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Discussion Starter #1
I installed the rear view camera in my Pilot this past weekend. Overall, it took about 11 hours over 2 days. But, this should be no more than an 8 hour job for the casual DIY’er even if you work slowly and deliberately. Before you read further, as in any DIY project, there is always the possibility of injury to yourself or damage to your car. I am not responsible for any injury or damage that arises from you attempting this installation yourself should you follow any of my advice.

The rear view camera comes as 2 separate parts – the camera kit itself is 08A21-2D1-100 and the attachment kit sold separately is 08B21-S9V-100. They cost about $800 retail or $600 through one of the various parts discounters on the internet.

Before you begin the install, check to make sure you have all the parts.

Tools: Most of the tools listed are fairly standard. I don’t know what a T-handle wrench or diagonal cutters are, but missing these tools didn’t hamper my installation. There are a couple of tools which you may not have that are essential to this job. First is the clip removal tool. This is a must have. I wasted about 2 hours trying to remove a particularly inaccessible clip before I broke down and went and bought one. Once I had the clip removal tool, I popped off that clip in 5 seconds. The other tool is the angle phillips screwdriver. There is only 1 screw you use it on (the right screw for the rear camera). Because the camera is mounted immediately next to one of the reverse lights, you cannot access that screw with a regular straight screwdriver.

Although the instructions specify metric sized drill bits, I didn’t have any and could not find a store that sold any. I used the closest standard sized drill bits which worked fine. For each size, the standards were a bit smaller, but it did not affect the installation. Here are the sizes I used:

3mm – used 1/8”
7mm – used 1/4”
8mm – used 5/16”
10mm – used 3/8”
14mm – used 1/2”

The instructions by Honda are comprehensive. Rather than reiterating every step, I will just point out issues in my install. The steps noted corresponds to the steps in the Honda Installation Instructions.
 

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Steps 3 and 4 – Instructions say “release the 2 retaining tabs…” It is not really possible to access these tabs as they are recessed (see blurry picture below). I found that I was able to get all the tailgate trim off simply buy pulling them from the edge along the long side.
 

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Step 6 – The tailgate rear trim came out pretty easily. Notice where the 11 clips are and pull in a careful, but firm fashion and the panel should pop right out. You may find some clips that remain stuck to the metal tailgate instead of on the trim panel. Use the “clip removal tool” to pull these clips out and just slide them back into the hole on the trim panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Step 10 – There are 7 nuts. These are the small brass nuts next to the back up light connectors. There is another one in the middle of the tailgate which is hard to see, but accessible through a hole. You will need a socket extension to reach some of these nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Step 11 – Be very careful when removing the rear license panel trim. It is made of thin plastic that will easily crack if you pull on it too hard. Once you take out the 7 nuts in step 10, there are only 4 white plastic clips that you need to squeeze to pop the panel off. The 2 clips on the side are easily accessible.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
However, the 2 clips in the middle are hidden by a metal plate (white dots show where the clips are behind the metal plate).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you do not have the clip removal tool, do yourself a favor and go buy one right now. I wasted about 2 hours trying to pop off these clips before I went out and bought the clip removal tool. Once I had that tool, I was able to pop off the 2 middle clips and have the rear license trim panel out in 10 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Step 13 – Some of the clips might not pop off with the trim panel. Use the clip removal tool to pull the clip out and attach it to the trim panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Step 17 – When I took the seat belt anchor bolt off, all the washers and bushings fell out. Since I didn’t know what order they were supposed to be in, I had to take out the bolt from the left side to use as a reference. Save yourself from this hassle by wrapping a piece of tape around the end of the bolt. This is actually a picture of the door seat belt anchor bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Step 19 – the door sill pops off easily by just pulling along the long edge. I don’t know what the deal is with prying up on the retaining tabs, but I was never able to jam anything in there that allowed me to pry the retaining tabs on any of these interior panels.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Step 21 – all the screws in this step are the same size self tapping screws except for the screw in the middle just inside of the armrest. That screw was longer than all the others and had a rounded top. Here’s the one odd sized screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Step 22 – the right rear side panel was a bit tricky to get out. I started pulling from the very rear top edge. There really aren’t that many clips holding it. There is actually an accessible tab here that you can push to release. Before you pull the panel off, remember where and how the seatbelts are threaded through the panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Step 26 – instructions again state that you should release the clips. Again, I have no idea how you can access those clips to release them. All I did was to pull straight back and this rear seat frame cover came off pretty easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Step 27 – be careful with this front seat frame cover as it is much thinner than the rear panel. I had somewhat of a hard time getting it off and ultimately cracked it. Because it is low and not very noticeable, I don’t plan on replacing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Step 30 – center console lower panel came off easily. I just started pulling from the back end of the panel and moved towards the front of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Step 31 – carefully cut out the template. I recommend highlighting the holes for the rear license panel trim so you won’t accidentally drill the wrong holes on the wrong panel. I’m marking the rear license panel trim with a push pin.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Step 32 – ***BE CAREFUL*** when drilling the rear license panel trim. Because it is made of thin plastic, it seems to be quite fragile. As noted before, since I could not find any metric sized drill bits, I went with standard equivalents. The small 3mm (1/8”) pilot holes drilled easily. The larger holes 7mm (1/4”), 14mm (1/2”) were more difficult because my drill bits would catch the plastic as they penetrated the panel and a few times, it felt as if I was almost going to break the panel. The end result were not perfect circles, but that didn’t hinder the installation. Here’s a picture with the holes drilled sitting on top of the template.
 

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