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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Over time, both of the the poorly designed key bodies have broken and I have replaced them with stronger aftermarket shells. Recently the #1 key remote stopped working so I ordered the part from honda and programmed it along with the other key and they both work fine except... the key with the new remote guts won't allow the car to run after it's started. Does the remote part inside the key house the security chip? Can it be swapped from the old remote or do I need to get the new remote programmed at the dealer?
 

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I will take a stab at this.. although I may have some details incorrect. At first it sounded like the newly programmed #1 key was not programmed correctly. For #1 key you ordered a new shell & a new chip? Yes BTW the remote part houses the security chip. Sounds like you may have inadvertently created a programming problem. Honda allows a set amount of similar key "security codings" to reside in your ECU. 2 master keys and a valet I believe. so if you add another one, one of the original gets "kicked off". Hopefully someone with more "Key" experience answers. In my Pilot. I just went down that road. I went totally after market. here is what I did, it worked. BUT it kicked my Valet key Off the ECU.
  1. Ebay buy a Fob/Blank key with an uncoded transponder in it $30 Replacement Key Fobs and Keyless Entry Remotes
  2. Cut the blank key to match a good key $20 (certain ACE hardware stores will do this)
  3. Program the Keyless Entry part of the fob ( do this yourself ... no cost)
  4. Re-program the Security Chip/transponder/Immobilizer = with a $30 Easy Key Maker tool..yes its from China.... and it actually worked!
but then as mentioned.. my valet key no longer works.
Good Luck.. Happy learning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll try to clarify:

#2 key was fine but broken case so I swapped the key (just the metal part) and the remote to the new shell. I didn't see any little chip to swap and this key works fine. The only thing new about it is the plastic shell.

#1 key also had a broken shell but was glued together. Recently the remote stopped working consistently then died all together. A new battery didn't help. Little light didn't even come on. I ordered a new #1 remote (just the part with buttons and battery and had a spare aftermarket shell. I put the #1 key and new remote into the new shell. I programmed both remotes with the turn key on/off 3 times method and they both work fine to activate the doors and hatch but when I start the car with the #1 key it immediately stalls.

Because of this, I am assuming the "security chip" is actually in the remote, not glued into the shell of the key since the other key works fine and the only difference is the new remote. I will look into your key programmer tool and maybe that fixes my issue. It would be nice to get confirmation and if it's possible to somehow swap said chip from old remote to new.
 

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I will take a stab at this.. although I may have some details incorrect. At first it sounded like the newly programmed #1 key was not programmed correctly. For #1 key you ordered a new shell & a new chip? Yes BTW the remote part houses the security chip. Sounds like you may have inadvertently created a programming problem. Honda allows a set amount of similar key "security codings" to reside in your ECU. 2 master keys and a valet I believe. so if you add another one, one of the original gets "kicked off". Hopefully someone with more "Key" experience answers. In my Pilot. I just went down that road. I went totally after market. here is what I did, it worked. BUT it kicked my Valet key Off the ECU.
  1. Ebay buy a Fob/Blank key with an uncoded transponder in it $30 Replacement Key Fobs and Keyless Entry Remotes
  2. Cut the blank key to match a good key $20 (certain ACE hardware stores will do this)
  3. Program the Keyless Entry part of the fob ( do this yourself ... no cost)
  4. Re-program the Security Chip/transponder/Immobilizer = with a $30 Easy Key Maker tool..yes its from China.... and it actually worked!
but then as mentioned.. my valet key no longer works.
Good Luck.. Happy learning.
OK, now I have to try my Valet key to see if it still works too! I recently programmed another key with one of the chip programmer/key makers from China.
* On the pdf directions on the site from the one I got, it also has directions for programming that key also.
Check it out, yours should too?
 
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OK, now I have to try my Valet key to see if it still works too! I recently programmed another key with one of the chip programmer/key makers from China.
* On the pdf directions on the site from the one I got, it also has directions for programming that key also.
Check it out, yours should too?
Cant find the EastKeymaker Directions for Valet, can you help? I have directions for Transponder key & Smart key... one of those perhaps for the valet or.... (thanks)
 

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Cant find the EastKeymaker Directions for Valet, can you help? I have directions for Transponder key & Smart key... one of those perhaps for the valet or.... (thanks)
Hey John,

So, getting in the 08 this morning coming to work, I decided to try my Valet Key. (I think that is what they call the 'smart key'?)
It didn't work! Would crank, no start.

I now realize- go with me on this one- I remember reading somewhere that you have to 're program- all the keys at once.
Even though I used my still working key to program the new key, and now both those keys work, the valet key was not also re programmed- and does not start it now. It must change the signal somehow.

I don't have it in front of me now, and didn't read thru it when I programmed my new key- which works fine now.

Now I think there is a way to 're program' the Valet key, and hopefully the others will still work.

If you read this message this morning, I'll try and find the pdf and download it and post it. I am at work right now.

I'll try and get back this morning of today. I need to know this too- I want my Valet key to work too- even though I never use it. LOL

*** Oh, without reading/finding it online yet. I remember now that the switch on the end of the programmer box that goes in the OBD port has to be on the other side?
I don't have the programmer with me at work, but here is the one I bought off Amazon. They are all pretty much the same I think.
 

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OK, on that page, scroll down on the left side and look for this:

Technical Specification
Installation Manual [PDF ]
User Manual [PDF ]

That is the pdf's for the instrucitions, etc.

I actually also got a lot from reading the questions and answers on that page below.

Hope this helps-
Todd

** After reading the 'smart key' instructions, maybe this is not the Valet key.
I'm going to try it when I get home or soon.
I'm thinking maybe I have to program them all at once like the transponder key says.
 
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Oh yeah, one more thing, I did not have the 'obd port key maker' when I programmed the 'lock/unlock' buttons on the new key. After I finally had that key cut, and then programmed- the 'lock/unlock' buttons still worked.

I think I looked online, and/or in the owners manual for those directions.
My point is- nothing was plugged in to the obd port when I programmed the lock/unlock part.
 
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OK, I looked up whata 'Smart Key' is. I obviously don't have one.

The Smart Entry System is a newer technology feature that makes it possible to lock and unlock your vehicle without using a key or a key fob. ... With the Smart Entry System, it's okay to leave the key fob in your pocket or purse. As long as it is within 32 inches of the vehicle, the system will work correctly.

So, back to square one. I believe the Valet key chip must be re programmed when you re program the other keys. It says you can do up to 6 keys IIRC.
 
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Hey John,

So, getting in the 08 this morning coming to work, I decided to try my Valet Key. (I think that is what they call the 'smart key'?)
It didn't work! Would crank, no start.

I now realize- go with me on this one- I remember reading somewhere that you have to 're program- all the keys at once.
Even though I used my still working key to program the new key, and now both those keys work, the valet key was not also re programmed- and does not start it now. It must change the signal somehow.

I don't have it in front of me now, and didn't read thru it when I programmed my new key- which works fine now.

Now I think there is a way to 're program' the Valet key, and hopefully the others will still work.

If you read this message this morning, I'll try and find the pdf and download it and post it. I am at work right now.

I'll try and get back this morning of today. I need to know this too- I want my Valet key to work too- even though I never use it. LOL

*** Oh, without reading/finding it online yet. I remember now that the switch on the end of the programmer box that goes in the OBD port has to be on the other side?
I don't have the programmer with me at work, but here is the one I bought off Amazon. They are all pretty much the same I think.
Thanks for the leg work!, Now that you jog my 62 year old memory, I do not think I had with me ( on my person) my 1 remaining master Key with me when I programmed my "Ebay" key. hmmm And I'll bet my "lost" 2nd master key, although still lost, is still occupying a "Code "slot" in the ECU . maybe thats why there is no "room" in the ECU. whereas my 2009 BMW has 10 ECU slot available
 

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Mant aftermarket Honda keys have a small black wedge of plastic--about 3mm x 5mm x 2mm--in the case which interacts with the security detection sensor at the column key lock. The wedge isn't labeled and just rests (not glued) beside the fob/battery module in the case. Without the wedge, the FOB unlock/locks/opens gate, and the engine starts, but it will stop 5 sec later. Oh, and the dash security light flashes.
 

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Mant aftermarket Honda keys have a small black wedge of plastic--about 3mm x 5mm x 2mm--in the case which interacts with the security detection sensor at the column key lock. The wedge isn't labeled and just rests (not glued) beside the fob/battery module in the case. Without the wedge, the FOB unlock/locks/opens gate, and the engine starts, but it will stop 5 sec later. Oh, and the dash security light flashes.
The Chip, you're calling a wedge, has to be programmed for the vehicle- a new one anyways.
My Pilot does not even start when it does not have a good/programmed chip in the key.
I have heard some years will start as you say, but shut down immediately too, as you say.
 

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Does the remote part inside the key house the security chip? Can it be swapped from the old remote or do I need to get the new remote programmed at the dealer?
Yes, Yes, and Yes.
The key needs the properly programmed immobilizer chip to run.
You can use one from a known existing key, you can have a dealer do it, or you can buy the 'Key Maker' like I did and program the newly cut key - it has to have a blank immobilizer chip in it as well. Most of the aftermarket ones do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys. I was able to program the key with my new remote using the easy key maker. Saved me a few bucks. I tried to get the valet key to work but also had no luck. I guess you need the real deal tool to get everything set up properly but I really don't care about the valet key. To be clear though, there's no wedge/chip or anything in my '11 touring key. Inside the "shell" there's the remote unit and the key itself. I assume since the only thing that was "new" to me was the remote (geniune honda part) so that must house the proximity chip which I was able to program with the tool. All is well finally, I spent $10 for the new housings, $40 for the new remote and $25 for the programmer. I now have two working keys that aren't in cracked cases anymore.
 

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Thanks guys. I was able to program the key with my new remote using the easy key maker. Saved me a few bucks. I tried to get the valet key to work but also had no luck. I guess you need the real deal tool to get everything set up properly but I really don't care about the valet key. To be clear though, there's no wedge/chip or anything in my '11 touring key. Inside the "shell" there's the remote unit and the key itself. I assume since the only thing that was "new" to me was the remote (geniune honda part) so that must house the proximity chip which I was able to program with the tool. All is well finally, I spent $10 for the new housings, $40 for the new remote and $25 for the programmer. I now have two working keys that aren't in cracked cases anymore.
When I bought my 2011 pilot it only came with 1 key. So I bought remotes and blank keys on eBay genuine parts just cheaper than the dealership they wanted $375 for two extra keys. Locksmith wanted $400 per key. I bought my keys, spent $35 to cut them, and $50 program both of them to the car and IMMO. Like you I didn't care about the Valet.
 

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When I bought my 2011 pilot it only came with 1 key. So I bought remotes and blank keys on eBay genuine parts just cheaper than the dealership they wanted $375 for two extra keys. Locksmith wanted $400 per key. I bought my keys, spent $35 to cut them, and $50 program both of them to the car and IMMO. Like you I didn't care about the Valet.
I did the same.
I had to go to Honda to get the immobilizer chip programmed, that was many years ago, maybe that service is more common now?

Rather than do the big remote/key unit. I cut the metal key off of the remote, kept the remote on the keychain, bought "normal" (nonremote) key blanks that have the chip imbedded in the plastic. Now I can go swimming with my key in my pocket, and still unlock the car.

Having a separate remote from the key is also good if you valet you car. If you can find your car in the parking garage you can still unlock the car to access contents using the remote.
 
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