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No problem, happens all the time when I use the male form of my name, which I usually do on car forums so that other people take me seriously. :)
Well you let the cat is out of the bag. Lol. I won't treat you differently.
 

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I'm actually a woman, but I'll still take the complement. 👧
I also replaced the front engine mount (broken), right engine mount (also broken), EGR valve, the rear O2 sensor, the fuel pressure regulator, and both ground wires while I was waiting for these parts to arrive. So far I haven't experienced the long start that I asked about a couple weeks ago.
I nominate andywatson for the “Hardcore 03-07 Pilot Generation DIYer of the year” award. And all the axle and bearing work, and no groceries... Hard core...

I whine to myself when I discover that I need to do a brake job while rotating tires... whah, my back is sore from changing the oil and now I have to do brake pads... whah Im tired... You are doing all this work at home with no/low groceries, getting parts delivered... I was whining when Amazon delivered my shampoo late... I have grown soft and lazy... Lord, please help me redeem myself, seriously...

We salute you! You are killing it girl.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Here's the inside of the OEM driver's side inner CV joint, after disassembling it and cleaning out all the old grease.
137304


New boot installed and ready to go back on the Pilot. The old boot had one crack and two pinholes. I'll have to wait a couple more days for the passenger side inner boot to arrive. I'm not changing the outer boots right now because they are in much better shape. Their rubber is still shiny and firm. Both inner boots were cracked, and the rubber is dull and almost dry-rot looking.
137305
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Positive update: just put the left front OEM axle back in and took a test drive. The violent vibrations I got during acceleration with the Napa axle are barely perceptible now. But not quite perfect though, so I'm looking forward to swapping out the other axle on Monday to get me back to all factory parts (except the bearings and hubs). Then a trip to Napa to see if they'll let me return these wobbly axles and get my $120 back.
 

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Then a trip to Napa to see if they'll let me return these wobbly axles and get my $120 back.
Print out this thread to show as evidence you tried in good faith to make them work, but they failed to measure up adequately. If they start giving you any guff.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Here's another question: what's the right amount of grease to add for the inner joints? The shop manual says I need to add 6-7 oz of grease to the inner joint cup before inserting the bearings. The boot kit comes with a pouch of grease, but with no marking indicating how much it is. Looking at similar pouches online, it looks like it's only 3 or 4 ounces. I already assembled and installed the left axle with only one pouch of grease, and I'm getting ready to do the right side. But I'm wondering if I need to go buy additional grease to make sure I'm putting the right amount in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
My question would be are different greases compatible? Are the cup capacities different?
The right side supposedly take about an ounce more than the left. I already cleaned out all the old grease so I'm not worried about compatibility with the old stuff, I just wonder if I need to go buy 2 tubes of the same type so that I have the right amount.
 

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Here's another question: what's the right amount of grease to add for the inner joints? The shop manual says I need to add 6-7 oz of grease to the inner joint cup before inserting the bearings. The boot kit comes with a pouch of grease, but with no marking indicating how much it is. Looking at similar pouches online, it looks like it's only 3 or 4 ounces. I already assembled and installed the left axle with only one pouch of grease, and I'm getting ready to do the right side. But I'm wondering if I need to go buy additional grease to make sure I'm putting the right amount in there.
Other than having to little, I wouldn't be concerned with a little extra.
 

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**This is what I found so buy another bag if you think you need a bit more

Grease quantity
Inboard joint
Left driveshaft: 160—180 g (5.6—6.4 oz)
Right driveshaft:
'03—06 models: 210-230 g (7.4-8.1 oz)
'07—08 models: 190-210 g (6.7—7.4 oz)
 

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Discussion Starter #51
**This is what I found so buy another bag if you think you need a bit more

Grease quantity
Inboard joint
Left driveshaft: 160—180 g (5.6—6.4 oz)
Right driveshaft:
'03—06 models: 210-230 g (7.4-8.1 oz)
'07—08 models: 190-210 g (6.7—7.4 oz)
Yeah, those are the same numbers in the shop manual. There's definitely not 8 ounces of grease in this little bag, so I'm going to have to go get more. And I also should remove the left side boot and add more grease as well, since I don't want to run it with only 3 or 4 oz in there.
 

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And I also should remove the left side boot and add more grease as well, since I don't want to run it with only 3 or 4 oz in there.
You’re certainly diligent....do you think It’s possible to remove one of the band clamps to shoot some grease in with a syringe?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
You’re certainly diligent....do you think It’s possible to remove one of the band clamps to shoot some grease in with a syringe?
I'm actually thinking about redoing the large size band clamp on the left side anyway. I used one of the pinch clamp types, so it doesn't sit completely flush. But there's actually so little room between the boot and the wall of the transmission, that the pinched part of the clamp actually barely touched the transmission for about a centimeter of it's revolution, until I took a hammer to it and flattened it. But I'm just not that comfortable with a spinning clamp being that close to the wall every revolution. So I'm going to get the other kind of band clamp tool that does the clamp that sits more flush. Just sucks that the boot grease packages don't have quantities listed on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
For anyone who might stumble across this thread in the future, the little unlabeled clear bag of grease that comes with a Beck/Arnley CV boot kit contains exactly 110 grams of grease, or 3.9 ounces. That is the correct amount for the outboard joints, but as discussed above, significantly less than the required amount for the inboard joint. I also ordered a Flexxboot 3000 as a backup plan in case the Beck/Arnley boot didn't fit or didn't arrive here in time. It also comes with an unlabeled foil bag of grease, and it is 104 grams, or 3.7 ounces. I could not find this info anywhere on the internet, so maybe it'll help someone now that I weighed them on a precision digital balance at work.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Here a couple photos showing the left side CV axle area. First photo shows the crimped ear of the band clamp and how there's no clearance between it and the wall of the transmission.
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Once I removed the axle, it was obvious that the ear was scraping the wall and I definitely think that could be a problem long term. This was only after driving about 10 miles with the new clamp.
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So I removed the bad new clamp, added more grease to the boot to get it to the proper amount, and reclamped it with the other kind of band clamp that sits flush. Got it all back together, including new grease and boot on the right side inner joint too. Test drive feels perfect. For the first time since I bought it several months ago, it's riding so smooth. No bad bearings or axles anymore, and no vibrations or shimmies or funny noises at all speeds. Finally!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Another followup: there's still a grinding and humming noise that's driving me nuts when rolling, so to help me narrow down the location this time, I ordered a set of the wired Steelman ChassisEars for $70. I hooked up all 6 microphones to various parts on the front end and took a few test drives: knuckles, tie rods, brake calipers, transmission housing, engine mounts, and intermediate shaft support bracket. What I found was that the knuckles and brakes are completely silent (thanks to all the blood, sweat, and tears that were spilled in the past month replacing the bearings and axles). But the only part that was noisy was the bracket that holds the intermediate shaft bearing, which is what I've been suspecting for awhile. So I'm really happy with the ChassisEars, and think they'll be handy in the future, since I'm always chasing annoying sounds and vibrations. I've ordered the replacement bearing and clips and seal and will attempt to find a local shop with a press who can remove/reinstall the bearing if I just walk in with the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Okay, hopefully this will be the last followup to this thread. I finally got my shipment from HondaPartsNow (which should really be called HondaPartsInTwoWeeks) with the replacement bearing ($40) for the intermediate shaft, the two snap rings, and the shaft mount oil seal. I pulled the shaft off the car, put it in a backpack, and walked 1.5 miles to the nearest Amish machine shop that has a press, and for $20, he pressed out the old bearing and pressed in the new one, then I walked home. It was 90 degrees F and very unpleasant, and my garage was even hotter while I was reinstalling the shaft, and then the CV axle (which was the 7th time I've had all that stuff disassembled in the past 3 months.) At least I've memorized all the bolt torques so I don't have to look them up when reassembling everything.

So the good news is that the grinding, humming, whopwhopwhop noise is finally gone! And the engine idles so much smoother and quieter since the valve adjustment last week. I found so much helpful information on this site when tackling all these problems for the past few months, that I hope maybe someday some of my rambling posts will help someone else troubleshoot various noises or problems.
 
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