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Any recommendations Pads and Rotors 2012 Pilot ? Raybestos ok ? or stick with OEM?

Thanks

Raybestos 980566R R-Line Brake Rotor

Raybestos EHT1280H Brake Pad Set
 

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I haven't used Raybestos in years but I remember them being garbage. If you want good pads you can go with EBC or I have used Akebono and they weren't too bad. Maybe Raybestos is better, but it's been years since I've used them in anything.
 

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I got grooves worn in my rotors after about 3 years of driving, causing brakes to pulsate. Dealer tried to convince me I needed rotor resurfacing (at like $200 per wheel)

I replaced with 'Centric' 120 series (ones in Daily driver section on Rockauto) at like $55 each (fronts) and $38/each (rear), and I am quite happy.
Pads, I like Akebono Ceramic ACT1280/1281. Haven't let me down so far.
 

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I used Centric pads and rotors and have been happy... I wish I had bought the E-coated ones to get a little bit more time before they start looking rusty but their performance has been great, 2 years and 30k miles on them so far.
 

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I got grooves worn in my rotors after about 3 years of driving, causing brakes to pulsate. Dealer tried to convince me I needed rotor resurfacing (at like $200 per wheel)

I replaced with 'Centric' 120 series (ones in Daily driver section on Rockauto) at like $55 each (fronts) and $38/each (rear), and I am quite happy.
Pads, I like Akebono Ceramic ACT1280/1281. Haven't let me down so far.
wow, $200 resurfacing/wheel. That dealer is trying to rip you off.
Resurfacing is suppose to be the cheap way instead of new rotors.
 

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I too switched to the cheapest coated Centric rotors from Rock Auto and been happy ever since. They do not have that much of a tendency to warp versus the OEM.
For the pads I am pretty happy with OEM but my last pad change was to Akebono which I also used previously with success. The only downside to Akebono that I noticed was a slight fluttering kind of noise, barely audible, which was not there with OEM.
Disclosure: I am a slow driver, slow to accelerate, driving speed limit, and feathering both pedals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
  • No problems with OEM Brake Pads with aftermarket Rotors ?
  • Stay Centric / Centric?
  • Impact screwdriver required?
 

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+1 for a good Centric kit from Rockauto. My Pilot finally has the decent brakes it should have had all along.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
 

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Note: make sure you got an impact screwdriver before starting the rotor change process!
YES, one of the least used but most useful tools when I need it. Hyundai uses the same setup so I have used it on a lot of my in-law's vehicles.

  • No problems with OEM Brake Pads with aftermarket Rotors ?
  • Stay Centric / Centric?
  • Impact screwdriver required?
I got the Centric kit, I figured I'd go with parts that have been tested together over mix and matching parts and hoping they work together. Probably not a big deal to mix and match pads and rotors but just my preference.
 

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You remove that pesky screw once by whatever means and forget about bothering with it forever. Its only purpose is to simplify the factory assembly on the line.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
If you're going to buy impact bits, go ahead and get JIS bits (Japanese Industrial Standard), or just buy a set of new rotor screws for $7.
 

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I too switched to the cheapest coated Centric rotors from Rock Auto and been happy ever since. They do not have that much of a tendency to warp versus the OEM.
For the pads I am pretty happy with OEM but my last pad change was to Akebono which I also used previously with success. The only downside to Akebono that I noticed was a slight fluttering kind of noise, barely audible, which was not there with OEM.
Disclosure: I am a slow driver, slow to accelerate, driving speed limit, and feathering both pedals.
Sounds like good advice to me. I'm running a 205 Pilot with 216,000+ miles and an 1995 Acura Legend LS Coupe with 124,000+ miles. The worst trait is the period development of pulsing due to warped discs. Switch them out.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
Best advice ever

2019 Touring AWD MSM
 

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Replaced the OEM pads with EBC suv pads and upgraded to better brake fluid. Much better initial bite and the stopping power is much stronger than OEM.
 

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Any recommendations Pads and Rotors 2012 Pilot ? Raybestos ok ? or stick with OEM?

Thanks

Raybestos 980566R R-Line Brake Rotor

Raybestos EHT1280H Brake Pad Set
I installed those exact rotors years ago, with OEM pads, and they have been flawless.
 

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Replaced the OEM pads with EBC suv pads and upgraded to better brake fluid. Much better initial bite and the stopping power is much stronger than OEM.
Any DOT3 brake fluid will perform exactly the same. Modern synthetic DOT3 is cheap (prestone) and as good as anything on the market for a passenger vehicle that is rated for DOT3.
 

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Any DOT3 brake fluid will perform exactly the same. Modern synthetic DOT3 is cheap (prestone) and as good as anything on the market for a passenger vehicle that is rated for DOT3.
Yeah, I had been wondering the same when I got the Centric set from Rockauto and changed the brake fluid and bled the system (remember, driver's corner first then clockwise, as per the service manual). Would DOT3 or DOT4, Honda or non-Honda brake fluid make a difference? Then when the pads and rotors were being installed, I had forgotten all about it and used what I could get my hands on quickly. New and unopened, of course, since brake fluid is hygroscopic. Since when I did that last spring, I've been very happy with the brakes that my Pilot should have had all along.

So, a good Centric set from Rockauto, proper bleeding and any fresh DOT3 was the winning recipe.
 
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