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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

I am moving from Vancouver to the Yukon. There is a serious cold wave around here with -47c (craziness)! Very close to my destination (the last 500km), my transmission 'apparently' broke. The auto repair shop could not spend time to investigate and according to them the 'rod' is broken (it was not a mechanic on the phone, that person did not know the name of this part probably). I love this car and I have invested in this pilot of 2005 (new all suspensions, all complete breaking system, new super-duper winter tires). When I bought it, its engine had been replaced with a used one. Now the engine has only 100k on it.

1) Do you think it is possible to repair the transmission or to replace it ?

2) What is an approximate cost for it (that a repair shop could ask me) ?

3) Would there be some issue for the repair shop to find part? (any idea?)

4) Could the engine be damaged?

5) Some people tell me that I should forget about it and think about another second car (but similar second hand car are not cheap).

What do you think?

Thanks
 

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@djsick ...too bad about the trans. Hopefully the repair shop is the right repair shop for the job. Not familiar with any "rods" in the trans nor how it could be determined. It might save some bucks getting a used trans but regardless the labor will be a big part of it. Just curious whether the trans gave indications of imminent failure, codes, improper maintenance etc. Post up the resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got more information... Actually they meant the "rad" for radiator (sorry, English is not my mother tongue). So the radiator having broke, impact the cooling for the transmission which failed (broke, no-one knows).
 

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Search for "strawberry milkshake" on this forum. Be sitting down when you do. :(

You'll almost certainly be needing a new transmission, I'm sorry to say. And a new "rad."
 

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Some on this forum have had luck getting their Pilot roadworthy, after a pink milkshake event, without replacing the transmission. The lousy part is that to make this determination the radiator will need to be replaced and the tranny drain & filled at least 3 times. If you drove the Pilot more than a few miles after the pink milkshake the transmission is probably dead.
Sorry this happened to your Pilot.
 
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given you are moving to a very extreme climate area, I don’t think I’d keep this car unless you could be 100% sure it will last. I am sure parts and labor will be more expensive there and you can’t really afford a breakdown. May be time to cut your losses and buy something a little more reliable.

These 03-05 Pilots are known for extremely unreliable transmissions. Even if after a ton of drain and filling it doesn’t slip, I personally think it will still be damaged to some extent and on borrowed time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for your replies!

People tells me that I should get rid of it... I bought it 20k ago and I spent so much because I wanted to keep it. Previous owner put a used engine with 80k only, new belt was put and now it has 100k on the used engine (267k total). Myself I put complete new suspensions (all!), complete new brake (all, discs, etc.), A/c recharged and the best winter tire I ever had in my life (Sumitomo - ice edge). I bought a "Engine Block Heater" and a Battery blanket that I had planned to install at my destination. The car is ready for the north or almost.

When I look at second hand car on Kijiji (where everyone post here), similar car to mine are at least 7k or 8k canadian dollars. And who knows what will break soon if I get one of those (people also sell car to avoid big maintenance sometime... or more often). I would prefer to spend 'hopefully' less than for the repair.

I don't know if you can see this but this is result of car available in Whitehorse, which are:
  • Under 180.000km
  • From 2005 and older
  • Suv type
Nothing that look interesting to me... or too expensive what it is... Mmmh.

Kijiji Canada
 

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I had an 05 with the transmission fluid leaked big time at a stop light this summer. I had it towed to my house and upon my careful investigation, I found out that the source of leakage was where the transmission cooler and the radiator met. Luckily, the cooler had broken just before it entered the radiator. But initially, I had to be sure that there was no mixing of coolant and tranny fluid that had taken place inside the radiator and/or transmission. First, I carefully examined the radiator--opened the rad cap and looked for mixing (strawberry milkshake color--it would have been very conspicuous). Then I drained the coolant and further determined that no mixing took place. Next, I drained the remaining tranny fluid (less than a quart left). This, too revealed no hint of mixing. I then made a decision (over several days) to get it towed to a local shop to have the radiator replaced. I had the radiator shipped to me online. Radiator cost me $130, 2 gal tranny fluids, 2 gallons coolant. I spent around $600 total ($400 labor). Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you Beato1, this was an EXTREMELY Helpful comment... and it gives me hope!

I am thinking to make a summary of your comments and print it and hand it to the mechanic. It might help him as well (we are never too knowledgeable!).

Jerome
 

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Thank you Beato1, this was an EXTREMELY Helpful comment... and it gives me hope!

I am thinking to make a summary of your comments and print it and hand it to the mechanic. It might help him as well (we are never too knowledgeable!).

Jerome
You're welcome! I already summarized it (it was much longer when I first posted it here). Thanks.
 

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If you go beato1's route and everything checks out that there's no strawberry milkshake (mixing of coolant and ATF), here's a good place to order a replacement radiator. Go with a Denso, a Spectra or one with a little heart next to it. Get hoses and a good thermostat while you're at it.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
You are so nice guys!

(When I wrote, make a summary of you comments... I meant basically print out all your reponses).

Finger crossed! I will keep you updated!
 

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If you end up ordering from Rockauto, don't forget to use the Piloteers 5% discount code.

5% Discount Code: 6F3FAEF349C046
Expires: February 12, 2020

 

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Yes, please let us know. The knowledge we gain here are only reinforced and become more usedul to everyone because of the experience we’ve learned from and through others. Thanks and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Consider using the extreme cold weather version of Honda coolant:
Hi xGS,

Do you think it is something you add (mix) with the normal anti-freeze fluide (like an additive) or is-it to use solely. That bottle is less than a liter I am not so sure. Thx!
 

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Hi xGS,

Do you think it is something you add (mix) with the normal anti-freeze fluide (like an additive) or is-it to use solely. That bottle is less than a liter I am not so sure. Thx!
The idea is simply to get your concentration up to 60% for extreme cold climates. This is just concentrated normal coolant. They have instructions on the accord, for instance, to prepare it for extreme cold by adding a block heater then using 1.6L of concentrate, and 50/50 mix for the rest of the capacity.... specific to this vehicle. How much you need to reach 60% would vary on total system capacity of each vehicle.


"Our normal engine coolant—Longlife Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a 50% concentration of antifreeze and water. It’s formulated to work straight from the jug at temperatures as low as -34°F. But below that temperature, the coolant freezes up. And not even an accessory block heater can prevent it from doing so. That’s where Extreme Cold Weather Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 comes in. When properly measured and added to the engine coolant, it raises the antifreeze concentration to 60%, which lowers the coolant freezing point to -62°F. And it does this without affecting the original cooling system service interval, too.

The instructions for using this new coolant are on the back of the bottle.
1. Look up the total engine coolant capacity for the vehicle that you’re working on (see the applicable S/M or ISIS). You need to replace 20% of that capacity with Extreme Cold Weather Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2.
2. Remove the calculated amount of engine coolant from the radiator, and replace that amount with Extreme Cold Weather Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 concentrate.
3. If needed, add Honda 50/50 Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 until the coolant level reaches the base of the filler neck.

The whole idea is to get to Honda's recommendation of 60/40 glycol/water, to protect beyond -34°F, down to -62°F.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok! I got news...

I got my car towed from Watson Lake, the coldest place in Canada at that time apparently, -47c (close to -50c)... to Whitehorse (5hours drive! 1100cad!, I had all my belonging in the car, I had no choice). No knowing the city (first time in Yukon) I chose the best I could Auto Repair shop on internet and ended up with a very formal and expensive repair shop (similar to Honda dealer), 'Integra Tire and Auto Service'. I wish I knew it was not my plan but I wanted a place with good mechanic and that one had good reviews. They did not want to install any part that would not be from them, which sucks... but at least they will get it down quickly and they seem very efficient. I am trapped because I can not even move my car to another garage so I am committed to repair it there.
Today, they checked the car, and they concluded exactly what you suggested.... it is the classic problem with the radiator... They showed the junction where it broke and I told them about this weakness on the model (they did not know). The transmission fluid was gone completely (now it has been sitting for almost a week so...). They noticed some leaks in the steering system too. I asked for a Spectra Radiator and the right coolant for this weather (I will make sure that use some extreme weather coolant as well and check what thermostat brand they used on Monday). They will put a new battery (750 cold crank) and make an oil change for very cold weather as well. The bill is very high... (and it is hoping the transmission is ok)... 3300cad. Boom Shakalaka ! It is a big difference from the 800cad (600dol) of [Beato1] (of course, his do not includes the oil change, the new battery and the probably expensive Steering system leaking)...

I made a summary of your comments on another document and handed to the mechanic ( your username are not shown). I am sure it will help him!
 

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"They showed the junction where it broke". Hmm, does this mean the leak happened outside the radiator? Mine still had a coolant filled radiator but with less than a quart of tranny fluid left (despite sitting in front of my house for several days). When I saw this (tranny line outside radiator was broken), I slowly deduced that there was hope of no mixing of fluids (coolant and tranny). And I further concluded it by checking the fluids for strawberry color. Did they mentioned damage in the transmission? Thanks.
 
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