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Discussion Starter #1
Any recommendations Pads and Rotors 2012 Pilot ? Raybestos ok ? or stick with OEM?

Thanks

Raybestos 980566R R-Line Brake Rotor

Raybestos EHT1280H Brake Pad Set
 

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I haven't used Raybestos in years but I remember them being garbage. If you want good pads you can go with EBC or I have used Akebono and they weren't too bad. Maybe Raybestos is better, but it's been years since I've used them in anything.
 

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I got grooves worn in my rotors after about 3 years of driving, causing brakes to pulsate. Dealer tried to convince me I needed rotor resurfacing (at like $200 per wheel)

I replaced with 'Centric' 120 series (ones in Daily driver section on Rockauto) at like $55 each (fronts) and $38/each (rear), and I am quite happy.
Pads, I like Akebono Ceramic ACT1280/1281. Haven't let me down so far.
 

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I used Centric pads and rotors and have been happy... I wish I had bought the E-coated ones to get a little bit more time before they start looking rusty but their performance has been great, 2 years and 30k miles on them so far.
 

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I got grooves worn in my rotors after about 3 years of driving, causing brakes to pulsate. Dealer tried to convince me I needed rotor resurfacing (at like $200 per wheel)

I replaced with 'Centric' 120 series (ones in Daily driver section on Rockauto) at like $55 each (fronts) and $38/each (rear), and I am quite happy.
Pads, I like Akebono Ceramic ACT1280/1281. Haven't let me down so far.
wow, $200 resurfacing/wheel. That dealer is trying to rip you off.
Resurfacing is suppose to be the cheap way instead of new rotors.
 

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I too switched to the cheapest coated Centric rotors from Rock Auto and been happy ever since. They do not have that much of a tendency to warp versus the OEM.
For the pads I am pretty happy with OEM but my last pad change was to Akebono which I also used previously with success. The only downside to Akebono that I noticed was a slight fluttering kind of noise, barely audible, which was not there with OEM.
Disclosure: I am a slow driver, slow to accelerate, driving speed limit, and feathering both pedals.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
  • No problems with OEM Brake Pads with aftermarket Rotors ?
  • Stay Centric / Centric?
  • Impact screwdriver required?
 

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+1 for a good Centric kit from Rockauto. My Pilot finally has the decent brakes it should have had all along.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
 

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Note: make sure you got an impact screwdriver before starting the rotor change process!
YES, one of the least used but most useful tools when I need it. Hyundai uses the same setup so I have used it on a lot of my in-law's vehicles.

  • No problems with OEM Brake Pads with aftermarket Rotors ?
  • Stay Centric / Centric?
  • Impact screwdriver required?
I got the Centric kit, I figured I'd go with parts that have been tested together over mix and matching parts and hoping they work together. Probably not a big deal to mix and match pads and rotors but just my preference.
 

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You remove that pesky screw once by whatever means and forget about bothering with it forever. Its only purpose is to simplify the factory assembly on the line.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
If you're going to buy impact bits, go ahead and get JIS bits (Japanese Industrial Standard), or just buy a set of new rotor screws for $7.
 

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I too switched to the cheapest coated Centric rotors from Rock Auto and been happy ever since. They do not have that much of a tendency to warp versus the OEM.
For the pads I am pretty happy with OEM but my last pad change was to Akebono which I also used previously with success. The only downside to Akebono that I noticed was a slight fluttering kind of noise, barely audible, which was not there with OEM.
Disclosure: I am a slow driver, slow to accelerate, driving speed limit, and feathering both pedals.
Sounds like good advice to me. I'm running a 205 Pilot with 216,000+ miles and an 1995 Acura Legend LS Coupe with 124,000+ miles. The worst trait is the period development of pulsing due to warped discs. Switch them out.
 

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The phillips screws holding rotors to the hubs are almost impossible to remove with a regular screwdriver. Lots of people end up stripping the head and then have to drill them out.

But impact screwdriver makes it a breeze.
ARES 70606-1/2-Inch Manual Reversible Impact Driver - Flathead 5/16 & 3/8 and Phillips #2 & #3 Bits for Most Common Applications - Disengage Brake Caliper Screws, Rusted Fasteners or Frozen Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077D298R7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKoZDbQZPV5J1
Best advice ever

2019 Touring AWD MSM
 

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Replaced the OEM pads with EBC suv pads and upgraded to better brake fluid. Much better initial bite and the stopping power is much stronger than OEM.
 
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