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Discussion Starter #1
Mine are popping on turns, even mild ones. Randomly, but it's getting worse. Used to hear a pop every once in a long while (3 years ago) and now its getting much more frequent. 2011 with 113k miles.

I am wondering how long they will last like this? No torn boots, no leaks, just popping when accelerating on turns, sometimes. I don't want to replace them if they will work fine for 2 more years, but I don't want my wife to get stranded, or do any additional damage if it breaks partially.

It's about $450 shipped just for the axles from Honda, plus misc parts/seals. Hear too many bad reports on the Cardone/Surtrack/Trakmotive ones, where people were not happy with them.
I know I could ship them off for a rebuild (CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs) but not sure yet how much that would save, I cannot imagine it would be that much, but need to investigate.
 

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Ah my 2008 just started popping so I am in the same boat. Hopefully as long as the boots stay in tact I can get a little more time out of them.
 

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If the CV axles are popping/clicking there is no doubt there is damage. Tough to guesstimate how long one can push it to the limit. IMO it’s important to fix it soon as this is a critical component. Should the CV joint / axle fail completely the situation can become very unsafe.
 

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I have noticed popping a slow speeds like in parking lots when circling. Nothing at more than 5 or 10 mph though.
 

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On a previous vehicle,1985 Dodge Mini Ram Van FWIW, mine popped accelerating hard uphill on a sharp turn back onto a highway, pulling a U-Haul. Car, U-Haul and 3 passengers had to be flatbedded a few hundred kilometers back home. Unsafe, unpleasant and expensive.

*Due to poor syntax above, note that passengers were not on the flatbed but crammed into the tow truck's cabin. :) Guy didn't care, he was making a killing on the tow. :(
 

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You could probably baby it along for a couple months, maybe even a year if it doesn't continue to get worse.

But one wrong "event" could cause total failure of the axle. For example, a slip then grip condition driving in snow/ice.
 

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I will pile on with the others. IMHO, trying to get more miles on a worn CV joint is false economy. Have it replaced soon, at your convenience. Or you could suffer an inconvenient and dangerous failure at an unexpected time.
 

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I've been dealing with the same noise for years. Dealership states its not a problem. Even as of 3 weeks ago.
No torn boots or leaking. Friends sister had a similar issue and dealer replaced the strut mount bearings which solved the issue.

Since I dont have a spring compressor, I may take it to an independent shop and have them replace those bearings.
If the noise is still there then next up would be the axles.
 

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I've been dealing with the same noise for years. Dealership states its not a problem. Even as of 3 weeks ago.
No torn boots or leaking. Friends sister had a similar issue and dealer replaced the strut mount bearings which solved the issue.

Since I dont have a spring compressor, I may take it to an independent shop and have them replace those bearings.
If the noise is still there then next up would be the axles.
Struts and CV joints are two entirely different things. OP stated CV joint is the problem. If clicking is linked to wheel rotation, it's not the strut. Not sure that your comments are helpful.
 

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Struts and CV joints are two entirely different things. OP stated CV joint is the problem. If clicking is linked to wheel rotation, it's not the strut. Not sure that your comments are helpful.
OP states: "No torn boots, no leaks, just popping when accelerating on turns, sometimes. I don't want to replace them if they will work fine for 2 more years, " ---- Now compare that to what I wrote.
I went to the dealership for the same exact symptom as he is reporting.
Next, someone I know had the same issue where they assumed it was a CV Axle. Upon them going to the dealership, it was diagnosed as a bad strut mount bearing.
So tell me how my comment isnt helpful?

I would say your asinine response is less than helpful
 

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OP states: "No torn boots, no leaks, just popping when accelerating on turns, sometimes. I don't want to replace them if they will work fine for 2 more years, " ---- Now compare that to what I wrote.
I went to the dealership for the same exact symptom as he is reporting.
Next, someone I know had the same issue where they assumed it was a CV Axle. Upon them going to the dealership, it was diagnosed as a bad strut mount bearing.
So tell me how my comment isnt helpful?

I would say your asinine response is less than helpful
Struts are not CV joints. You apparently don't understand this. Rudeness doesn't help the discussion
 

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im aware struts and CV joints are different. No Ph.d needed to distinguish the two.
Strut bearings do rotate, Maybe not 360 degrees like a CV joint but enough to make a similar noise when turning if those bearings wear out. Did you diagnose his car to determine IT IS the CV axle? According to the OP those are the same symptoms experienced by myself and friend who replaced the strut bearings.
It could be the axle or it could be the strut mount bearings. I heard and saw first hand someone who has a Pilot and the vehicle made the same noise while turning. It was assumed to be a CV Axle but determined to be the strut mount bearings that needed to be replaced.

We are all here to help. We dont know his exact problem but are willing to share information that can help him in properly diagnosing his troubles.

If youre rude, then expect it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
This is definitely popping from the CV axle. Failed strut mounts don't make repetitive pop-clicks under rotation like this.

That said, if I DO replace the driveshafts, I will replace struts and strut mounts anyway, since they are 9 years old and have 113k miles on them, but mostly because I have to disconnect the bottom of the strut from the knuckle, so half the work is already done. I was just hoping to hold off on all of it since we will only keep this pilot another 2.5 years.... but it looks like it probably is a good idea to go ahead and schedule the work.

$400 - Honda OEM driveshafts
$210 - Bilstein B6 strut cartridges
$65 - KYB strut mounts
$25 - Bellows and bumpers
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$700 I didn't feel like spending on this thing if the clicks were more of a nuisance. :mad:
 

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This is definitely popping from the CV axle. Failed strut mounts don't make repetitive pop-clicks under rotation like this.

That said, if I DO replace the driveshafts, I will replace struts and strut mounts anyway, since they are 9 years old and have 113k miles on them, but mostly because I have to disconnect the bottom of the strut from the knuckle, so half the work is already done. I was just hoping to hold off on all of it since we will only keep this pilot another 2.5 years.... but it looks like it probably is a good idea to go ahead and schedule the work.

$400 - Honda OEM driveshafts
$210 - Bilstein B6 strut cartridges
$65 - KYB strut mounts
$25 - Bellows and bumpers
-----------------------------------------
$700 I didn't feel like spending on this thing if the clicks were more of a nuisance. :mad:
Well only you know how bad it really is... what's your risk tolerance? The vehicle is AWD so it's likely it will still move if the axle fails and no longer provides any power the the wheel. My bigger concern is if somehow the axle fails and is trying to prevent rotation rather than allowing free wheeling, do you end up in a wheel lockup scenario? Is that .01% likely to happen? Less? More?

I'd probably look to work it into the budget over the next couple months and make it happen just because my risk tolerance with kids in the car is pretty low. Also, you could shave $300 of that off if you just do the driveshafts and save the struts for another day, even if you are literally removing and reinstalling the old stuff. Budgets dictate crazy things sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'd probably look to work it into the budget over the next couple months and make it happen just because my risk tolerance with kids in the car is pretty low. Also, you could shave $300 of that off if you just do the driveshafts and save the struts for another day, even if you are literally removing and reinstalling the old stuff. Budgets dictate crazy things sometimes.
You are probably right. I can afford it... the budget isnt an issue. I'm just cheap ;) and since we aren't keeping it indefinitely, I'd rather do as little as I can get away with and still be safe. Our plan was 8 years of ownership when we bought it and we will likely stick to that.

I can put bilsteins in there for the same price as cheap KYB's with just a little more labor, so im gonna do that, if I already have it apart. Might go ahead and do the sway bar links since one side will be disconnected as well.
 

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Have you heard of or considered Cardone or Raxles axles instead of OEM? They're not as expensive as oem and havent heard great feedback about them.

I
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have read too many bad things about all the available aftermarket CV axles to consider using them
 

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Have you heard of or considered Cardone or Raxles axles instead of OEM? They're not as expensive as oem and havent heard great feedback about them.

I
As Boom said, I just hear too many horror stories about aftermarket axles and fighting weird vibrations and misalignment issues. I'd buy some "lifetime warranty" from a local parts store if I were in a pinch but otherwise I'd order OEM.
 

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My '04 right rear axle is clicking all the time under low speed left turns. I just bought the axle assembly, nut, and set clip from Honda and rears are about the same cost as the fronts. About $200 a unit. Are there any seals I should be thinking about replacing when I do this right rear axle swap?
 

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Might think about doing rear sway bar bushings while you're back there.
 
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