Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tools & Parts:
Firestone "Coil-Rite" Air Bag Helper Springs Model: 4179
Neiko Titanium Step Drill Bit

Sockets Size used: 19mm (wheel lugs) 17mm (control arm), 14mm (sway bar & bumper bolt), 12mm (brake line).
Jack Stand, Jack and factory jack.
A Drill
A rubber mallet or hammer
WD-40 (soak all the bolts 1hr before the job)
Hex Wrench Kit

I took the stock measurement from ground to fender.
Before
Front Driver : 31.75"
Rear Driver: 31.625"
Front Pass: 31.625"
Rear Pass: 31.625
After
Front Driver : 31.75"
Rear Driver: 32.75" with min pressure
Front Pass: 31.625"
Rear Pass: 32.75" with min pressure

I'm not sure about the pressure in there at the mean time because my tire pressure gauge is out of battery.

Here you see how the factory jack is used to raise the car, and the jack support the rear end. The brick is optional but helpful if you have some around.


I got the control arm drop by a 17mm bolt, and the sway bar a 14mm bolt with the use of the second jack to held the control arm up a bit in order to remove the bolts.


I found it easy to remove the top sway bar bolt.


You'll need to remove the spring in order to have room to remove the 14mm bolt that hold the stop bumper. To remove the spring you use your feet to step on the control arm and push all the way toward the ground the spring will fall out.


Here you see where the stock bump stop made a mark on the control arm, I use this to guide my hole for the air line.


It's best to drill the a bit down to the right by 1/8 of an inche so it will line up with the air bag perfectly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Once you finish drill from the top, slight drill it from the bottom to give it a finish feels. I felt it with my hand it doesn't need a grommet.


Got the bag in place and bolts em back up.


I saw the other thread where he put the air valves by the gas door, I was original going to go that route but didn't have the time to remove the cover to get to it. So here's my better solution.

Driver side

Finish product!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,747 Posts
Looks good.:29:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
644 Posts
Very nice write up. Thanks for sharing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,747 Posts
I'm wondering where you run the air lines? Barely visible in the pics and the way it should be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, I'll try to take some photo how i run the air lines when i have a chance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks for the info!
BTW, to elevate the jack, it would be better to use lumber, 2 x 4s or 4 x 4s, than to use bricks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I finally took the plunge and bought this kit. We use our pilot for camping with a rocket box on top and bike rack on back and the rear definitely sags. Rear tire wear has always been a problem, even when the vehicle is not loaded.
HOWEVER, I want to warn people - the instructions with the kit leave out the necessity for removing the sway bar connector, as highlighted by @Im2C0ol. I'm half way into the project because I stripped both ends of the connector trying to remove it. I ended up cutting the bolt on the lower joint with a dremel. I'm starting the other side now, but I suspect those nuts will be rusted too. The bolt has an inner allen, which is what strips out. I'll probably be driving without the sway bar for a week - unless I find them cheap and quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Removing sway bar link

whew, I found the links online (Amazon) for under $20 each. There is another thread which discusses removal. I found the techniques suggested were the easiest - chisel off the 4 plastic nubs, then pull off the link. Then use vise grips to hold the one end while using a socket to remove the nut. In one instance, the nut still wouldn't budge so I tried to cut it off. Clearance prevented fully cutting the nut, but the cuts allowed the nut to finally move.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8xso1ajypwn0se/pilot_sway1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xpdng8mc69mjwsa/pilot_sway2.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/12lzx00mossaa37/pilot_sway3.jpg?dl=0
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
557 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Fuk! It's been three years since i installed these? The roads in my area has giganic pots holes and unven roads every turns. The last time i check and air it was 2.5 yrs ago. Now i just peak at it once a month to see if it lose air but it doesn't been holding it up and works great to this day. I appreciates having this helps extending the lift of the rear suspension and comfort. I been doing uber for about 1000miles on my pilot. Very happy with this investment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Just did this on my 06.

Tips:

1. Make sure to remove ABS cable bolts (2 bolts on rear side of sway arm 10 mm ). I didn't read the directions and went by this thread and yeah almost tore the cable

2. Sway bar connector - my bolt was rusted on. I used lots of penetrating fluid and a 5mm hex wrench on internal bolt. I used a wire brush to clean everything really well because I didn't want to strip the hex head in the bolt. Hopefully you can get yours off too

3. I bought a T off of amazon. Search Air Lift 21838. So happy I did, it's nice to only have to fill one connector.

4. I didn't need to deflate the bags per the instructions in the kit. The bag just slid right in.

I think that's it. I had to run to the store to grab a drill bit after spending 2 hours on the project. I only had one car so I had to reassemble it to grab drill bit. On round 2 it took me about 2 hours, but at that point I was a pro.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Old post I know but thought I'd add some info/pictures. I routed my hose a bit differently, Didn't take long, maybe a hour or so. I removed the rear drivers side wheel well liner to get access to the gas tank fill tube. I wanted the airbag fill to be in an easy to access place as well to be out of the weather (we have real winters up in canada). you can pop out the fill neck plastic, I cut off one of the tabs and then drilled a 5/16" hole in the plastic to fit the schrader valve. I then ran the line over the rear diff/subframe and joined it with a T fitting just above the rear diff. From here I routed the lines through the subframe and the lower rear control arms. I didn't like the idea of running a "loop" into the airbag so I added some 90* fittings. I didn't bother but if you wanted even longer life you could wrap all the air line woth split looming for any sort of anti-chafing.
 

Attachments

1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top