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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I’m about to change my fuel injectors due to a code p430/304 I keep getting.
It got so bad a couple days ago I even got all the christmas lights on. VSA,TSA,AWD, etc, etc...
anyways, I had already order my injector kit and fuel joint pipe from college hills Honda.
I got the manual ready, tools, and the Pete’s garage YouTube video.

I might be overthinking it, but in the box there was a syringe with polyethylene glycol 400. 0.5 ml
its not much, but it says it’s for the installation of the joint pipe.

might be a stupid question already, but is it for lubing the threads on the pipe?
or for cleaning the inside. Has anybody done this before?

Pete doesn’t say anything on the video about it, he just blows the pipe and rails with air.
manual doesn’t say anything either...
Ill proceed with the installation and ignore it I guess.
 

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2016 EXL AWD Nav with sensing , 2008 Corolla SE
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Probably for lubing the joints and the orings as ethylene glycol is very slippery. You will not require much for each joint. Also they may use it on the injector seals to make them easier to insert into the bores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes you are probably right. Like I said I’m overthinking it. The manual said to lube orings and seals with fresh oil. That’s why I got confused and didn’t seem to find use for the PEG400. But thanks for the response. It definetely makes sense to lube the joints with that.

Im about to go outside start working on it.
will keep this thread posted.
 

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Hello everyone, I’m about to change my fuel injectors due to a code p430/304 I keep getting.
It got so bad a couple days ago I even got all the christmas lights on. VSA,TSA,AWD, etc, etc...
anyways, I had already order my injector kit and fuel joint pipe from college hills Honda.
I got the manual ready, tools, and the Pete’s garage YouTube video.

I might be overthinking it, but in the box there was a syringe with polyethylene glycol 400. 0.5 ml
its not much, but it says it’s for the installation of the joint pipe.

might be a stupid question already, but is it for lubing the threads on the pipe?
or for cleaning the inside. Has anybody done this before?

Pete doesn’t say anything on the video about it, he just blows the pipe and rails with air.
manual doesn’t say anything either...
Ill proceed with the installation and ignore it I guess.
I just completed this repair on my 2016 Pilot Elite at 102k miles. Same set of error messages except a DTC of P0303. After replacing all spark plugs and cop’s (especially cylinder 3 per code) and although it was time, it did not fix my problem. After learning on this forum that is was most likely an injector issue, I replaced all injectors with new Honda OEM ones. I used existing fuel rail. This works! Messages and DTC went away. Problem solved!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How long has it been since you tried this repair? For me it seems to be working fine As well. All codes are gone too.
my only concern is that there was lots of carbon build up behind the intake valves.
I didnt even mess with that. didn’t want to open a can of worms. I did clean the throttle body. injectors were dirty For sure, specially the bank 2 #4. Hence the P304 code
I’m sure it will come back to hunt me in a few thousand miles.
we’ll see how long this repair lasts for me.
 

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How long has it been since you tried this repair? For me it seems to be working fine As well. All codes are gone too.
my only concern is that there was lots of carbon build up behind the intake valves.
I didnt even mess with that. didn’t want to open a can of worms. I did clean the throttle body. injectors were dirty For sure, specially the bank 2 #4. Hence the P304 code
I’m sure it will come back to hunt me in a few thousand miles.
we’ll see how long this repair lasts for me.
It’s been over a month now since the repairs were completed. I, too, didn’t mess with the valves but did clean the throttle body as well. The original injectors were definitely dirty with carbon deposits. At over 100K miles, she runs like new now so I think problem has been fixed. Also, noticed that the permanent DTC code P0303 that I had went away as soon as I fixed it (did not have to erase the code).
 

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Glorificatus Oleum Mutante
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Is your VCM disabled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It’s been over a month now since the repairs were completed. I, too, didn’t mess with the valves but did clean the throttle body as well. The original injectors were definitely dirty with carbon deposits. At over 100K miles, she runs like new now so I think problem has been fixed. Also, noticed that the permanent DTC code P0303 that I had went away as soon as I fixed it (did not have to erase the code).
I’ve heard about sandblasting or walnut blasting. Hopefully I won’t need it for at least 50k miles more.
Mine is a 2016 exl with 80k miles. I’ve only had it for 3 weeks. Dealer replaced an O2 sensor and cleared the codes. 3 days after the purchase I got the emission light. Luckily I found this forum, other wise I couldn’t have figured it out on my own. I bought “as is“ so it’s all on me.
thanks ya’ll for your help.
 

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Quick question, how is the fuel economy after disabling the VCM? im doing 29mpg mostly highway miles. so is not bad at all.
Some have said they have lost 1 mpg. I think it's half that. I disable the VCM for reliability and longevity. The money you save now is quickly swallowed up with a major repair. Even more so if your driving a 3rd Gen and this function is causing stress on the Engine mounts and 6-speed transmission.
 

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So does that cause the injectors to go bad prematurely?
An operational VCM causes certain cylinders to lay dormant when coasting, maintaing speed or in cruise. The valves are open, allowing oil and it's vapors to travel into your exhaust clogging Cats and EGR valve. Burned oil deposits build up on spark plugs, valves and injectors. Worst cases, piston rings become caked and do not function properly, which lead to cylinder wall scoring. Valves become caked and do not close fully. A stuck/caked valve can be burned leading to poor compression in this/these cylinders. Worst case.
 
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I’ve heard about sandblasting or walnut blasting. Hopefully I won’t need it for at least 50k miles more.
Mine is a 2016 exl with 80k miles. I’ve only had it for 3 weeks. Dealer replaced an O2 sensor and cleared the codes. 3 days after the purchase I got the emission light. Luckily I found this forum, other wise I couldn’t have figured it out on my own. I bought “as is“ so it’s all on me.
thanks ya’ll for your help.
I cured my P0420 and P0430 codes by disabling the VCM. 6 cylinders firing 100% will end your troubles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I cured my P0420 and P0430 codes by disabling the VCM. 6 cylinders firing 100% will end your troubles.
Thanks for the info. I haven’t had the pilot for that long. First project I had was adding the hitch, atf cooler and harness. But then the emissions system made me postpone it.
Now my next project will be disabling the VCM. I bought the pilot with 80k thinking Hondas are 200k miles cars at least. Doesn’t seem it will last that long unless i do that.
 
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