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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 Pilot. A new noise this morning. The brake pedal or something on it was clicking or rattling when it was pressed or depressed. It seemed to go away after I drove for several minutes and the engine and car were warmed up. The brakes work fine otherwise.
 

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I have the same thing to my new to me pilot as the weather got colder up here in VT. We always get car creeks and groans come December to Feb in al my cars.
 

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2012 Pilot. A new noise this morning. The brake pedal or something on it was clicking or rattling when it was pressed or depressed. It seemed to go away after I drove for several minutes and the engine and car were warmed up. The brakes work fine otherwise.
Could be the pedal position switch or any one of several relays affected by the brake pedal such as the brake shift lockout relay or the cruise control defeat switch if you have one. For starters, depress the brake pedal all the way and push the switch in and see if it's the culprit. Do you get the same noise with the ignition off? If so it's probably the switch. If not it's probably a relay. You might want to have the dealer check it out and fix it since guessing at DIY fixes involving brakes is sometimes not a money saver. Are the brake lights working?

[EDIT] I'm assuming this noise is coming from the brake pedal literally or near it. Is the sound coming from somewhere else, like one of the wheels, but just when you depress the pedal?
 

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Written about here.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could be the pedal position switch or any one of several relays affected by the brake pedal such as the brake shift lockout relay or the cruise control defeat switch if you have one. For starters,

[EDIT] I'm assuming this noise is coming from the brake pedal literally or near it. Is the sound coming from somewhere else, like one of the wheels, but just when you depress the pedal?
Written about here.

it is coming from the pedal or somewhere near it. It is not coming from the pads. Sorry for not being more specific in the original post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Correction, it is coming from behind the radio. Definitely in the dashboard
 

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My Pilot makes a clicking/crunching noise from the brake pedal when it's really cold out. Does it for the first few pedal presses then goes away. Been like this since new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
More info, it is coming from behind the shift lever and only when it is in park. If I’m holding the shift i can feel it vibrate a little. If the car is in drive or reverse or does not do this. Brake lights work and brakes work. So it's related to the shift lock.
 

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It's likely the release for the gear lever. It prevents you from moving the lever from park position without the pedal depressed.

The system is related to the brake pedal position switch, which activates the shift lock solenoid when the pedal is depressed. The signal from the brake pedal position switch routes through the transmission range switch too, so the solenoid is only engaged when the transmission is in the park position. The Most Likely Cause of your symptom is that transmission range switch, located inconveniently on the front driver's side of the gearbox case where the cable from the gear lever connects to the gearbox.

The whole range switch slides over the shaft from the cable into the gearbox, and requires careful disassembly of that whole lever arm and cable, then unbolt the switch from the gearbox, slide old one off... assembly is reverse of disassembly. The workshop manual includes a diagnostic from the electrical connector with a truth table, but by the time you gain access for the electrical test with a meter you are well on your way to replacement. Access from the top after removing the battery and the aux electrical fuse/relay box. There may be a way to get there through the LF wheelhouse with wheel/tire removed at least for testing.

Before committing to all that work, try cycling the gear lever through its full range a few times immediately after a cold start. In and out of Park position a few times may free up the switch.

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Has the care ever been swimming in water up close to door sill level? Water in the switch housing make be causing the 'park' position contact to be sticking when water captive inside freezes. As the gearbox and switch warms up, the contact is freed to open with the gear lever out of park position. Diagnose with a hair dryer/heat gun on the transmission range switch, thawing it prior to cold start.
 

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Re-reading the OP's last post, I missed the "only in park position" part of the symptom. Consideraing that, the clicking can be caused by the brake pedal position switch, the tranmssion gera selctor switch, or the gear lever release solenoid. These are test-light and meter diagnostics for those components and the connecting wiring. I'd start at the pedal position switch, since it's the easiest component to test and has wiring running both ways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry I missed the replies. This is definitely coming from the gear shift lever, so I think the problem is there. I'm pretty sure it is the gear lock solenoid. I've talked to a few people who say their car has always made this noise. My issue is this just started in this car a few days ago. I have 3 other Hondas that don't do this, and I've had several non-Hondas that didn't. In any case I have my mechanic looking at it. One possible explanation is a soft bump stop or something similar has gotten compressed or fallen out and is no longer dampening the noise.
 

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The symptom is there at the solenoid. The problem may be there, but takes more diagnosis. The covers come off pretty easily for testing at the solenoid. Or start at the pedal position switch with a volt meter to see if the current flow there is continuous with transmission in Park and brake pedal depressed. If the voltage varies when measured there, look upstream at the transmission switch if voltage is varying on the switch input. Look at the pedal switch if continuous on input but varying on output. Look at the solenoid if continuous on both pedal position switch terminals.

It takes longer to describe the diagnostic testing than it does to describe it here. I'm sure your mechanic will figure it out.
 
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