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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found this video using this product on an I-4. V6 is mentioned in the video.
Read somewhere that this product is a better product than Sea Foam.
Opinions?
 

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I have seen very little evidence this is needed on Honda DI engines. Every once in a while I hear of someone with carbon issues but these aren't VAG 2.0T's that 20 years later still need walnut blasting every 30k miles.

My opinion on carbon buildup: it's all oil vapors, if your oil level isn't lowering between changes you aren't burning any and there is nothing to be concerned about. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You'll get some people that claim those sprays kill cats and 02 sensors.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have seen very little evidence this is needed on Honda DI engines. Every once in a while I hear of someone with carbon issues but these aren't VAG 2.0T's that 20 years later still need walnut blasting every 30k miles.

My opinion on carbon buildup: it's all oil vapors, if your oil level isn't lowering between changes you aren't burning any and there is nothing to be concerned about. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. You'll get some people that claim those sprays kill cats and 02 sensors.
Used a can of this on a Hyundai Accent not long ago. So far, my emission code hasn't come back.
I definitely question the need for this on our V6s that are VCM disabled. I've seen some really bad looking cylinders and valves that lay dormant with active VCM on 2nd Gen V6s and equivalent Honda models.
Any oil/carbon deposits released will make it's way into the exhaust/cats So I could see some trouble with that.
 

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Found this video using this product on an I-4. V6 is mentioned in the video.
Read somewhere that this product is a better product than Sea Foam.
Opinions?
Now wait, you know I like all of ya'll, even you NG.

But are you one of those SeaFoam believers? Like Flat Earthers IMHO, LOL
 

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Marketing, it's all Marketing boys and girls.
 
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That works descent, but I've found nothing that works better the gm top engine cleaner.
Aren't you a technician? How prevalent is the issue on the vehicles you see? I know the Europeans seem to still have problems with it. The Ecotec 2.4 and early Lambda 3.6 both had problems with it (but the revised 3.6 like the one in my Traverse have less occurences). I've heard Ecoboosts have the issue.

Apparently Toyota's D4-S system is quite genius in dealing with deposits, you get the benefits of DI but not the drawbacks since fuel still washes over the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now wait, you know I like all of ya'll, even you NG.

But are you one of those SeaFoam believers? Like Flat Earthers IMHO, LOL
I've never owned a can of Sea Foam. Much less use it. 😁
 
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Ssssshhhh, don't tell everyone.:). I see very little issues on Honda's, if I do, it's because it was babied. Honda uses cam timing to back wash the valves, they stay clean for the most part.

Gm, Ford, Vw all have issues that I see.
Hey, could you explain this to those of us less technically inclined? Does this mean that at high RPMs cam timing adjusts and allows to valves to be washed by gasoline ( how is this possible with direct injection)? Not sure how else to understand "babied"... Thank you for the information.
 

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I know Chevy claimed on the later High Feature 3.6 (mistakenly called it Lambda before, that's Hyundai's current V6... have one of those too!) they slightly altered the timing so the intake valve was opened just enough to have some fuel wash over it. I think it had to do with a revised spray pattern and timing.

Of course, some users are still having horrible buildup, some are having none whatsoever.
 

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But are you one of those SeaFoam believers? Like Flat Earthers IMHO, LOL
My background makes me pretty dismissive of magic fluids and additives, but here's a data point -

When I did my valves, I discovered that my intake manifold cover was thoroughly carbonized. Since I didn't have access to the appropriate technology to clean it up without any work, I was resigned to getting a solvent and doing the scrubbing.

The guy at the local parts store I like suggested SeaFoam. I needed something, it had less seriously toxic stuff in it than other options, so I bought it. It seemed to help with the job, but I can only speculate it was dissolving the tar that held the solids together.

I had half of the can left when I got done scrubbing, so I sprayed the rest into my intake duct in 5-second shots after I buttoned things up. I figured it might help clean what I didn't get, and I had no reason to keep it around. RPM's dropped when I sprayed, then came right back up. I could definitely smell the result - kind of sweet - almost certainly the isopropyl alcohol. The rest of it is just light petroleum cuts.

I didn't want to risk the new gasket, so I didn't remove the intake cover to check the results. Fuel economy is up about 10%, but that's with a newly-clear EGR system and new plugs, too.

I wouldn't buy it for it's advertised purpose, but feeding it to the car was as good a way as any to dispose of the extra, and it didn't appear to hurt anything. I figure it's one of those "if it makes you feel better and you can easily afford it, have at it" kind of things.
 

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Hey, could you explain this to those of us less technically inclined? Does this mean that at high RPMs cam timing adjusts and allows to valves to be washed by gasoline ( how is this possible with direct injection)? Not sure how else to understand "babied"... Thank you for the information
Since Honda is able to control intake and exhaust timing (roughly 50° depending on model), they can wash the valves. This is accomplished by leaving the intake valve open at the beginning on the compression stroke and injection some fuel. This pushes fuel back into the intake track, which keeps the valves clean. It also reduces compression making the engine easier to spin, helping overall fuel consumption. This takes place under low load conditions, when minimal hp is needed. I've seen multiple studies saying it takes around 20hp to keep an average sedan going 60mph on a flat road.

Babied to me is the people who always drive easy, only giving it enough gas up to speed slowy, never using passing gear, etc. Driving like grandma doesn't help your motor stay clean, instead it builds carbon. Engines need to be used, the whole tachometer is there for a reason. Does that mean you need to drive wot all the time, no. However using passing gear, doing a wot run up an on ramp, find your favorite back road and run it up to 75 under hard throttle is good for it. You won't hurt it:)
 

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Now wait, you know I like all of ya'll, even you NG.

But are you one of those SeaFoam believers? Like Flat Earthers IMHO, LOL

So are you saying that's why respected tester Project Farm's land is so flat? :D



Hey, could you explain this to those of us less technically inclined? Does this mean that at high RPMs cam timing adjusts and allows to valves to be washed by gasoline ( how is this possible with direct injection)? Not sure how else to understand "babied"... Thank you for the information.
Babied to me is the people who always drive easy, only giving it enough gas up to speed slowy, never using passing gear, etc. Driving like grandma doesn't help your motor stay clean, instead it builds carbon. Engines need to be used, the whole tachometer is there for a reason. Does that mean you need to drive wot all the time, no. However using passing gear, doing a wot run up an on ramp, find your favorite back road and run it up to 75 under hard throttle is good for it. You won't hurt it:)

In other words, vote in the poll if you haven't yet. :)

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Aren't you close enough to get the fresh stuff instead of buying it canned?
It's not compelling either way.
 

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The shape of the back of Honda 3.5 intake valves and the metal finish on the back of the valves also deter carbon deposits. There don't seem to be many issues with Honda 3.5 intake valve deposits really. The dual Toyota system sounds nice, but that's a lot of extra complexity and it seems like Honda dealt with the issue without port injection.
 

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I thought before 2016, the injector is in the intake, before the intake valve;
2016+, is direct /incylinder injection?

I would think some things would be majorly different long term with these 2 different injection systems?
 
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