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Discussion Starter #1
So I (and probably my neighbors) are about to lose our minds over my 2007 Pilot's alarm randomly going off in the middle of the night. I have read some of the other posts on this forum, and all over the interwebs for advice. First I unplugged the latch sensors in the hood and tailgate, and neither of those fixed the problem. I then checked my battery voltage (measured 12.8V when car is off) and replaced the key fob battery (all performed last Thursday). It was then good for the weekend until Sunday night it went off at 12am. Since replacing the key fob battery seemed to reduce the frequency of the alarms, I suspected the fob might be bad so I reprogrammed the key fob Monday afternoon... only for the alarm to go off on Monday night at 1:30 am.

I did see a post here were someone referenced an article in Honda Service News (March 2003 p4), and I will try some of the troubleshooting they mention. What caught my eye was how they mention the "radio security ground wire" as a potential culprit. I did install a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX head unit in December of last year... and I'm wondering if I screwed something up and am now paying for it.

Anyone have experience with a radio triggering an alarm system? Better believe that when I get home from work I am going to shake the living hell out of that radio to see if I can trigger the alarm.
 

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I got a stopped for a DUI once partly thanks to my alarm randomly going off.

I'd been out, pulled over in the city I was visiting to stop and look in my back seat for my wallet. I didn't know it, but there was a DUI checkpoint at the next corner, out of sight. The alarm went off and I was in the back seat scrambling around to find my key when the cops came up. I got the alarm off and they said the alarm and my car not having a front plate alerted them. They figured I was trying to avoid the checkpoint and did their little tests. I was fine and I didn't GET a DUI, but that dam alarm made me mad!

Hahaha. I don't know how to fix it, I feel like it's a low battery in my key fob.
 

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Are you sure it is not the Panic button's bounce which triggers it? The panic mode and alarm mode sound frightfully identical.
 

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To prove or disprove the theory of the fob battery causing the alarm to go off why not remove the battery from all the Pilot fobs? If the alarm still goes off then it’s not related to the fob.
 

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if it's an aftermarket you will see the "brain " under the dash there are two power inline fuses that can be pulled to "disable" the alarm
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
thanks for the replies guys.

I only have the factory alarm, nothing aftermarket except the radio. Right now I have just pulled the Horn Relay to prevent late night panics. From what I have read, the panic button will only trigger an alarm for 30 sec, while a sensor alarm will go off for two minutes. I haven't waited the full two minutes... but it is definitely alarming for more than 30 seconds. And you are right, I am suspicious of the key fob and have considered removing the battery... but I am worried then I won't be able to stop the alarm promptly should it go off in the middle of the night if it isn't the problem.

I did talk with some local electronics companies, and they have said that they have never heard of a new radio causing alarms to trigger.

update So the driver's side door has controls for all four power windows. The switch for the driver's window has an "auto" feature where you pull up (or down) all the way on the window switch, and you can release the switch and the window will continue to close (or open) the rest of the way automatically. Yesterday this feature stopped working. After turning the car off, going into a store, and coming out the auto feature was working again. Would this indicate something in the drivers door might be going bad? Could water be getting in or something?
 

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You won't know until you pull the panel. It's real easy: roll down the glass all the way and pull on the top edge of the panel with all 8 fingers simultaneously. Comes off with a pop.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just pop it off, eh? You make it sound easy. I'll watch a video on it and give it a shot this weekend.

Honestly, now that the horn isn't blasting, I don't really care about the problem much. I suppose whatever part is failing will get worse and hopefully be easier to troubleshoot.

Plus the suspense of not knowing whether my battery is dead every morning gives my boring life some excitement!
 

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It couldn’t hurt to pull the window master switch and make sure all the connectors are fully mated and that there isn’t any corrosion on the contacts nor any loose wiring. And if you’re doing that you might as well pull the driver door panel and verify the connections to the window control module (I think that’s what the module in the driver door is for) are solid. It takes less than 10 minutes to remove the door panel.
 

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Just pop it off, eh? You make it sound easy.
You do understand there are screws in door handles on the inside, don't you? Sorry if I made it sound like it's all on pop rivets. You'd have to pry open a few plastic caps and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a few screws under them. Once screws are out, it's like I said: pull and pops off. Check the FSM for the screw locations.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You do understand there are screws in door handles on the inside, don't you? Sorry if I made it sound like it's all on pop rivets. You'd have to pry open a few plastic caps and use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a few screws under them. Once screws are out, it's like I said: pull and pops off. Check the FSM for the screw locations.
Yea, i watched an A1Auto video on it. I see the screws. I'll start with taking out the window switch and check it out. If the problem persists I'll look into it further.

UPDATE After work today, I pulled out my radio (aftermarket) again to dig around. I did come across a brown wire (coming off the OEM harness) not being used that did have an exposed end. I guess the South Carolina heat took off the electrical tape I had wrapped around it.

Whenever I'd touch the brown wire to metal the alarm would go off... so I'm thinking that might have been what was happening? I snipped the exposed wire and wrapped heavily in elec tape. Not sure what the wire does and honestly didn't spend much time trying to figure it out.

I plugged my horn relay back in, and I guess I'll sleep with my keys the next couple days in case it decides to go off in the middle of the night.
 

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If you can get heat shrink tubing around that brown wire that would be my first choice. Bend the end in a U and heat shrink it so no exposed metal is accessible.

Second choice would be to crimp one side of an insulated butt splice onto the wire. Then pull on it to make sure the crimp is secure.

If electrical tape failed once why do you think putting more of it on won’t eventually result in the same outcome?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you can get heat shrink tubing around that brown wire that would be my first choice. Bend the end in a U and heat shrink it so no exposed metal is accessible.

Second choice would be to crimp one side of an insulated butt splice onto the wire. Then pull on it to make sure the crimp is secure.

If electrical tape failed once why do you think putting more of it on won’t eventually result in the same outcome?
Yea, I'm a moron. I'll pick up some heat shrink and do it properly Sunday. Question though.... what is the purpose of bending it into a U? Just to shorten the wire length?
 

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You’re not a moron. I just don’t want you to have a repeat of the problem or worse yet have that exposed wire short to something else which causes a more major issue. I have never had good luck with electrical tape for electrical work . . . but it works great for some other applications like securing bicycle padded grip tape to the handlebar.

Bending the wire in a U (just a half inch at the end) will give the heat shrink tubing more surface area to grip onto. Additionally when you put the exposed wire end in the middle of the heat shrink tube (heat shrink tube will be twice the length of the U wire section) then it’s well insulated. Let me know if that doesn’t make sense.
 

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Heat shrink all the way. Try to get the higher-quality tubes with thicker walls, as the market is now flooded with thin-walled tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Makes perfect sense! I've seen people do it before, just never knew why. I'm more of a mechanical guy, so trying to get more experience with electrical techniques.

Thanks for the input guys.
 
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