plan to have my first oil change done on the Pilot at the dealership because I want them to fix my fuel door misalignment and look into my hood shaking like crazy at highway speeds. After that I will be using Fram XG on the Pilot. Check out bobistheoilguy.com, many people use Fram filters religiously. I do understand your concern about the OEM filter, but I'm sure it was vastly over tightened from the factory. Shoot, that's a basic Fram PH filter and Honda wants you to change it every other oil change. Run an XG filter and you will be happy.
 

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Fram is an excellent filter. I use Fram TG religiously on my CRV. I plan to have my first oil change done on the Pilot at the dealership because I want them to fix my fuel door misalignment and look into my hood shaking like crazy at highway speeds. After that I will be using Fram XG on the Pilot. Check out bobistheoilguy.com, many people use Fram filters religiously. I do understand your concern about the OEM filter, but I'm sure it was vastly over tightened from the factory. Shoot, that's a basic Fram PH filter and Honda wants you to change it every other oil change. Run an XG filter and you will be happy.

I would be interested to hear what you are told regarding the hood shaking. I have brought my 2017 Pilot in twice for this, it can be frigging scary at 80 mph with wind gusts or head winds. I was told they put some pads in near the front the first time, but that hasn't done anything. Last time I was told the metal is so thin that it is going to flex/shimmy/jump due to the design. Not really what I wanted to hear.
 

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In regards to filters I agree the cheaper end frame are garbage from my tear downs made very poorly. I have Used the Fram Tough guard and the synthetic filter in the past and they seem to made a bit better. The AMSOIL filter was good and I've used many different ones over the years. If I felt like spending the money I would use AMSOIL oil and filter but Mobil 1 Is good so I use there oil and filters. Plus I stocked up because right now I can get $17 back from Mobil when purchasing oil and filter and Advance Auto Parts has them on sale 35.99 for both. Cant beat that deal.
 

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I use those oil filter pliers and love them. I tired the ones one with one of the claws being larger but didn't like them as much. I got through the well losses then go back under to get off. I used the bag method last time but When I ordered a bunch of fluids I picked up the oil deflector to se how well it works. I can update after its first use.
 

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Did my first oil & filter change this week, at just over 5000 miles. Oil drain plug had NO crush washer on it, & yes, I checked in the drain pan, & it did not remain on the oil pan. It wasn't leaking, but I installed a crush washer when installing the drain plug. The oil filter is not the easiest to get to, & it's impossible to get a typical oil filter wrench on it. A previous post recommended removing the RF wheel. I just turned the steering wheel all the way to right & got the job done, but next oil change will occur when I rotate tires, so as to have access with that RF wheel removed. I used a large pair of channellock pliers to remove the OEM filter & I was surprised as to how easily the case of the filter distorted. I elected to use a Honda OEM oil filter & after installing it, I went online for guidance on cutting open the old filter for examination. By chance, I found an oil filter comparison video & it found the Fram filters to be the absolute worst. Guess who makes the Honda OEM filters? Honeywell, who also makes the Fram filters. Wix & NAPA gold filters rated the highest, so I replaced the Honda OEM filter with a Wix XP filter. Again, the Honda filter distorted badly on removal, due to the really thin shell, & I'm careful not to over tighten when installing filters. Here's the youtube video:
Channellock actually makes an oil pliers
 

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I'm sticking with Mobil 1 filters (made by Champion Industries). I disliked the few Frams I used in the recent past--difficult to remove since that grippy black rubber on the bottom would slip inside my filter wrenches, and I'd have to partly crush the filters to get them off by whatever means possible (and often at an odd angle since the filters are in places not accessible by any "banded" wrench). Back to Mobil 1, zero issues, the filter wrenches fit the end like a glove.
 

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I would be interested to hear what you are told regarding the hood shaking. I have brought my 2017 Pilot in twice for this, it can be frigging scary at 80 mph with wind gusts or head winds. I was told they put some pads in near the front the first time, but that hasn't done anything. Last time I was told the metal is so thin that it is going to flex/shimmy/jump due to the design. Not really what I wanted to hear.
Not to go on a side track in this thread but here is the TSB and fix for the hood issue. It isn't just the front stops that needs to be looked at.
 

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