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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This little green buddy broke when I was trying to get the CV loose. What do I google to find the replacement part?

Thanks!
135433
 

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I'm replacing that same CV shaft in a week or two as the inner boot has been leaking for several years and I'm tired of dealing with it. Since it's attached to intermediate shaft bearing assembly I just wanted to know how difficult it was to separate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks so much for IDing that!

separating the CV from the intermediate shaft is what’s currently giving me the run around. Being on jack stands I don’t have a good angle to get my crowbar in to pop the CV out. I’m probably going to have to borrow a slide hammer from autozone. The other idea I saw on here was to wrap one end of some chain around the CV and the other around your sledgehammer to approximate a slide hammer. The 36mm nut was also a headache for me, ended up alternating between impact wrench and breaker bar. The breaker bar with a long pipe finally did the trick along with lots of wd-40. Good luck with you repair and thanks again for the assist!
 

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Thanks so much for IDing that!

separating the CV from the intermediate shaft is what’s currently giving me the run around. Being on jack stands I don’t have a good angle to get my crowbar in to pop the CV out. I’m probably going to have to borrow a slide hammer from autozone. The other idea I saw on here was to wrap one end of some chain around the CV and the other around your sledgehammer to approximate a slide hammer. The 36mm nut was also a headache for me, ended up alternating between impact wrench and breaker bar. The breaker bar with a long pipe finally did the trick along with lots of wd-40. Good luck with you repair and thanks again for the assist!
Thanks for the feedback.

I bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar and 8-piece 3/4" drive metric socket set (which includes the 36mm) from Harbor Freight around a year ago for this very reason. Around seven years ago I had a hard time removing the spindle nut on my '98 CRV. It was so bad in fact that I broke my Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar at the pivot point...snapped that sucker right off. The spindle nuts on the Pilot are torqued much higher(than the CRV's) at the factory so I didn't want to go into this job with another 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Before I tackle this job on my '05 Pilot I'll be doing the exact same thing on my CRV in a couple days...the only difference being the intermediate shaft bearing assembly is on the driver's side. I've heard some first-gen CRV owners have had a devil of a time getting it separated not to mention you have to be careful not to damage the bearing support as well...not looking forward to it.

Keep us updated on your progress...and Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ended up buying the part off of Ebay for $15. Napa want's $80+

Slide hammer, borrowed from autozone, worked great for getting the axle out. Only took 5 or 6 hits to pop it past the retaining ring, so much easier than fussing with bars and levers under a car on jacks.
 

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Ended up buying the part off of Ebay for $15. Napa want's $80+

Slide hammer, borrowed from autozone, worked great for getting the axle out. Only took 5 or 6 hits to pop it past the retaining ring, so much easier than fussing with bars and levers under a car on jacks.
Thanks for the follow-up.

I got everything disconnected from the steering knuckles on my '98 CRV today and I discovered that one of the bushings on the right upper control arm was worn and the inner tie rod end on the left side has significant play. I hit a curb several years ago pretty hard(blew out the tire, in fact) and I'm quite sure that's where the play came from. I replaced both inners around six years ago and the one on the right side is perfectly fine...dumb mistake on my part.

I hammered out the old lower ball joints and I'm heading to Harbor Freight tomorrow to pick up their Maddox Ball Joint Press to install the new Proforged ball joints. I had to order new upper arms today from RockAuto...it never ends.

The only thing I didn't accomplish today was remove the left CV shaft from the intermediate shaft.

The 3/4" drive breaker bar worked like a champ on the spindle nuts...no problem whatsoever removing those often troublesome nuts.
 

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I had no trouble separating the CV shaft from intermediate shaft bearing assembly on my '98 CRV yesterday. I guess I should clarify that statement as I had no problem after I looked around my garage and came up with a better game plan.

I ended using the removable center post from one of my spare ratcheting 3-ton jack stands. I simply placed the Y-shaped end(the end which gets positioned under the jacking points) against the CV shaft's centerline point (instead of hitting it somewhat off towards the side and at an angle) so all of the hammering force from my 4lb mini sledgehammer wasn't wasted as it was pretty much getting separated in a straight line. It was separated on the second good whack...easy peasy. What a relief.

Unfortunately, due to the access/clearance on my '05 Pilot for the same job I don't see how the same process will work on it. Either I do the slide hammer method like you did or come up with another way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good work, headknocker. I'm sure you'll find a way on the pilot, don't forget the chain as a backup plan ;)

My replacement pressure switch arrived yesterday so I should be back on the road today. Thanks again for the assist, xGS!
 

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Good work, headknocker. I'm sure you'll find a way on the pilot, don't forget the chain as a backup plan ;)

My replacement pressure switch arrived yesterday so I should be back on the road today. Thanks again for the assist, xGS!
I'm wondering if I wrapped a chain(is there enough clearance for a chain or would I need to use a metal cord?) around the back of the inner joint and then secure the other end of the chain(or metal cord) to the brake rotor which will be removed anyway. Brake rotors have some weight to them and I'm curious if it would be able to create enough force to dislodge the inner joint with a hard tug? It's the same basic principle as a slide hammer but it's free :p.

BTW, I had transmission electrical issues on my '05 over a year ago. I was getting the dreaded "Flashing D" and the trouble codes P0974 & P0980...and occasionally also P0970 to go along with it. I knew those codes meant to look at shift solenoids A & C and also the AT Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C. The A & C shift solenoids are under the starter and the last item is located on the bottom front section of the trans. Shift solenoid B is on the top of the transmission and although it's part of the same circuit it never triggered a trouble code. I had replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches when I bought the vehicle in '13 with 99K miles under her belt. They weren't old but they weren't new either so I swapped them out with a pair of the SINS brand from Amazon hoping that would solve the problem. It DID work initially but three days later the Flashing D returned along with the trouble codes 0974 & 0980. Then I bought SINS shift solenoids after checking for continuity in the wiring,etc. Didn't solve the problem and the vehicle was out of commission for around a month before I figured it out. It ended being corrosion on the wiring on the trans grounding point which is located on the side of trans facing the driver's side tire. It turned out there was continuity in the wiring but there was just enough resistance to trigger the trouble codes. Shift solenoid B is located closer to the grounding point so that's why it didn't trigger any codes. I bought a new wiring harness from ebay (part#28960-RGR-000) and everything has worked fine ever since.

Why am I telling you this? I've had no problems whatsoever with any of the SINS parts...the AT pressure switches or the solenoids. They're MUCH cheaper than OEM and they just work. The one thing I've learned about their pressure switches is the connector isn't crimped-on like OEM (they're just pressure-fitted) so it's not hard for them to come apart if you need to disconnect them for some reason(ask me how I know). I just make sure to apply a little dialectric grease around the outside of the connector and apply an adhesive( I used GOOP) to firmly hold the connector to the body of the switch. If I hadn't needed to go back in and remove the connector I wouldn't have known about that manufacturing flaw. Otherwise they're a great inexpensive option to OEM.
 

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I'm still working on my CRV but I'm gonna try this method to remove the right axle on my '05 Pilot next week. It sure looks like an inexpensive but effective method.

 

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Kewl. Once again, Vice-Grips FTW. :)
 

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Yup, good ole Vise-Grips....a staple in every mechanic's (shade tree or professional) tool box...right up there with a rotary tool,duct tape and WD40 .

I just checked this morning and the threaded rod in my inventory will work...three ft long with the proper size and thread pitch...sweet! Instead of using an axe head I'm thinking about simply clamping another pair of large Vise-Grips along the rod on the other end and whacking the hell out of it with my 4lb mini-sledgehammer....if that doesn't work I'll leave the Vise-Grips in place and use the brake rotor (which will be removed at that point anyway) as a slide-hammer.
 

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I'm wondering if I wrapped a chain(is there enough clearance for a chain or would I need to use a metal cord?) around the back of the inner joint and then secure the other end of the chain(or metal cord) to the brake rotor which will be removed anyway. Brake rotors have some weight to them and I'm curious if it would be able to create enough force to dislodge the inner joint with a hard tug? It's the same basic principle as a slide hammer but it's free :p.

BTW, I had transmission electrical issues on my '05 over a year ago. I was getting the dreaded "Flashing D" and the trouble codes P0974 & P0980...and occasionally also P0970 to go along with it. I knew those codes meant to look at shift solenoids A & C and also the AT Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C. The A & C shift solenoids are under the starter and the last item is located on the bottom front section of the trans. Shift solenoid B is on the top of the transmission and although it's part of the same circuit it never triggered a trouble code. I had replaced the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches when I bought the vehicle in '13 with 99K miles under her belt. They weren't old but they weren't new either so I swapped them out with a pair of the SINS brand from Amazon hoping that would solve the problem. It DID work initially but three days later the Flashing D returned along with the trouble codes 0974 & 0980. Then I bought SINS shift solenoids after checking for continuity in the wiring,etc. Didn't solve the problem and the vehicle was out of commission for around a month before I figured it out. It ended being corrosion on the wiring on the trans grounding point which is located on the side of trans facing the driver's side tire. It turned out there was continuity in the wiring but there was just enough resistance to trigger the trouble codes. Shift solenoid B is located closer to the grounding point so that's why it didn't trigger any codes. I bought a new wiring harness from ebay (part#28960-RGR-000) and everything has worked fine ever since.

Why am I telling you this? I've had no problems whatsoever with any of the SINS parts...the AT pressure switches or the solenoids. They're MUCH cheaper than OEM and they just work. The one thing I've learned about their pressure switches is the connector isn't crimped-on like OEM (they're just pressure-fitted) so it's not hard for them to come apart if you need to disconnect them for some reason(ask me how I know). I just make sure to apply a little dialectric grease around the outside of the connector and apply an adhesive( I used GOOP) to firmly hold the connector to the body of the switch. If I hadn't needed to go back in and remove the connector I wouldn't have known about that manufacturing flaw. Otherwise they're a great inexpensive option to OEM.
Hi,

Is the SINS part still perform well?
Is below part is the one you think the culprit for Transmission flashing D (Part for Pilot 2003 which not same number as 2005)?

144471
144472
 

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Not saying the part your seeking isn't a problem. Do you have a Check Engine Light too?
Any of those rusted conections I'd buff clean. Is the grounding strap between the transmission and frame intact? Clean contact points or replace if needed. Wal-Mart sells a strap that works well for cheap.
144475
 

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Not saying the part your seeking isn't a problem. Do you have a Check Engine Light too?
Any of those rusted conections I'd buff clean. Is the grounding strap between the transmission and frame intact? Clean contact points or replace if needed. Wal-Mart sells a strap that works well for cheap.
View attachment 144475
Hi,

Yes the one I did replaced about 6 months ago which cause problem starting the car and the funny thing we did replace battery first then alternator and finally I knew the problem is in the ground connecter between chassis in front close to hood latched to engine in bottom. Now my car had 270000 miles and start give me blinking D light and unable to shift above 2nd gear and first time it give me P0730,p0740,p0780. Then sometime give me code 04-01 (speed). I replaced Shift solenoid A and C, TCC A&B, 3rd pressure switch and problem still not resolved. I did replace transmission fluid with Honda DF1 then 2nd time maybe 50 miles after that I replace with 24 Ounces Lucas Transmission Fix plus Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I saw post by Headknocker about corroded ground wire which I saw mine had gone really bad after 270k miles. So this the one I had to fix first before try again. I ordered 4th pressure switch and will come in few days from Amazon
 

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Hi,

Yes the one I did replaced about 6 months ago which cause problem starting the car and the funny thing we did replace battery first then alternator and finally I knew the problem is in the ground connecter between chassis in front close to hood latched to engine in bottom. Now my car had 270000 miles and start give me blinking D light and unable to shift above 2nd gear and first time it give me P0730,p0740,p0780. Then sometime give me code 04-01 (speed). I replaced Shift solenoid A and C, TCC A&B, 3rd pressure switch and problem still not resolved. I did replace transmission fluid with Honda DF1 then 2nd time maybe 50 miles after that I replace with 24 Ounces Lucas Transmission Fix plus Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I saw post by Headknocker about corroded ground wire which I saw mine had gone really bad after 270k miles. So this the one I had to fix first before try again. I ordered 4th pressure switch and will come in few days from Amazon
I'd make sure all those wires are protected from grounding. Clean connections with CRC Electronic Cleaner. Any ground wires I'd clean contact points free from rust.
You may know this, but a single drain and fill of the ATF only cleans 30% of the fluid. I'd do at least one more drain and fill with MaxLife.
With your parts ordered, hopefully your on the right track.
 
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Hi,

Yes the one I did replaced about 6 months ago which cause problem starting the car and the funny thing we did replace battery first then alternator and finally I knew the problem is in the ground connecter between chassis in front close to hood latched to engine in bottom. Now my car had 270000 miles and start give me blinking D light and unable to shift above 2nd gear and first time it give me P0730,p0740,p0780. Then sometime give me code 04-01 (speed). I replaced Shift solenoid A and C, TCC A&B, 3rd pressure switch and problem still not resolved. I did replace transmission fluid with Honda DF1 then 2nd time maybe 50 miles after that I replace with 24 Ounces Lucas Transmission Fix plus Valvoline MaxLife ATF. I saw post by Headknocker about corroded ground wire which I saw mine had gone really bad after 270k miles. So this the one I had to fix first before try again. I ordered 4th pressure switch and will come in few days from Amazon
Walmart has the finest selection of 4 or 6 gauge wires at the best price ready to fix any bad ground wire. Bad ground wires are easily dismissed or neglected but can sometimes be the root cause of some mystery problems that crop up with age and mileage.
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