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Had a recent hail/thunderstorm and the car alarm goes off and the engine immobilzed. The remote fob doesn't disable it and the power door locks don't work. Tried various things i found online for disabling, like put key in door lock turn right twice left twice. Wondering if there a secret button on dash to reset? Tried pulling the sensor wire to the hood latch, havn't tried taking apart doors and rear hatch to pull those sensors. Currently battery is unhooked. Will pulling the horn fuse disable the alarm to allow me to start the car? if not which fuse should i pull? Alarm fuse not labelled.
 

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Page 118 in your Owner's Manual describes the immobilizer and the alarm system. The two systems are sort of related but offer separate functions and indicators.

-- The immobilizer reads the electronic code in the key to verify that it's a key that's registered to the car. The function is limited to the area around the ignition switch, where the system scans for keys that match. Without the correct key, you won't be able to start the engine.

Make sure your key set doesn't have other keys that include immobilizer capability. Doesn't need to be a Honda key. Safest to have just the correct Honda key and no other smart keys at all.

This system is active, and takes no special steps beyond using the correct key.

There is a dash indicator that shows when the key is first inserted, and goes out when a correct key is detected, indicator described on page 76..


-- The alarm system reports when the car is locked and a door hatch glass or hood is opened without a key. Accidental alarm deployment happens when a person is in the car while it's locked, and they open door. It also covers a situation where the car may be locked with windows down, and a door hatch glass or hood is opened. Or a window is broken and a door hatch glass hood is opened. You get the idea. The alarm is disabled by locking then unlocking the vehicle using the key in the driver's door lock, or using a registered remote transmitter.

Did you buy the car new? Has an accessory or aftermarket alarm been installed? Telltale is the key and the built-in Honda remote. An aftermarket alarm might have a separate fob.
 

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it was bought new with no added modifications. I've already read thru the manual looking for any fixes and tried both remote fobs and the valet key. The power windows and sunroof work but the power locks don't, either thru remote or from the door controls. The left indicator light is also constantly on. Green arrow on the dash lit and left exterior orange light on constant, not blinking
 

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It sounds like there may be damage to the wiring going to the door, and/or the control unit in the driver's door. The factory service manual offers a much more detailed description of the systems and functions than the Owner's Manual.

The diagnostic function test requires two keys, and the ability to read the diagnostic function codes from the vehicle. An inexpensive OBD-II reader is sufficient. Diagnostic codes B1127, B1128, and B1129 diagnostics are described, plus there's a troubleshooting matrix for the driver's door lock cylinder and switch. Door locks and security system description and diagnostics start at 22-182 in volume 2 of the FSM.

User Tahoefever recently shared a link and some pirate file downloads here in the forum for the 2012 FSM. The 2012 is functionally identical to our 2013 cars for this system, so use that guidance to help with your troubleshooting. The FSM term "HDS" refers to the Honda Diagnostic System, a fancier and more comprehensive version of an OBD-II reader for our purposes. For this exercise, just being able to read and clear the diagnostic trouble codes generated during the testing will be sufficient.
 

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All this from a hail storm? been through enough that my hood looks like an ak 47 used it for target practice. Nothing like this would effect cluster systems , The issues described sounds more serious than a damaged door situation here.

A pirate ? arr m8 ye got it right :)
 

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Had it towed to the honda dealership last thursday, haven't really heard much detail back. They said might be signs of water damage, tho they weren't specific, not like i driving thru rivers or anything. Said something about waiting on a new fusebox to be delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Maybe it got hit by lightning. ⚡
Just got a call today and they said it probably hit by lightning. Unfortunately that makes it a insurance thing and not a warranty thing. Oh well, waste of paying for that extended warranty. SMH
 

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If it was actually hit by lightning there'd be a very nasty burn scar on the car.

Instead, look hard at a wiring harness problem where the harness into the door is damaged. The telltales are the indicator in the mirror on constantly, which I'd be looking hard at by unplugging the related door harness to see if the condition clears. If the other (front and rear) indicators work correctly with the door harness unplugged, power is looping back into that circuit via a fault/short in the door harness.

The manuals link shared above by our mad and fevered lake tahoe pirate gives the harness connection points and also adds some guidance on the conductor breakouts. The end locations are indexed on sheet 22-18 as C751 and C752 in the dashboard just inside the A pillar. C751 has 24 cavities while C752 has 8 cavities, and are siamesed out of the single bundled cable passing through the gaiter between the hinges. No other connectors pass into the door. Picture of the locations are on 22-74 for cars with DPMS (driving position memory system), 22-75 for non-DPMS versions. The connector locations are the same, but the non-DPMS harness has only 16 cavities in C751 since there's no memory switch on the door panel. Since you have the mirror turn signal repeater, you almost undoubtedly have DPMS too.

You can cut to the chase on the turn signal symptom by unplugging the two connectors and see if the dash and other turn lamps work correctly. The connection from the lighting controller for the mirror is shared by the gauge cluster indicator, so if the cluster indicator goes out the problem is in the door and door harness. If it stays on the problem is elsewhere in the car.

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Meanwhile, the lock functions are managed by the MICU that's part of the under-dash fuse panel near the driver's left knee. The circuit diagram shows pretty much nothing definitive for the lock circuits in the MICU, instead showing the connections external to MICU going to the doors for lock actuators. See 22-187 if you are playing along at home. The armrest lock switches aren't drawn on the same page for some reason, although the relayed contacts from the remote are there when in fact those come in via redundant CANbus words from the "door multiplex control unit" switch assembly in the driver's armrest. If that assembly was flooded somehow, it is quite likely damaged. Being a "smart" module on the CAN data bus network, it should throw fault codes that the HDS can scan for. Further, the HDS can soft-force functions to do a sequencing test of locks and switches.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Well dealer mechanic and insurance agent are calling it lightning dmg and declared it total loss, so not much to do now.
 
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