[Mistaro186]

Morning everyone, I have a 2012 LX. Bought it with 24k miles in 2013. I now have shy of 50k and for the first time the check engine and VSA icon lights stayed on the dash after starting it up yesterday morning. No noticeable problems driving and after I started it up again from leaving my destination, they were off. But after starting up this morning they were on again. I'll see if they remain on when I leave work later, but any fix, help, experience or advice on why it might have started in the first place would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

[John_Clark]

There is no way to know without connecting a scan tool and pulling the codes stored in the computer.

That said, the check engine light and VSA often come on together when the oil level is low. Make sure your oil level is correct.

If oil level isn't a problem then you'll need to go further in diagnosing by getting the codes.

 

[Mistaro186]

Thanks for the reply John. I'll stop into a pep boys next time it comes on and get the code. And just to follow up, when leaving work the icons were not on. I'll also check the oil level in the morning to see if I can rule that out.

 

[yoshi115]

Check engine light and VSA light

I had the same problem on my 2007 Honda Pilot. It ended up being all 6 cylinders "misfiring," VSA light, and ABS sensor logic failure. I used a OBD2 reader to reset the throttle body to idle learn which remedied the check engine light. I did a tuneup and replaced the sparks plugs with NGK iridiums @ 100k and K&N drop in filter. The previous owner replaced the coil packs. I have only 115k miles on it now. For the VSA light and ABS sensor logic light, check on youtube on how to reset the VSA and ABS exclamation light. It is a common issue on all Hondas. Use a wire jumped to jumper 4 and jumper 9. It worked for me. It took a couple tries and make sure to follow the instructions completely. If you are not comfortable doing so, just take the car into the dealer.

Previously, I took the car to the Honda dealer. They tried to charge me $342 for a valve adjustment for the check engine light and $100 for the VSA light. I ended up spending $0. However, if the check engine light, VSA light, and ABS light (sensor logic failure error code 84-01) persist, then take it into the dealer. I tried running a OBD2 code reader from Autozone, but it only indicates check engine lights, not ABS or VSA Honda DTS codes. You may want to consider picking up a OBD2 reader from Amazon. Either a Actron, Bluedriver bluetooth, or BAFX OBD2 Reader.

 

[plplplpl]

^^^He speaks the truth. When it happened to me, having the VSA light reset by the dealer using their proprietary HDS computer set me back 90 bucks, but not knowing any better it seemed like fair dinkum at the time; however, now that I have gained knowledge through the good auspices of this forum, I'm more inclined to consider it dealer chiseling, and would try the jumper procedure, which I'm happy to pass along here for your perusal:

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/69-...-vsa-system-light-2007-pilot.html#post1170025

 

[John_Clark]

Resetting the codes doesn't "repair" anything. It only turns off the light until the system sees the problem again. It's fine to do as a troubleshooting step but don't just consider the vehicle "fixed" if you just turn off the lights.

 

[plplplpl]

Resetting the codes doesn't "repair" anything. It only turns off the light until the system sees the problem again. It's fine to do as a troubleshooting step but don't just consider the vehicle "fixed" if you just turn off the lights.

That's right of course, but in many cases, such as mine where the VSA light was on after spark plug change which replaced a fouled plug during which the mechanic had left the charger constantly connected to the battery with the key in the ignition to either the I or II position, a problem with the actual VSA system or related components (ABS, yaw sensor, whatever) was ruled out and the reset made the faulty light problem go away. I can also confirm the VSA system works properly, since for example in recent slippery freezing rain weather I've seen and felt it engage, and the light briefly comes on to indicate it when it does.

Clearing a light doesn't fix the underlying problem if there is one, but if the light is on as annoying residual collateral damage of another repair, an alternative to paying through the nose for the dealer simply to clear it with their proprietary HDS is the DIY jumper technique.

 

[John_Clark]

Yes, unplugging harness connectors with the key on or within 30-60 minutes of shut down will set a code that will need to be reset. I don't think any of the posts above were during/after any maintenance. So, a sudden light coming on is different than accidentally setting a code while working on the vehicle.

 

[plplplpl]

Yes, unplugging harness connectors with the key on or within 30-60 minutes of shut down will set a code that will need to be reset.

Good to know. 30-60 minutes or 30-60 seconds? I won't let my mechanic do that anymore. (Don't know why he did it in the first place.)

 

[Rocky]

Did restating your car shut the lights off?
If so that's similar to the experience of many first gen owners.

 

[John_Clark]

Good to know. 30-60 minutes or 30-60 seconds? I won't let my mechanic do that anymore. (Don't know why he did it in the first place.)

30-60 minutes. 60 minutes is probably on the high side but certainly 30 mins. The PCM continues to monitor things (EVAP for sure) and stays awake during that time after the vehicle has been shut off. I've experienced it first hand. A while back I unplugged my throttle body shortly after shutting off the key. I did some work on it (don't recall exactly what) but I plugged it back in before turning the key on. I still had a circuit high code set (usually means an open in the circuit--obviously due to unplugging it) for the throttle body and had to reset it even though I never turned on the key with it unplugged.

Its not a big deal...just know if you are going to unplug things shortly after shutting off the key you may set some codes. If you disconnect the battery you won't set the codes, also because disconnecting the battery resets the codes.

 

[plplplpl]

As I explained when it happened a couple of years ago, after changing spark plugs, the orange VSA warning light /!\ (exclamation mark inside a triangle) came on as soon as I started the engine and remained on. About 30 seconds later, the actual orange-letter VSA light came on and remained on. This happened every time I started the Pilot, every day. I didn't know about the jumper method then, so I resorted to taking it to the dealer. I didn't think to try to leave the battery disconnected for a while to see if that would do it.

 

[Mistaro186]

Thanks to everyone that chimed in on my issue. So far the VSA and check engine lights has not come back on for the last 3 days. And I drive everyday. Hopefully it'll stay off, but if not, I have plenty of troubleshooting methods to go by thanks to all off the helpful information everyone has shared. Again, thank you!

 

[PSquared]

I'll see if they remain on when I leave work later, but any fix, help, experience or advice on why it might have started in the first place would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Not sure if your issue was related to the CEL's OBD2 code was related to misfiring banks/bad spark plugs, but my same dash lights (steady CEL/VSA; VTM-4 intermittently) brought back 3 hits of DTC P0302 (misfiring of bank 2) and found the published Technical Service Bulletins, with the extended powertrain warranty to 8 years/unlimited mileage, as a result from a Class Action Settlement with American Honda (Soto et al vs. American Honda Motor Co Inc. in 2013).

My original post with bad plug pic and the most recent TBS 13-082 (for Pilot I could find) PDF is here (replace the two [dot] with . for live url):

www[dot]piloteers[dot]org/forums/82-2012-2015-pilot/134834-fouled-spark-plugs-bank-2-already-57k-dtc-p0302.html

since I am not sure what the Trackback URL is for... Hope this helps!

 

[silvertank07]

Check engine light and VSA light

You may want to consider picking up a OBD2 reader from Amazon. Either a Actron,

I just purchased an Actron scanner.

Amazon.com

It read the problem and cleared the codes very easily. Thanks for the help!

 

[smokedoutwhiteboy420]

I am currently leasing a 2013 Honda pilot 184000 miles on it and was driving on down the road when all three of the lights came on check engine light was flashing and when accelerating from idle was slow to accelerate and would jump real hard from 2 to 3 (20to45mph) after that it was fine, if I let my foot off gas then re-engaged the pedal it would stop the jumping any clues on any Ideas on what I can do to fix the problem? Thanks

 

[dr bob]

Those lights are lit together for a number of fault conditions. Better auto parts stores will plug a diagnostic tool into the car for free and deliver a list of the stored fault codes. Write Those Down. The parts place may give you descriptions of the fault code causes too. Bring the codes here and share them, so our team of experts can help you determine how best to solve the underlying problems.

Fault codes are part of the OBD (OnBoard Diagnostic) system built into cars starting around 1995 model year give or take. The stored codes can tell you about a loose gas cap, or a potentially fatal flaw like low oil pressure or similar. Get the diagnostic codes read ASAP, so you don't inadvertently do even more damage by driving the car.

And -- Welcome to Piloteers!

 

[smokedoutwhiteboy420]

Those lights are lit together for a number of fault conditions. Better auto parts stores will plug a diagnostic tool into the car for free and deliver a list of the stored fault codes. Write Those Down. The parts place may give you descriptions of the fault code causes too. Bring the codes here and share them, so our team of experts can help you determine how best to solve the underlying problems.

Fault codes are part of the OBD (OnBoard Diagnostic) system built into cars starting around 1995 model year give or take. The stored codes can tell you about a loose gas cap, or a potentially fatal flaw like low oil pressure or similar. Get the diagnostic codes read ASAP, so you don't inadvertently do even more damage by driving the car.

And -- Welcome to Piloteers!

Okay I will for sure get it hooked up I know when my mechanic diagnosed it a valve timing needs to be adjusted and catalytic converters are bad. Car warranty I've purchased through dealership doesn't want to cover to get either one of those problems fixed pretty costly repair but now that this happened yesterday there's no telling what else that messed up car drives fine now after I shut it off next morning started up no vtm light or vsa light check engine light still on

 

[stampintina]

Okay I will for sure get it hooked up I know when my mechanic diagnosed it a valve timing needs to be adjusted and catalytic converters are bad. Car warranty I've purchased through dealership doesn't want to cover to get either one of those problems fixed pretty costly repair but now that this happened yesterday there's no telling what else that messed up car drives fine now after I shut it off next morning started up no vtm light or vsa light check engine light still on

Did you figure out this problem? I have the same right now