The PCV valve is just one of those things I don’t wait to replace. If it gets stuck closed, crankcase pressure will build forcing oil out places it shouldn’t go.
Broken PCV Valve Stuck in Engine FIX
Decided to change the PCV valve on my '05 Pilot. Loosened the one bolt holding it in and it would not come out. I tried to wiggle it and turn to get it out with no luck. I slipped a small flat screwdriver blade behind the housing and the end cracked off leaving the rest inside the engine.
After some messing with it, I found that a 7/16-14 (not even sure why I had this size) tap fit perfectly into the exposed hole. I was able to thread the tap into the plastic housing and then use a pair of pliers to pry against the engine to pull it out. Crisis solved.
A 7/16 bolt would fit in there as well but wouldn't thread in as easy as a tap does.
I just wanted to post this in case this happens to anyone else.
After some messing with it, I found that a 7/16-14 (not even sure why I had this size) tap fit perfectly into the exposed hole. I was able to thread the tap into the plastic housing and then use a pair of pliers to pry against the engine to pull it out. Crisis solved.
A 7/16 bolt would fit in there as well but wouldn't thread in as easy as a tap does.
I just wanted to post this in case this happens to anyone else.
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I must have had the mojo today. I was all ready with PB blaster, the 7/16-4 tap and patience. As soon as I loosened the bolt on the cold engine the Valve moved and I just pulled it straight out!
Vehicle has 220K miles. ZERO rattle. New one rattles and fit perfectly. HONDA 17130-RCA-A02 Total time was about 10 minutes as I also cleaned up the gunk in the area!
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Vehicle has 220K miles. ZERO rattle. New one rattles and fit perfectly. HONDA 17130-RCA-A02 Total time was about 10 minutes as I also cleaned up the gunk in the area!
2011 with 162k.
Im the original owner and don’t have a record that my PCV valve had been changed. I bought a oem replacement which iirc was approx $30. Pretty expensive compared to aftermarket ones but that’s how I rolled on this.
Getting to it and it’s position is not the most accessible but I was able to loosen the bolt easy enough. The engine was warm. The unit would not pull out at first. After about 5 to 10 mins of positioning my fingers on it, I was able to rotate the valve clockwise and counterclockwise ever so slightly but it did not seem to want to back out. More of slight rotations. It backed out slightly but would not slide out. With very slight gap, I was able to work a screw driver in behind the shaft side not the bolt collar side. I pried gently, stopped rotated the shaft, pried again, rotated. If finally backed out with more gentle prying at the shaft. Below is a pic, where you can see the pry marks. Surprising the old valve rattled, but not like the new replacement. Worth the piece of mind IMO.
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Im the original owner and don’t have a record that my PCV valve had been changed. I bought a oem replacement which iirc was approx $30. Pretty expensive compared to aftermarket ones but that’s how I rolled on this.
Getting to it and it’s position is not the most accessible but I was able to loosen the bolt easy enough. The engine was warm. The unit would not pull out at first. After about 5 to 10 mins of positioning my fingers on it, I was able to rotate the valve clockwise and counterclockwise ever so slightly but it did not seem to want to back out. More of slight rotations. It backed out slightly but would not slide out. With very slight gap, I was able to work a screw driver in behind the shaft side not the bolt collar side. I pried gently, stopped rotated the shaft, pried again, rotated. If finally backed out with more gentle prying at the shaft. Below is a pic, where you can see the pry marks. Surprising the old valve rattled, but not like the new replacement. Worth the piece of mind IMO.
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The bulletproof bulb or the Achilles' heel tail?
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Yeah. I didn’t ever think of it as a cause for oil leaks, but now wonder how many seals I’ve blown on my pilot. I ordered an OEM on Amazon that should arrive today for $28. But last night I was investigating the job before reading this thread, and I snapped the PCV valve and think my valve cover gasket was leaking anyway (due to PCV clog probably)
I tried a too-small lag bolt and couldn’t get any grab, but pulled out a second small plastic piece. I think the lag bolt/tap method only works if your PCV breaks the right way.
It’s not that hard to pull the valve cover though. Mine was stuck in place, but carefully prying on the top corner got the initial movement needed. Of course I did not score the head surface, rather used the corner of the head as the fulcrum.
So I just pulled the valve cover to get the broken valve out. It fell right out when tapping the filthy valve cover on a piece of wood. Fortunately a local Advance Auto had both the PCV and valve ($38) cover gasket (Fel-pro $52 or whatever brand that’s on Amazon for $28). She gave me a discount and I walked out paying about $75 total, I guess an extra $25 because I was doing this emergency style.
The next hang up for me was replacing the coil pack gaskets. Some special tool (or maybe even a torch?) should be used to remove them.
I’m going to wait for the Amazon PCV valve to arrive today and then replace the PCV on my similarly aged ridgeline. I’ve got the second half of the gasket set already, but need to figure out what tool is required for the spark plug tube gaskets.
Replace PCV before:
A) it gets too brittle to replace
B) it clogs and start causing more expensive deals to blow out. (I’m worried my oil pan gasket may also be leaking in addition to my valve cover gasket that I just replaced.)
With the valve cover gasket replacement I assume you’re also replacing the spark plug tube seals and bolt grommets?
I did the spark plug tubes, but didn’t have time for the bolt seal nonsense. I don’t have to remove the valve cover to do the bolt seals if it turns out that’s a requirement.
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