- Remove serpentine belt.
- Remove cap from power steering reservoir.
- Draw off fluid just below return line.
- Clamp return line with a padded vise grip.
- Disconnect return line from the reservoir.
- Drop return line in a bucket.
- Release vise grip clamp.
- Turn pump pully by hand to begin emptying old fluid from reservoir.
- Stop turning pully when reservoir is empty. Do not draw air into pump.
- Add fresh fluid into reservoir. Do not exceed the return line connection port.
- Repeat until fresh fluid flows from return line into bucket.
- Clamp return line with padded vise grip.
- Connect to reservoir.
- Release padded vise grip clamp.
- Fill reservoir to the proper level.
- Turn pully by hand to purge air from return line. Do not draw air into pump.
- Fill reservoir to the proper level.
- Install cap back on the power steering reservoir.
- Install serpentine belt.
- Reward self for not making a mess.
But if you act now it comes with a free pair of Hanes briefs for your shop rag collection, just pay a separate shipping and handling fee.
I got more of those in the making. Lol
Hmmm. Clean nails would be nice.
One thing that is nice about buying alternator from an AutoZone or Oreilly etc etc is that they usually come with a life time waranty.So I took it out and brought it over to advance...when they hooked it up their dumb machine said it was a good alternator. But when I shoook it ever so slightly I heard a rattle...like a piece off metal loose in there. Also when I turned the actual alternator by hand it squeaked but because it tested “GOOD” I can’t get a new alternator..SMH
SO I CALLED THE JUNKYARD AND PRE PURCHASED A USED OBE FOR $60 bucks. Wished I saw the post for ROCK AUTO, damn . But who knows I might just get both...no one uses 1a auto??
ALSO HAVE A LOT OF ENGINE CODES
Was having power steering problems. So decided to drain the power steering fluid and refill it( Using ChrisFix video tutorial on YouTube)
**MISTAKE= Turkey Baster. Given that I never used a turkey baster before...I didn’t realize the top could easily come apart......SPILLED POWER STEERING ALL OVER THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE (alternator/lines, all that).
Couldn’t figure out how to clean it and didn’t want to leave in the rain to get washed out...water and electricity don’t mix haha. So decided to let “heat” from running engine dry it out.... bad move BECAUSE OIL DONT EVEAPORATE. Fluid just hardened
Had to let car sit for 2 months. When I went to start it Battery was dead. Got it jumped but as soon as it was taken off the jump it died. Got battery charged fully was barley holding charge. Took yo mechanic who said I had an exhaust manifold boot leak. Said he fixed problem. Drive car for a week than ...
THEN.....IT HAPPENED. That dreadful Battery light came on. And in a matter of seconds (12am at night) I was battling to get the car back home. Lost power, cutoff headlights, radio, heat just to barley...I MEAN BARLEY MAKE IT HOME....After a heated voicemail to my mechanic I searched YouTube far and wid and decided to change the battery (Which had a charge of 10v + after taking it out to get charged at advance as I picked up my new car quest alternator, left in car overnight and charge dropped to 9v from a 12.6v charge just yesterday...**shaking my head) and also change my alternator. Bought the tools to take out the alternator
Serpentine belt tool
Needle nose pliers
Socket extensions ( different sizes or One with adjustable lengths)
Thin ratchet (to get to alternator positive post)
Rag (for power steering line)
10mm and 12mm Sockets (for bolts) + 14mm for tensioner pulley Engine type J35A9
Decided I’d order the alternator online (cheaper that way) and same time I go in to pick up the new alternator I’d get the old one tested...failed test so I was told (Also told no liquid should go on or drench an alternator and that’s why it probably was no good. Plus that oil just hardened up)
So...I recently ( 2 weeks ago)changed my alternator ( car quest from advance auto parts) , my battery ($160 gold top from advance auto parts) and Serpentine belt ($32.99) from advance auto parts
Rode well for 2 weeks then I noticed a battery light on while doing my deliveries one day...Almost lost it. Turned the car off, for like a minute or 2...turned it on and it disappeared. Meant to make a post then but didn’t SMH
Couple days later..IT happened again. But this time it come on within 5 minutes when I drove. Then I’d let car sit for like thirty minutes then drive which gave me like 5 minutes of drive time SMH
HOOKED UP multimeter to battery and got 12.4 volt reading..turned on car and got 12v reading From the alternator. (Compared to 14.2v when I first bought and installed it)
Can’t test voltage drop because car has to be reved to 1500rpms (I don’t know how to raise cars rpms while under the hood) BUT When I hook up the negative multimeter to the negative post on battery and positive to the alternator case( WITHOUT REVING TO 1500rpms) I get a drop of .01 that means I have no voltage drops right??
So now that’s where I Am. Stuck with no clear next move
VTM4 FLUID light been on since January..still haven’t changed the fluid SMH
CHECK ENGINE lights been on ever since I brought it to the mechanic ( bought a obd2 reader from autozone for like $33 but I think they check it for free so u want to return it...Just don’t want my car to get stuck there)
BRAKE LAMP light on
DIRTY TRANSMISSION FLUID which I planned on changing
The positive post on the alternator seems burnt...Like itwas burned or something?? Was golden copper when fresh out the box so don’t know if that’s suppose to happen..the old alternator had a silver piece
ANY SUGGESTIONS??? Thanks