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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I seem to be having some issues as of late. I have a 2003 and have issues with idle and stalling when cold. At start the car will idle up just fine, as soon as it comes down to normal ~720rpms and I go to put it into gear before the car is up to temp, it stalls if I don't give it gas right away. Once warmed up this isn't an issue. I have noticed once warmed up idle rpms can vary a little, sometimes 600 -700 rpms but steady. I believe spec is ~725? Drivability and power all seem fine; no missfires or loss of power.

A list of what I have done so far:
  • Smoke checked for vacuum leaks (only a very small leak on the PCV valve; this was replaced)
  • New flow matched injectors
  • New IAC valve
  • Cleaned EGR valve and intake EGR ports
  • Valves have been adjusted. I just took off the valve covers today to double check and lash is all still in spec
  • Timing belt was replaced last month by myself, checked timing and it's still on. No jumped teeth, I even pulled upper and lower covers to verify with the stamped marks on the heads/block.
  • Cleaned throttle body
  • Checked throttle cables have slack
  • Tried the idle relearn process multiple times
  • Seafoamed the intake
  • Spark plugs replaced a couple months ago; just pulled them all and they all still look very good
  • Not DTC's
  • Long term fuel trim is ~ -0.7; when warm short term also behaves normally
  • Coolant temp sensor looks to be responding appropriately
  • New battery/cleaned all grounds/terminals

I'm kind of at a loss at what else to check. Any advice on what else to check/replace would greatly be appreciated.
 

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If the EGR valve is 18 years old, I'd replace anyway.
3 Ground cable/straps are intact corrosion free, clean connections.
Alternator and battery are good.
Air intake tube is airtight, no cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Worth a shot, just ordered one.

One thing I noticed this morning. My fuel trims were checked when the engine was warm. Checking this morning when it’s cold it’s heavy negative short term indicating running rich. Is this normal? I understand it’s in open loop before it warms up then switches to closed loop. Could this be a MAP issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update on this...still having issues.
I replaced the EGR valve and it’s still having the same symptoms. I went and smoke checked the intake again just to make sure and everything is completely sealed. Definitely not a vacuum leak. MAP sensor looks good, cleaned it and still getting about the same values. 14.5psi when the engine is off about 100 feet over sea level and responds as expected with throttle.

All the grounds have been cleaned and checked continuity. Alternator is still going strong.

Any other ideas before I bite the bullet and take it to a shop?

Thanks.
 

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Update on this...still having issues.
I replaced the EGR valve and it’s still having the same symptoms. I went and smoke checked the intake again just to make sure and everything is completely sealed. Definitely not a vacuum leak. MAP sensor looks good, cleaned it and still getting about the same values. 14.5psi when the engine is off about 100 feet over sea level and responds as expected with throttle.

All the grounds have been cleaned and checked continuity. Alternator is still going strong.

Any other ideas before I bite the bullet and take it to a shop?

Thanks.
You have cleaned the EGR passages in the intake?
PCV valve?
 

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Are your cold short trims close on bank 1 and 2? With the things you have already done, I would be checking compression cold. Aftermarket coils/plugs have been known to scatter cam/crank sensor readings causing drive ability issues. When completely cold does ect and iat values match? What's your map value at cold and hot idle, is it steady?
 

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I was going to mention the same as the OP didn’t mention the replacement plugs used nor the injectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Engine is hot right now, once things cool off I’ll check cold compression and check cold fuel trims again. I’m using Torque Pro on an old android phone. I’m going to guess sensor 2 is actually bank 2? The bank 2 sensors below show no data. I’m used to working on inlines with a single bank. Those are hot idle trims.

Plugs are NGK ZFR5FGP. Injectors were eBay rebuilds but swapped back to OEM. Coils are OEM. No change from either. I’ll probably also pull the rail and check them for leaking.

147041
 
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