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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Back story:
Was having power steering problems. So decided to drain the power steering fluid and refill it( Using ChrisFix video tutorial on YouTube)

**MISTAKE= Turkey Baster. Given that I never used a turkey baster before...I didn’t realize the top could easily come apart......SPILLED POWER STEERING ALL OVER THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE (alternator/lines, all that).

Couldn’t figure out how to clean it and didn’t want to leave in the rain to get washed out...water and electricity don’t mix haha. So decided to let “heat” from running engine dry it out.... bad move BECAUSE OIL DONT EVEAPORATE. Fluid just hardened

Had to let car sit for 2 months. When I went to start it Battery was dead. Got it jumped but as soon as it was taken off the jump it died. Got battery charged fully was barley holding charge. Took yo mechanic who said I had an exhaust manifold boot leak. Said he fixed problem. Drive car for a week than ...

THEN.....IT HAPPENED. That dreadful Battery light came on. And in a matter of seconds (12am at night) I was battling to get the car back home. Lost power, cutoff headlights, radio, heat just to barley...I MEAN BARLEY MAKE IT HOME....After a heated voicemail to my mechanic I searched YouTube far and wid and decided to change the battery (Which had a charge of 10v + after taking it out to get charged at advance as I picked up my new car quest alternator, left in car overnight and charge dropped to 9v from a 12.6v charge just yesterday...**shaking my head) and also change my alternator. Bought the tools to take out the alternator
Tools:
Serpentine belt tool
Needle nose pliers
Socket extensions ( different sizes or One with adjustable lengths)
Thin ratchet (to get to alternator positive post)
Rag (for power steering line)
10mm and 12mm Sockets (for bolts) + 14mm for tensioner pulley Engine type J35A9

Decided I’d order the alternator online (cheaper that way) and same time I go in to pick up the new alternator I’d get the old one tested...failed test so I was told (Also told no liquid should go on or drench an alternator and that’s why it probably was no good. Plus that oil just hardened up)

So...I recently ( 2 weeks ago)changed my alternator ( car quest from advance auto parts) , my battery ($160 gold top from advance auto parts) and Serpentine belt ($32.99) from advance auto parts

Rode well for 2 weeks then I noticed a battery light on while doing my deliveries one day...Almost lost it. Turned the car off, for like a minute or 2...turned it on and it disappeared. Meant to make a post then but didn’t SMH
Couple days later..IT happened again. But this time it come on within 5 minutes when I drove. Then I’d let car sit for like thirty minutes then drive which gave me like 5 minutes of drive time SMH

HOOKED UP multimeter to battery and got 12.4 volt reading..turned on car and got 12v reading From the alternator. (Compared to 14.2v when I first bought and installed it)
Now what???
Can’t test voltage drop because car has to be reved to 1500rpms (I don’t know how to raise cars rpms while under the hood) BUT When I hook up the negative multimeter to the negative post on battery and positive to the alternator case( WITHOUT REVING TO 1500rpms) I get a drop of .01 that means I have no voltage drops right??

So now that’s where I Am. Stuck with no clear next move

UNDERLINING CONDITIONS
VTM4 FLUID light been on since January..still haven’t changed the fluid SMH

CHECK ENGINE lights been on ever since I brought it to the mechanic ( bought a obd2 reader from autozone for like $33 but I think they check it for free so u want to return it...Just don’t want my car to get stuck there)

BRAKE LAMP light on

DIRTY TRANSMISSION FLUID which I planned on changing

*SKETCHY *
The positive post on the alternator seems burnt...Like itwas burned or something?? Was golden copper when fresh out the box so don’t know if that’s suppose to happen..the old alternator had a silver piece

ANY SUGGESTIONS??? Thanks
 

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Sounds like your new alternator might be bad. You could double check all electrical connections are tight but your 10mV measurement implies they are tight between alternator and battery.

I would additionally address the other issues (VTM, tranny fluid, brake lamp) issues that you know about. It sounds like the Pilot needs a little TLC.

Be sure to ask on the forum what tranny fluid you should use.😁
 

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Discussion Starter #5
damn... now I gotta take this S*** back out Nd go get it tested SMH
NEXT TIME IMA GET A BOSCH ALTERNATOR
 

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^^+1

Get a genuine Denso alternator. You can see a little 🧡 next to it, meaning it's what's most favored.


Don't forget to use your 5% Piloteers discount code if you get it from Rockauto.

5% Discount Code: 508F794D9D4F1F
Expires: August 12, 2020



Please enter this code in the ‘How Did You Hear about Us’ box to receive the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. All orders are placed online and the discount code must be entered before an order is submitted to receive the discount.

Another tip: I know they call it the turkey baster method, and that's what I started using when I did the power steering fluid, an actual turkey baster, but like you I quickly noticed it was messy and then switched to a little cheap hand pump, which was much easier and cleaner.

How much power steering fluid?

 

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Why use a silly pump when the car has a perfectly good one. It just needs to turn slower controlled by ................ me. 😁
 

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Why use a silly pump when the car has a perfectly good one. It just needs to turn slower controlled by ................ me. 😁
You might be able to pull that off, but for others it might turn into a regrettable mess. :oops:
 

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Hey OP, the Rockauto monthly newsletter just landed in my inbox, and it features their new ad which looks like it was made just for you. :)



I could've done without their nauseating little jingle, tho.
136475
 

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^^+1

Get a genuine Denso alternator. You can see a little 🧡 next to it, meaning it's what's most favored.


Don't forget to use your 5% Piloteers discount code if you get it from Rockauto.




Another tip: I know they call it the turkey baster method, and that's what I started using when I did the power steering fluid, an actual turkey baster, but like you I quickly noticed it was messy and then switched to a little cheap hand pump, which was much easier and cleaner.

How much power steering fluid?

Why use a silly pump when the car has a perfectly good one. It just needs to turn slower controlled by ................ me. 😁
Go big or go home...

 

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You might be able to pull that off, but for others it might turn into a regrettable mess. :oops:
  1. Remove serpentine belt.
  2. Remove cap from power steering reservoir.
  3. Draw off fluid just below return line.
  4. Clamp return line with a padded vise grip.
  5. Disconnect return line from the reservoir.
  6. Drop return line in a bucket.
  7. Release vise grip clamp.
  8. Turn pump pully by hand to begin emptying old fluid from reservoir.
  9. Stop turning pully when reservoir is empty. Do not draw air into pump.
  10. Add fresh fluid into reservoir. Do not exceed the return line connection port.
  11. Repeat until fresh fluid flows from return line into bucket.
  12. Clamp return line with padded vise grip.
  13. Connect to reservoir.
  14. Release padded vise grip clamp.
  15. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  16. Turn pully by hand to purge air from return line. Do not draw air into pump.
  17. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  18. Install cap back on the power steering reservoir.
  19. Install serpentine belt.
  20. Reward self for not making a mess.
 

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  1. Remove serpentine belt.
  2. Remove cap from power steering reservoir.
  3. Draw off fluid just below return line.
  4. Clamp return line with a padded vise grip.
  5. Disconnect return line from the reservoir.
  6. Drop return line in a bucket.
  7. Release vise grip clamp.
  8. Turn pump pully by hand to begin emptying old fluid from reservoir.
  9. Stop turning pully when reservoir is empty. Do not draw air into pump.
  10. Add fresh fluid into reservoir. Do not exceed the return line connection port.
  11. Repeat until fresh fluid flows from return line into bucket.
  12. Clamp return line with padded vise grip.
  13. Connect to reservoir.
  14. Disconnect vise grip clamp.
  15. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  16. Turn pully by hand to purge air from return line. Do not draw air into pump.
  17. Fill reservoir to the proper level.
  18. Install cap back on the power steering reservoir.
  19. Install serpentine belt.
  20. Reward self for not making a mess.
All good steps but I prefer squeezing the big full bulb multiple times to keep my finger muscles toned.
 

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All good steps but I prefer squeezing the big full bulb multiple times to keep my finger muscles toned.
My method purges your old fluid out instead of mixing new fluid with old and without introducing air into the system.
You only need to remove enough fluid in the beginning to disconnect return line.
 

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