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DIY (J35A4) timing belt replacement

279908 Views 282 Replies 86 Participants Last post by  sparkydave
2004 Pilot timing belt DYI
(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Parts List:
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

Looking from above showing the accessory belts removed along with the motor mount.

Side view showing same including the lower cover

Crank pulley bolt removal (loosen the bolt before removing the motor mount!)

Close up

Lower cover showing crank end and lower part of the dipstick tube (hydraulic tensioner can be seen behind VTEC solenoid) (crank timing mark can also be seen)

Upper and lower covers removed (12mm power steering adjuster nut shown)

Lower cover removed (rubber plug in the dipstick opening to prevent trash from falling in)

Different angle to show both 14mm pulley bolts
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· Registered
Home of the 306k 2012 V6 Honda Crosstour
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Here are some torque specs I found, not sure if anyone else already posted this, found this on an online source for repair manuals.

Auto tensioner mount bolt 19 ft-lbs
Camshaft sprocket center bolt (1) 67 ft-lbs
Camshaft pulley bolt 181 ft-lbs

Engine mount bracket (front)
10 X 1.25 mm bolts 33 ft lbs
6 X 1.0 bolt (2) 106 inch lbs

Engine side mount bracket
10 X 1.25 mm bolts (3) 33 ft lbs
12 X 1.25 mm bolt 40 ft lbs

Idler pulley bolt 33 ft lbs
Power steering pump lock nut 17 ft lbs
Power steering pump mount bolt 17 ft lbs

Auto tensioner maintenance bolt 17 inch lbs
dipstick and tube (4) 106 inch lbs
Ground cable bolt 106 inch lbs
Lower engine splash sheild bolt 106 inch lbs
Timing belt cover bolts 106 inch lbs
Water pump bolts 106 inch lbs

(1) Apply engine oil to threads
(2) Tighten bolt to 106 inch pounds
(3) Tighten these bolts first
(4) Use new O-ring

Possible but do not bother taking your vehicle to the dentist because insurance doesn't cover it.
There could be some confusion on this post. The tensioner bolt torque listed here is not for the timing belt. 19lbs will break a 10mm bolt. 10mm bolts are 9ft lbs.

· Registered
152 Posts
There could be some confusion on this post. The tensioner bolt torque listed here is not for the timing belt. 19lbs will break a 10mm bolt. 10mm bolts are 9ft lbs.
I am not real sure, it is just what I had found. I found a thing or two seemingly "off" but I am no expert.

Another thing - that post had to get moderator approval before posting, I wonder what tripped that off? Was it the link?

Nothing else so far has triggered "moderator approval." Either way, just trying to not screw up my welcome right off the bat.

· Registered
215 Posts
I just did my 2015 Pilot. This and various Youtube videos were very useful. Thought I'd add my observations:

The Lisle heavy mass impact socket is well worth it. That and even a mediocre impact wrench will break the crank pulley bolt free with no sweat.

The upper motor mount that attaches to the body has one bolt that's a pain to get to. You can see it, and you can even reach it with lots of extensions and a socket. Coming out isn't too bad, but going back in, it was hard to get the bolt started.

When you pull the pin on the timing belt tensioner, use Vice Grips and do it fast. I pulled it with my finger. Once the one end was free, it proceeded to extend and bent the pin so it was never coming out. That took some fiddling and careful use of the Dremel to get it the rest of it out.

Let it idle and let it get up to temperature IN YOUR DRIVEWAY after refilling the coolant. I filled it, took it for a test drive, turned the heater on high to make sure the heater valve was opened, and after a short distance, the temperature went above normal and there was no heat. Uh oh. Pulled over, shut off the engine, and actually heard burping noises from the heater core. Temperature came back down, but I didn't think to bring the coolant bottle and funnel with me to top off the radiator.
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