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Discussion Starter #1
No seriously though did anyone get this fill bolt to open? Maybe I need to be on an actual lift to use a real breaker bar ( I have 12", 18" and 24") to do this but I climbed under there (did not jack up the car at all yet so I barely fit) and tried to open the fill bolt for the transfer case with a 3/8" ratchet (no extension) and there's not a chance that I'm going to get this sucker off. My 8" extension was too long so I just ordered a 3" extension to try to use it with the 3/8" ratchet or even a 1/2" drive ratchet and an adapter to step it down to 3/8". Figured I'd throw this out there in case any of you have had the opportunity to get it off. It's been over 4 years (50,000 miles) and never opened yet from the factory.
 

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Congratulations on at least trying to open the fill plug BEFORE draining the fluid. I have read on some forums where owners have drained the fluid they were changing and then tried to remove the fill plug, only to find they could not! That's one of those "Oh $hit" moments for sure.

Not to question your abilities, but are you sure you are trying to remove it going in the correct direction? Lefty loosey, righty tighty type of thing. I was a heavy industrial construction worker for over 40 years, working on all kinds of equipment. There have been times when laying under a car or piece of equipment that I had to stop and think about which direction to turn the nut or bolt. Some time laying on your back and looking up you get confused.

A breaker bar should do the trick, just may have to really put some "grunt" into it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah lol I was definitely loosening it but the clearance doesn’t allow my breaker bar to fit in there. A regular sized 3/8” ratchet barely fits so I may have to either jack the car up to loosen it with a 12” breaker bar and then pop the drain bolt open at the same time and then drop the car back down to drain etc. Either that or suck it up and bring it somewhere.
 

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Did you try tapping the ratchet with a rubber mallet? Sometimes that works for me. Adding a bit of penetrating oil might help too.

It might also be good to know what torque spec that bolts is supposed to be tightened to just to give you an idea of how much force should be required to remove it. If you can fit Harbor Freight’s $10 18” torque wrench in there it makes for a great ratcheting breaker bar. Just don’t use it for as a torque wrench after that since it may get out of calibration after being used as a breaker bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did try tapping but probably too light to be honest. I have a swivel socket en route via amazon to allow me to try to get the motion of the socket to be on the horizontal plane rather than vertical plane so that I can try to use my 18 or 24” breaker bar. If that doesn’t work I might try my impact drill but I’m a little nervous about spinning that bolt out too fast and damaging the threads.
 

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You could try to hit the ratchet or breaker bar with the palm of your hand. A lot of times that is what I do at work to break a bolt or nut free.
 

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I just changed the rear differential fluid and IMO both the fill and drain bolts were WAY over tightened from the factory. I'm 6'5" 265lbs and deadlift 400lbs, squat 350lbs and bench 315lbs and with 24" bar could barely loosen these bolts. I eventually took a heavy rubber mallet to it and they finally gave way....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Okay with the proper set of tools this job was easy to do. Definitely go with the 3” extension to open the fill bolt. I was able to use an 18” breaker bar - the 24” wouldn’t fit. Both crush washers are the same so no worry about which is which.
 

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An impact gun dialed down to rat-a-tat-tat on it with moderate force until it breaks free is a good way to go if you can’t get a big breaker bar on it. You didn’t mention if you have the 6 speed Honda transmission or the 9 speed ZF? That also reminds me of how stubborn the transmission filler bolt was on my TL and CL. No matter how careful I was to lube the threads with anti-seize and tighten them with a very modest amount of torque (10 ft-lb if I recall correctly), next time removing them still took the big 24” breaker bar.
 
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