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2016 EXL AWD Nav with sensing , 2008 Corolla SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just installed a Derale 13502 trans cooler on my 16 EXL at 86000 kms. Changed the inline trans filter and did a 3x drain and fill with Valvoline Max Life ATF. Pics of the cut open filter and fluid samples attached. Lots of crud in the filter so I was glad I changed it. The Derale cooler fit right in where the OEM cooler would go with some mounting brackets made from some 1" aluminum flat bar I had lying around. You just need an additional 4' length of 11/32" trans. oil hose. Whole project only cost me about $150 cdn including the filter.
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Did you install the Derale trans cooler independent of the OEM trans/radiator cooler? Where in the trans fluid flow path did you install your trans filter?
 

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I think I'm going to go ahead and change my ATF filter early.
Is that black ATF DW-1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think I'm going to go ahead and change my ATF filter early.
Is that black ATF DW-1?
I think it is DW-1 but don't know for sure since I purchased the vehicle used from Ottawa Honda and it may have been changed out prior
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you install the Derale trans cooler independent of the OEM trans/radiator cooler? Where in the trans fluid flow path did you install your trans filter?
The Derale cooler was installed instead of the OEM cooler as it was larger and a more economic option. The filter was just replaced with a new OEM one since I had already disconnected the oil lines for the cooler install.
 

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I think it is DW-1 but don't know for sure since I purchased the vehicle used from Ottawa Honda and it may have been changed out prior
That is really used fluid. You may want to change it 2 more times, after driving a few Kilometers in between to get all of that out. That will get you to about 80% new fluid with 3 drain and fills.
I would love to see your mounting bracket you built off the OE mount. I just did this job all OE not long ago. I like your price way better.
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Did you install the Derale trans cooler independent of the OEM trans/radiator cooler? Where in the trans fluid flow path did you install your trans filter?
The 2016 and newer models with the 6 speed transmission have an inline filter already. The 9 speed transmissions don't appear to have an inline filter, only an internal non serviceable one. Here is a video of a 2017 Ridgeline owner replacing his fluid and filter. It is the same for the Pilots 2016 up with the 6 speed transmission.

Transmission fluid and filter change
 
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The 2016 and newer models with the 6 speed transmission have an inline filter already. The 9 speed transmissions don't appear to have an inline filter, only an internal non serviceable one. Here is a video of a 2017 Ridgeline owner replacing his fluid and filter. It is the same for the Pilots 2016 up with the 6 speed transmission.

Transmission fluid and filter change
Eeew, he used DW-1 in the video. I couldn't watch. ?
 

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Did you install the Derale trans cooler independent of the OEM trans/radiator cooler? Where in the trans fluid flow path did you install your trans filter?
The 3rd Gen's ATF does not pass through the radiator. A hose comes off the transmission to the filter, then back into the transmission. So to add a cooler, you remove the return line from the filter and route to the cooler. Then a return line from the cooler back to transmission. This is what it looks like OEM in preparation.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are a couple of pics of the cooler install and the brackets made from 1" aluminum flat bar. I used existing mounting points so no drilling anything on the car. All the threaded holes are 6mm x 1.0 so hardware is easy to get. The cooler is positioned a bit higher but is 3" behind the bumper so airflow should still be OK.
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I installed a cooler myself and just used aluminum 1'' flat bar from the hardware store, bent and drilled into the bumper support beam (big silver aluminum beam). I highly recommend people to get a B&M cooler instead that is BAR AND PLATE, not the tube/fin as the bar and plate is more durable and cools better. Mine is about triple the size of the oem and when I hit it with a temp gun it was around 115 degrees on the inlet and already 7 degrees cooler on the return line.

I was talking to a guy that works on honda's that knows a lot about transmissions, especially in the odyssey and he suggests to change the fluid every 30k at most. I know someone that changed it every other change and the trans and their Acura TL lasted a really long time.
 

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Here are a couple of pics of the cooler install and the brackets made from 1" aluminum flat bar. I used existing mounting points so no drilling anything on the car. All the threaded holes are 6mm x 1.0 so hardware is easy to get. The cooler is positioned a bit higher but is 3" behind the bumper so airflow should still be OK.
That's a solid installation of the trans cooler. I prefer the secure mount with aluminum flat bar over the usual plastic rod inserted thru the radiator that come with some kits.
 

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Lots of good info in this thread, I applaud you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was talking to a guy that works on honda's that knows a lot about transmissions, especially in the odyssey and he suggests to change the fluid every 30k at most. I know someone that changed it every other change and the trans and their Acura TL lasted a really long time.
I agree 100% as I could not believe how crappy the fluid was when I drained it at 50k miles and also how much crap was in the filter. I can't believe that Honda doesn't recommend changing the filter when you do a fluid change on the 6 speed transmission.
 

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That is really used fluid. You may want to change it 2 more times, after driving a few Kilometers in between to get all of that out. That will get you to about 80% new fluid with 3 drain and fills.
I would love to see your mounting bracket you built off the OE mount. I just did this job all OE not long ago. I like your price way better. View attachment 134905

Do you really need to take off the front bumper cover to do the install?

Any details or pics would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Photos on post #6 and #9 Is all I got.
I was rebuilding the front-end, so it was easy without everything in the way. It possibly could be done with just with the plastic under shield removed. Not positive. Id be glad to answer any questions.
 
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Photos on post #6 and #9 Is all I got.
I was rebuilding the front-end, so it was easy without everything in the way. It possibly could be done with just with the plastic under shield removed. Not positive. Id be glad to answer any questions.

With the install, was everything plug and play? My concern is around fluid connections and whether or not I'll be chasing leaks.

I did the hitch and wiring harness myself, also oil changes and diff fluid. Im somewhat handy but trying to minimize headaches.

Debating letting the dealership do it.

Can you rate difficulty and chances of shitting the bed?
 

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With the install, was everything plug and play? My concern is around fluid connections and whether or not I'll be chasing leaks.

I did the hitch and wiring harness myself, also oil changes and diff fluid. Im somewhat handy but trying to minimize headaches.

Debating letting the dealership do it.

Can you rate difficulty and chances of shitting the bed?
The 2 photos should help you. All the factory bolt holes are present.
The factory kit is plug and play. I'm certain saw a video on how to remove the bumper. Philips screws on the fender liner. Gently pop loose the fender trim. Press tabs between the bumper and fender to release bumper. But it may not be neccesary. Squeezing the clamps and sliding them into position can be a pain. Pulling your existing hose off may produce some fluid loss, I don't recall it being extreme, just what's in the hose. I consider it an easy job. Mount the cooler 1st, the tubing bracket 2nd. Install hoses between the two. Then remove existing hose and install new hoses.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
With the install, was everything plug and play? My concern is around fluid connections and whether or not I'll be chasing leaks.

I did the hitch and wiring harness myself, also oil changes and diff fluid. Im somewhat handy but trying to minimize headaches.

Debating letting the dealership do it.

Can you rate difficulty and chances of shitting the bed?
Worst part for me was taking the lower splash shields off as they are fastened with those plastic push clips as well as several screws. I also took out the lower grill which was easy once I figured out how those other clips work and also the two screws, one on each side.
Not much ATF comes out when you disconnect the hoses. Make sure you have some extra ATF just in case you have to top up after everything is completed.
Leave yourself lots of time for the job and get the vehicle up on blocks for easier access and you will be fine and saving a pile of money.
 
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