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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a CEL and my little Bluetooth OBD2 scanner connected to the Torque app on my phone indicated a P2254 code. Curiously, a search of this forum turns up no P2254 codes whatsoever; I can't believe I'm making Piloteers history by being the first guy with this code. :nerd:

Be that as it may, a P2254 code points to an O2 Sensor Negative Current Ctrl Circ/Open Bank 2 Sensor 1, it seems.

P2254 - OBD-II Trouble Code | BestRide.com

If we're talking OEM, that part would be NTK 24302, unless I'm mistaken.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1643960&cc=1432632&jsn=24

..or equivalent...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...32,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

I'm thinking I'd stick with OEM for something like an oxygen sensor, though.

Has anyone dealt with this or changed it out on a Pilot? Closest I could find was this guy on a 2008 Oddy.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
  • Last night, wife suggested to take it to a car wash to clean the road salt calcium dust out of the O2 sensor. Date night at the gas station's tunnel of love. :12::10:
  • Was about to pull the trigger on the part already in my Rockauto cart.
  • Went out for a drive after lunch today and the the CEL was still there.
  • Started the Pilot up to come back home for dinner and the CEL was gone. Scanned with Bluetooth OBD2 and P2254 was still in memory. Cleared it with Torque app.
  • Will keep an eye out over the next days and weeks if it pops up again.
  • Wife insists she fixed it with her car wash idea. :27::rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The good news is the actual CEL in the dash has not come back on. :)

However, my OCD nature getting the best of me, when I hook up the the Bluetooth OBD2 reader to my Torque app and look for codes, the P2254 code comes up again. I clear it using essentially this method:


...but after the next drive I search for codes again with Torque and the P2254 keeps appearing. (Torque does show a disclaimer to the effect that some cleared codes may remain and a dealer's computer may be necessary to completely eradicate them, or words to that effect.) Obviously, there is also a message that actually fixing the problem will keep the code from coming back.

Should I ...?


  • Bite the bullet right away and order the NTK O2 sensor still in my Rockauto cart?
  • Unplug the negative battery cable, wait for a half an hour, then reconnect it and see if that clears the code from the ECU?
  • Try this guy's trick of pulling then reinserting the ECU fuse, so as to quickly reset the ECU without cutting power to everything else and therefore having to reset the radio, auto windows, etc? According to the owner's manual attached below, the ECU fuse is a 15A in the no. 6 location of the driver's side interior fuse box.
  • Drive about 60 miles (100kms) as some say that's what will finally get a cleared code not to come back?
  • Just ignore it until if and when the CEL reappears?
 

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Negative circuit would be ground connection I reckon.
You should be able to check ground from the sensor plug with a multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Negative circuit would be ground connection I reckon.
You should be able to check ground from the sensor plug with a multimeter.
Thanks, thinking of maybe doing that after I try pulling the ECU fuse method. I just pulled it and will wait until after dinner to put it back in. Have my doubts it will work, but hey it's an easy enough thing to try first. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks, thinking of maybe doing that after I try pulling the ECU fuse method. I just pulled it and will wait until after dinner to put it back in. Have my doubts it will work, but hey it's an easy enough thing to try first. :smile:
Yeah, no, that didn't work. :frown:


Still no sign of the CEL, though, only the P2254 code that keeps coming back in the Torque app via the Bluetooth OBD-II scanner even though I keep clearing it. But no CEL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
CEL came on again. This time when I cleared it with Torque, I turned the key in the ignition to II starting from the Off position, rather than with the engine running. This time I heard some clicking coming from perhaps somewhere around behind the glove box as the code was being cleared. Neither the CEL nor the code came back when I restarted the car right afterward.

However, at this point I've ordered the part; it's on its way: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...1432632&jsn=24

What's puzzling is that the engine runs super smooth.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1643960&cc=1432632&jsn=24
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Code did come back once while the part was in transit.

However, since the part (CAD$ 171.10) arrived about midweek last week, neither the CEL nor the code has reappeared. Idn't it always the way? :bangh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The code has come back a couple of times in the past couple of weeks, especially after highway driving, I've noticed. I even got a CEL this evening. I was thinking of returning the oxygen sensor before the RockAuto 30-day window ran out if it didn't come back on, but now I'm going to install it in the next few days, probably mid-week next week. Engine still runs perfectly smooth, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Follow-up: Don't want to jinx it but since the O2 sensor was replaced a couple of weeks ago, P2254 code is gone and hasn't come back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Hope my fix works for you, too. The P2254 code has never come back after I changed that Bank 2 Sensor 1. It's just behind the top half of the radiator, so access is easy. The hardest part was finding a well-hidden tab on the underside by feel to release it. I cussed for about half an hour, but once I found it and figured it out, it was a forehead slap moment.
143448



One last reminder which applies to both the front and rear sensors. The connectors are mounted to a steel bracket. You must removed the connectors from the steel bracket with the small screwdriver. If you don't, there is not way to get the connectors apart. Trust me, I tried for an hour the first time. Didn't realize the mount acts as a stop to prevent the connectors from coming apart. Kid of a fail safe device. I don't have a good picture of this. But JUST REMEMBER TO REMOVE CONNECTORS FROM THE BRACKET before trying to disconnect them.
 

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Hope my fix works for you, too. The P2254 code has never come back after I changed that Bank 2 Sensor 1. It's just behind the top half of the radiator, so access is easy. The hardest part was finding a well-hidden tab on the underside by feel to release it. I cussed for about half an hour, but once I found it and figured it out, it was a forehead slap moment. View attachment 143448
Just replaced the B2S1. I don't have the fancy removal tool, but I did have an extra 7/8 wrench, so I cut it in half for the tight space. No more codes (P0154 and P2254) and it got rid of the VTM-4 code. Now, I just need to adjust the valves to correct all of the misfires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Always good to hear about a success. (y)
 
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