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There is no way to disable the VCM, if there was I would have done it the first day I picked up my Pilot. :eek:



Hey Toolmanjoe,
Your post on getting rid of the ANC was great. My question is - if the primary reason Honda installs the ANC is to negate the VCM is there away to turn off the VCM?
I, like many other Pilot owners, do not like those cylinders being deactivated.
I would do ANYthing to always run on all six cylinders.
And I know forum readers say that the ANC does not interfer with the sound of the stock radio unit, but my 2012 touring sound system is weak.
I hope you are still following this post and will reply
Thakns
 
After disconnecting the ANC connector the hands free phone does not work anymore. My wife is alittle upset so I am going to have to reconnect it. One of the Connectors says ANC the other says wireless. We disconnected the ANC and when I call here from the house and she is driving she can hear me but I can't hear her talking. Once I get my Adjustable Line converter I will post pictures.
Jim
 
Armystrong, two ideas:
1- To your wife just say "oops sorry dear". :eek:
2- Hook up the 1st set of wires and then disconect the other set. See if that may work.



After disconnecting the ANC connector the hands free phone does not work anymore. My wife is alittle upset so I am going to have to reconnect it. One of the Connectors says ANC the other says wireless. We disconnected the ANC and when I call here from the house and she is driving she can hear me but I can't hear her talking. Once I get my Adjustable Line converter I will post pictures.
Jim
 
DMG
I can not believe the VCM has to be locked in. Why would Honda go thru all the extra gizzmo's (ANC) to lessen the annoyance of the cylinders shutting down for a fraction of a gallon of fuel?
But to all who disagree- I firmly believe that by running a "noise cancelation" thru the SAME speakers that must produce very good sound quality is an oxymoron. The Touring says 600 watts. Thats a joke. How can a speaker that supposed to muffle a sound, produce great music? Honda should have used a separate speaker to run the ANC. The sound system in my 2004 pilot was fantastic. I could never have turned the volume up past 3/4 way up! On this 2012 its up all the way a lot of the time (and I'm an old guy)! The clarity and loudness is being muffled by the ANC. And the ANC is only there to help MUTE the VCM which none of us want! Bunch of crap.
 
J.S. I agree with you, I do not like dropping cylinders just to add to themileage. The pilot it is not that noticeable as my 2011 Dodge Ram. When the Ram drops to eco mode you would swear that you must need a tune-up.

I don't even like the auto door locks when you shift out of park, I wish I could disable that and the VCM.... then life would be great.


When it comes to the stock radio (non-Nav) in my Pilot that was a total joke.... no volume, no imaging and certainly no punch! It was like a 9 volt transistor radio form the 60's. That is why I ripped out all of the stock system and replaced it with Kenwood, JL Audio and Morel drives.<O:p></O:p>

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/19-audio-electronics/32406-2012-exl-stereo-build.html
 
DMG,
What a beautiful/professional installation job.
If i didn't have a bunch of tools, etc under the hatch I would consider cutting in a sub woofer too.
And if tool man Joe is listening, you stated in your 11-13 post how you should have gone with the Touring to get the better system. Well that is the ONLY reason I went with the touring. Now I'm having a hard time with an upgrade since I already thought I paid for one from the factory!
 
You are my hero! That noise was driving me insane! I would have to drive with my door open to get rid of it! Thank you sooo much for posting this. In case anyone cares it was a 2011 pilot and you just unclip the black box mounted in the light assembly (not the one behind the garage door opener) for the front (it doesn't look like the one in the picture but it does have a QR code on it and the back one you can unhook without taking anything out or cutting wires if you use a pocket knife to unclip it.
 
Thanks for your excellent post ToolmanJoe - well presented too. I worked with your pics and instructions on my smart phone as my guide and it was easy. I saw videos of people pulling down their headliner and damaging it ... your approach is much smarter.

I would add a couple of comments perhaps specific to my 2011 EX-L. On the rear mic, reaching the screws with a tool was hopeless and my fingers alone could not decipher the plastic clips to pull them apart. I bent the wire end toward the light opening where my hands were until there was a little snap and the green housing came into view along with the two wires coming out of it. I doubt I broke the wire connection, just the plastic housing of the harness. I then saw a small tab which I could press with a small screwdriver, and a viola the back of the easily harness popped off. One down.

In front, I did not have the box in your pictures. I had two side by side small black housings, one the mic, one the homelink gear. Since I don't have wireless, I simply unhooked the harness on the mic - second mic down. My wires were purpose and white, not red. I do not have wireless or blue tooth, so no worries about keeping any function in the mic. Quick and simple and reversible, and no more blasting ANC tones from my powered sub.

Like most posters, I do not hear any audible difference in the sound of the engine in eco mode, or additional road noise, with the ANC disabled. There is sound, like any engine, but I cannot confirm any actual change.

Thanks again -
 
Toolmanjoe you rock. I havea 2011 and I wired up my system and could not power on sub because of the noise. Its too late to test tonight so I will post results tomorrow. For me I don't have bluetooth so I just unhooked thefrontand rear harness.
 
Hi all:

I would STRONGLY urge people to simply pull the harness into sight like Jimmy and I did rather than messing around with cutting the wires or fiddling with the screws which has to be the biggest pain in the a$$ imaginable.

You won't break it and YES you can pull it into sight and simply unfasten the clip with a small screwdriver tip.

Hope this saves people time and a lot of frustration.

James
 
ToolmanJoe - solid step-by-step, only one like it on the internets. Probably read this thread a dozen times in preparation for my amp/sub install and have been awaiting my encounter with these two dread screws in the rear mic.

So those two screws are impossible (for me). Hats off to your level of patience and skill. I didn't have enough of either to deal with that so here's how I disconnected the rear ANC mic:

1) Took the back light down as you instructed and unplugged it.

2) That 1" high barrier of foam? I took a box-cutter razor blade (just the blade, no handle) and a pair of pliers to grip the blade so I could better articulate it and I made two vertical incisions in the foam after feeling around behind it and determining a safe spot to slice. I made one incision on either side of the module used a trim tool to gently break the glue under it (the foam) and removed the little slice.

3) The module is now fully exposed.

4) The tab to release the plug is closest to the light-hole opening, fortunately. Took a pair of needle-nose pliers, depressed the tab and slid the plug right out.

5) Couple dabs of Gorilla Glue on the excised piece of foam and popped that right back in. Seamless (mostly).

6) Buttoned it all back up and we're good.

The best part is that if/when I need to hook it back up I can just break that bit of glue and have simple access to the module once again. As long as you make a clean incision in the foam, you can't tell anything was done to it unless you really get up on it looking for it.

There's my contribution to this excellent thread. Good day, gentlemen!
 
Okay, now that you've finished disabling the rear mic, let's move on to the front. Again, replay if you have any questions as I will monitor the thread.

-Joe

Your photos show NAVI Pilots.. non-Navi units don't have this black box. What is the procedure for non-Navi units at the front? I read that the Bluetooth and ANC are combined into the same harness coupler... Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
FIRST: I have not worked on an EX (only the EX-L non-nav)

It should be the same as the pictures on the first page.
 
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