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There is no way he got OEM parts for that price, unless he is getting them at dealer cost. A lot of people buy the Aisin kit and call it "OEM" if they buy a part that is manufactured by the same supplier as OEM. This is what most people are installing, only the bolts are truly OEM Honda branded, but the Aisin kit uses parts that the OEM uses.

$164.00 - Aisin TKH002 from Rock Auto
$ 22.00 - Bando 6PK2135 Belt from Amazon (B000CMCNJC)
$ 8.42 - Bolt Timing Belt Adjuster (4513-RCA-A01) OEM
$ 6.50 - Bolt Timing Belt Idler (14551-RCA-A01) OEM
$ 2.70 - QTY (2) Bolt Flange (6X30) for tensioner (95801-06030-07) OEM
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$205 plus shipping, and applicable taxes.
 

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This could be a great supplement for any first time DYI timing belt people. I love Eric the Car Guy videos so I am a bit biased. Also, this is J series V6 is in an Accord, but for all intents and purposes he motors are basically the same (especially in how the actual timing belt gets removed/installed). The splash guards, the motor mount, maybe the PS pump are different, but once those are out of the way, it should be near identical.
 

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For another resource, I am a huge fan of South Main Auto... this is a great video I used for guidance when doing my timing belt.

 
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HI everyone- I need an opinion, I have 2005 with 120K, I replaced the timing belt in 2012 based on the recommended 7 years even though it was way below the 105K limit back then, now its 8 years later, do you think I should replace the timimg belt again? I put on less than 5K a year (just drive to the commuter rail into the city) even less now with the pandemic. if the belt breaks while the engine is running does it ruin the engine? hoping I can hold onto it for another 10 years, it looks almost brand new, and I have put in two radiators so far. thanks and happy holidays!
 

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So "yes" and "yes" and see the replies in your other similar post, and happy holidays to you, too.
 

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HI everyone- I need an opinion, I have 2005 with 120K, I replaced the timing belt in 2012 based on the recommended 7 years even though it was way below the 105K limit back then, now its 8 years later, do you think I should replace the timimg belt again? I put on less than 5K a year (just drive to the commuter rail into the city) even less now with the pandemic. if the belt breaks while the engine is running does it ruin the engine? hoping I can hold onto it for another 10 years, it looks almost brand new, and I have put in two radiators so far. thanks and happy holidays!
Me personally, since I DIY, I'd go in to replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner. Inspect everything else.
 

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Replace belt and tensioner and inspect things. Who knows, you might find the timing off by one tooth (current Acura TL job).
Bank 2
143086

Bank 1
143087

Should run better when I'm done.
 

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Also caused by cavitation? View attachment 143100
This is why you want to line up timing marks and never rely just on counting the teeth on the belt. Never assume the last job was done correctly.
Sometimes the came can spring forward throwing it off.
 
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Just checking in to say what a huge help this old (though incredibly useful!) thread has been. I used it the first time I changed my timing belt years ago, and referred to it again when it came time to change the timing belt on my 2005 Pilot for the third time at 335K miles.

When I changed it previously, my timing marks did not move at all when I removed the hydraulic tensioner. This time however, the rear cam "jumped" and the timing mark moved clockwise about 7-8 teeth. After an initial period of freaking out, I went back and referred to this thread ... where I see that this is a very common occurrence due to the valve spring pressure causing a valve to shut and roll the cam forward off its lobe. I just rotated it back (counterclockwise) carefully, installed the new timing belt, double and triple checked my timing marks and all was well.

Must have just gotten lucky the first time :)

Chris
Third time at 355K? My service manual says to replace it a second time at 168K. I thought that was too soon after replacing it at 105,000. When did you replace it a second time?
 

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Third time at 355K? My service manual says to replace it a second time at 168K. I thought that was too soon after replacing it at 105,000. When did you replace it a second time?
I've been old school on this, doing them at 90k then 180k. When it comes to a 3rd it's just a toss up because something will likely be needed before 90-105k paases. My 3rd came early at 251k due to oil pump and pan leaks I could no longer ignore. At this point I'm just buying time, getting as many miles out of it as possible.
 

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Third time at 355K? My service manual says to replace it a second time at 168K. I thought that was too soon after replacing it at 105,000. When did you replace it a second time?
I’ve been doing it roughly every 100K or so. I did the second one at about 225K. I’ll probably do it next when she hits 450K (she’s at around 388K now).

Fingers crossed. :)

Chris
 

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Excellent thread! Can somebody please post the torque settings?
Here are some torque specs I found, not sure if anyone else already posted this, found this on an online source for repair manuals. Cardiagn.com

Auto tensioner mount bolt 19 ft-lbs
Camshaft sprocket center bolt (1) 67 ft-lbs
Camshaft pulley bolt 181 ft-lbs

Engine mount bracket (front)
10 X 1.25 mm bolts 33 ft lbs
6 X 1.0 bolt (2) 106 inch lbs

Engine side mount bracket
10 X 1.25 mm bolts (3) 33 ft lbs
12 X 1.25 mm bolt 40 ft lbs

Idler pulley bolt 33 ft lbs
Power steering pump lock nut 17 ft lbs
Power steering pump mount bolt 17 ft lbs

Auto tensioner maintenance bolt 17 inch lbs
dipstick and tube (4) 106 inch lbs
Ground cable bolt 106 inch lbs
Lower engine splash sheild bolt 106 inch lbs
Timing belt cover bolts 106 inch lbs
Water pump bolts 106 inch lbs

(1) Apply engine oil to threads
(2) Tighten bolt to 106 inch pounds
(3) Tighten these bolts first
(4) Use new O-ring

Also caused by cavitation? View attachment 143100
Possible but do not bother taking your vehicle to the dentist because insurance doesn't cover it.
 
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