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  1. Remove serpentine belt.
  2. Remove cap from power steering reservoir.
  3. Draw off fluid just below return line.
  4. Clamp return line with a padded vise grip.
  5. Disconnect return line from the reservoir.
  6. Drop return line in a bucket.
  7. Release vise grip clamp.
  8. Turn pump pully by hand to begin emptying old fluid from reservoir.
  9. Stop turning pully when reservoir is empty. Do not draw air into pump.
  10. Add fresh fluid into reservoir. Do not exceed the return line connection port.
  11. Repeat until fresh fluid flows from return line into bucket.
  12. Clamp return line with padded vise grip.
  13. Connect to reservoir.
  14. Release padded vise grip clamp.
  15. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  16. Turn pully by hand to purge air from return line. Do not draw air into pump.
  17. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  18. Install cap back on the power steering reservoir.
  19. Install serpentine belt.
  20. Reward self for not making a mess.
But if you act now it comes with a free pair of Hanes briefs for your shop rag collection, just pay a separate shipping and handling fee.
I got more of those in the making. Lol

Attention all Piloteers: Please, please do not ask him to post his process for that. 馃あ
 

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Discussion Starter #25
So I took it out and brought it over to advance...when they hooked it up their dumb machine said it was a good alternator. But when I shoook it ever so slightly I heard a rattle...like a piece off metal loose in there. Also when I turned the actual alternator by hand it squeaked but because it tested 鈥淕OOD鈥 I can鈥檛 get a new alternator..SMH
SO I CALLED THE JUNKYARD AND PRE PURCHASED A USED OBE FOR $60 bucks. Wished I saw the post for ROCK AUTO, damn . But who knows I might just get both...no one uses 1a auto??

ALSO HAVE A LOT OF ENGINE CODES
 

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So I took it out and brought it over to advance...when they hooked it up their dumb machine said it was a good alternator. But when I shoook it ever so slightly I heard a rattle...like a piece off metal loose in there. Also when I turned the actual alternator by hand it squeaked but because it tested 鈥淕OOD鈥 I can鈥檛 get a new alternator..SMH
SO I CALLED THE JUNKYARD AND PRE PURCHASED A USED OBE FOR $60 bucks. Wished I saw the post for ROCK AUTO, damn . But who knows I might just get both...no one uses 1a auto??

ALSO HAVE A LOT OF ENGINE CODES
One thing that is nice about buying alternator from an AutoZone or Oreilly etc etc is that they usually come with a life time waranty.
Yes, need to research each code to see what else is going on. Good Alternator and battery probably fix a lot of them.
 

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2006 Honda Pilot 2WD
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On your battery light issue: Have you checked for a bad battery cable? or rusty ground connection? Look for the bluish green colored copper sulphate buildup on the cable ends. If so, I would replace the battery cable. If rusty, remove and grind, sand or scrape to clean and replace.

Multimeter helps considerably to troubleshoot. You should initially get 14.6 volts out of your alternator right after starting the car. Then it should reduce down around 13. Batteries where I live last 3-4 years due to the heat. Alternators (original) go around 200,000-250,000 miles. Rebuilt alternators I had one only last 60,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Back story:
Was having power steering problems. So decided to drain the power steering fluid and refill it( Using ChrisFix video tutorial on YouTube)

**MISTAKE= Turkey Baster. Given that I never used a turkey baster before...I didn鈥檛 realize the top could easily come apart......SPILLED POWER STEERING ALL OVER THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE (alternator/lines, all that).

Couldn鈥檛 figure out how to clean it and didn鈥檛 want to leave in the rain to get washed out...water and electricity don鈥檛 mix haha. So decided to let 鈥渉eat鈥 from running engine dry it out.... bad move BECAUSE OIL DONT EVEAPORATE. Fluid just hardened

Had to let car sit for 2 months. When I went to start it Battery was dead. Got it jumped but as soon as it was taken off the jump it died. Got battery charged fully was barley holding charge. Took yo mechanic who said I had an exhaust manifold boot leak. Said he fixed problem. Drive car for a week than ...

THEN.....IT HAPPENED. That dreadful Battery light came on. And in a matter of seconds (12am at night) I was battling to get the car back home. Lost power, cutoff headlights, radio, heat just to barley...I MEAN BARLEY MAKE IT HOME....After a heated voicemail to my mechanic I searched YouTube far and wid and decided to change the battery (Which had a charge of 10v + after taking it out to get charged at advance as I picked up my new car quest alternator, left in car overnight and charge dropped to 9v from a 12.6v charge just yesterday...**shaking my head) and also change my alternator. Bought the tools to take out the alternator
Tools:
Serpentine belt tool
Needle nose pliers
Socket extensions ( different sizes or One with adjustable lengths)
Thin ratchet (to get to alternator positive post)
Rag (for power steering line)
10mm and 12mm Sockets (for bolts) + 14mm for tensioner pulley Engine type J35A9

Decided I鈥檇 order the alternator online (cheaper that way) and same time I go in to pick up the new alternator I鈥檇 get the old one tested...failed test so I was told (Also told no liquid should go on or drench an alternator and that鈥檚 why it probably was no good. Plus that oil just hardened up)

So...I recently ( 2 weeks ago)changed my alternator ( car quest from advance auto parts) , my battery ($160 gold top from advance auto parts) and Serpentine belt ($32.99) from advance auto parts

Rode well for 2 weeks then I noticed a battery light on while doing my deliveries one day...Almost lost it. Turned the car off, for like a minute or 2...turned it on and it disappeared. Meant to make a post then but didn鈥檛 SMH
Couple days later..IT happened again. But this time it come on within 5 minutes when I drove. Then I鈥檇 let car sit for like thirty minutes then drive which gave me like 5 minutes of drive time SMH

HOOKED UP multimeter to battery and got 12.4 volt reading..turned on car and got 12v reading From the alternator. (Compared to 14.2v when I first bought and installed it)
Now what???
Can鈥檛 test voltage drop because car has to be reved to 1500rpms (I don鈥檛 know how to raise cars rpms while under the hood) BUT When I hook up the negative multimeter to the negative post on battery and positive to the alternator case( WITHOUT REVING TO 1500rpms) I get a drop of .01 that means I have no voltage drops right??

So now that鈥檚 where I Am. Stuck with no clear next move

UNDERLINING CONDITIONS
VTM4 FLUID light been on since January..still haven鈥檛 changed the fluid SMH

CHECK ENGINE lights been on ever since I brought it to the mechanic ( bought a obd2 reader from autozone for like $33 but I think they check it for free so u want to return it...Just don鈥檛 want my car to get stuck there)

BRAKE LAMP light on

DIRTY TRANSMISSION FLUID which I planned on changing

*SKETCHY *
The positive post on the alternator seems burnt...Like itwas burned or something?? Was golden copper when fresh out the box so don鈥檛 know if that鈥檚 suppose to happen..the old alternator had a silver piece

ANY SUGGESTIONS??? Thanks
Update:
Took out alternator to go get tested at advance auto part. They said it was a good alternator( I Doubt)

When I manually turn the alternator with my hand I hear a squeak. Also if I jiggle it in my hand I hear 鈥渃link clink鈥 as if something is shaking in their. But they refuse to switch it...Even though I have a warrantyBECAUSE the machine said it was good (***The machine DOES NOT check for broken components INSIDE the alternator)

ANYWAYS I put my alternator back on and WALA, no battery light after an hour. So I charged my phone and it still didn鈥檛 pop up.

?? Wondering if it鈥檒l pop back up in another couple weeks, and if I鈥檒l have to keep taking it out and putting it back??

*IWas To Scared To Test The Voltage Coming From The Alternator, fear of bad news. (I鈥檒l check tomorrow)

GOOD NEWS
I was able to cancel the used Desno (manufacture one) alternator and keep my $60 bucks.

Also...with the right tools I could remove an alternator in Like 5 minutes....Putting it back on, on the other hand is more difficult (trying to screw in alternator bolts...especially bottom one)

And car runs...for Now!!!
 

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Keep us posted. I love a good story. :)

Hopefully it'll be OK, but if it happens again, I'd test it myself and/or get it tested somewhere different from where you bought it. Otherwise, the place you got it is often more interested in making excuses and arguing rather than replacing a clearly defective product.

 
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