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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Know this has been discussed before but posts I'm finding are pretty old. Infrequently getting some really horrible noises coming from my front brakes. Sounds so bad I truly expect to see brake parts littering the road behind me! Started after I replaced the pads and turned the rotors about 6 months ago. Infrequently it will happen on level ground but there's a steep downhill grade I occasionally use and it does it almost every time when I start braking hard enough in order to make a left turn near the bottom of the hill. I've taken them back off twice now and reinspected them but I really don't see anything wrong with them or the installation. Suggestions appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nope. For as many brake jobs as I've done on my vehicles and some others, never have messed with pulling them out, and it's never been a problem. However, that does look like something that can be quickly remedied as a possible fix. Do I specifically need to pick up a tube of brake lubricant or will high temp, or white lithium grease work as well? Those I have on hand. Nice thing is that I can test it out quickly by going down that hill that always causes it to act up.
 

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It's recommended to use silicone grease because other petroleum based greese can swell the rubber boots.
 

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Nope. For as many brake jobs as I've done on my vehicles and some others, never have messed with pulling them out, and it's never been a problem. However, that does look like something that can be quickly remedied as a possible fix. Do I specifically need to pick up a tube of brake lubricant or will high temp, or white lithium grease work as well? Those I have on hand. Nice thing is that I can test it out quickly by going down that hill that always causes it to act up.
Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant

Also. when you replace the brake pads, are you using the new metal shims that (should) come with them?
Assuming you are, do you also clean (as in file or wire brush) any corrosion from the caliper surfaces that the shims contact and then lubricating those surfaces before you install the new shims?
 

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For as many brake jobs as I've done on my vehicles and some others, never have messed with pulling them out, and it's never been a problem. .
For best results during brake service those slide pins should be inspected for corrosion, damage and proper lubrication in order to slide as designed. I’d say you’ve been fortunate. As mentioned Hondas need the right type of lube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Permatex® Ceramic Extreme Bra
For best results during brake service those slide pins should be inspected for corrosion, damage and proper lubrication in order to slide as designed. I’d say you’ve been fortunate. As mentioned Hondas need the right type of lube.
For best results during brake service those slide pins should be inspected for corrosion, damage and proper lubrication in order to slide as designed. I’d say you’ve been fortunate. As mentioned Hondas need the right type of lube.
Brake Parts Lubricant

Also. when you replace the brake pads, are you using the new metal shims that (should) come with them?
Assuming you are, do you also clean (as in file or wire brush) any corrosion from the caliper surfaces that the shims contact and then lubricating those surfaces before you install the new shims?
 

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I've come across a dry dirty slide pin a time or two. I'm not one to insight fear on the subject. If you have a couple of things you can handle this without necessarily replacing the whole caliper. But yes, it is a judgment call. These things dont last forever and the rubber boot needs to be in good shape or replace. But if I find a dry pin, I remove it and buff it clean with a light bristle buffing wheel. The bore in the caliper can be cleaned with brake clean or degreaser. Then use a bore brush like these....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQWGFS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_PRZEJ05ECDCZY18G7DRS
After brushing, I like to use CRC Electronic Cleaner because it removes oily debris. Let dry thoroughly. Then put it back together using a generous amount of silicone lube from a tube (not spray).
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Been using the small packets that come with the pads for that after I've cleaned off the caliper surfaces. Weathers supposed to improve after lunch today so will probably pick up some of the brake lube and tear into them again. Need to look for a slow leak in one of the tires while I'm at it. Probably something I picked up at the ball field but it's not an obvious puncture.
 

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I've come across a dry dirty slide pin a time or two. I'm not one to insight fear on the subject. If you have a couple of things you can handle this without necessarily replacing the whole caliper. But yes, it is a judgment call. These things dont last forever and the rubber boot needs to be in good shape or replace. But if I find a dry pin, I remove it and buff it clean with a light bristle buffing wheel. The bore in the caliper can be cleaned with brake clean or degreaser. Then use a bore brush like these....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KQWGFS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_PRZEJ05ECDCZY18G7DRS
After brushing, I like to use CRC Electronic Cleaner because it removes oily debris. Let dry thoroughly. Then put it back together using a generous amount of silicone lube from a tube (not spray).
Alternatively, I not as complete as NG. If a slide pin is sticking at all by hand, I wipe it clean and grease the beejesus out of it and put it back together- it works too.

We're not sure what IS exactly causing this noise though.
Sure the noise is coming from the fronts? Did it happen before your brake job? And, you had the rotors 'turned'? I wasn't sure anyone was doing that any more.
IMHO- unless the rotors where badly scoured or grooved badly- I personally don't mess with them. It's not a Coronary artery. It'll still stop, and stop well.
 
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Did it happen before your brake job? And, you had the rotors 'turned'? I wasn't sure anyone was doing that any more.
IMHO- unless the rotors where badly scoured or grooved badly- I personally don't mess with them. It's not a Coronary artery. It'll still stop, and stop well.
This is what I'd suspect as well, since it's the Occam's Razor in your story. Just get new rotors and be done with it.

On the opposite end of the Occam's Razor scale, the outlier might be wheel bearings. Just a thought if you've exhausted all other above-mentioned possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is what I'd suspect as well, since it's the Occam's Razor in your story. Just get new rotors and be done with it.

On the opposite end of the Occam's Razor scale, the outlier might be wheel bearings. Just a thought if you've exhausted all other above-mentioned possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Noise problem didn't start until a couple months after the brake job, which did include replacing the front rotors this time since one couldn't be turned. Seems like we always developed problems with the brakes on our Hondas after getting cheap brake jobs done at non-Honda service shops (i.e. Midas, PepBoys, etc.). I finally started doing them myself making sure to buy better pads which definitely seemed to resolve the situation for us. Turning rotors each time pretty much became part of the process since that seemed to almost guarantee problems didn't arise. $10/rotor at O'Reilly's wasn't much to pay for peace of mind. Maybe it's time to reconsider that part of the process as it's been decades since a rotor was ever identified as the source of a brake problem? Since the weather is finally improving gonna take them apart today and relube everything with a silicone based brake lube. Running it down that steep hill with the turn near the bottom should give me a quick confirmation if that solved the problem as that route always caused them to sound like they were in self-destruct mode. Might as well flush the brake lines while I'm at it. Keeping my fingers crossed. Curious how many others include turning the rotors as a routine part of their brake jobs?
 

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I had a very similar experience with really bad sounds coming out of the front brakes. Pads had been changed not that long before and looked OK, not worn to the point where there would be any metal on metal. One of the caliper pins was nearly immovable, one on the other side bad, but would still move. Lots of brake cleaner, some buffing and then lube and they've been nice and quiet since then. Seems as though with a stuck/sticky caliper, it will only push one side of the pad in, leaving the other side to vibrate wildly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Finished cleaning and lubing the front brakes and caliper pins with the Sil-Glyde lubricant. Flushed the brake fluid and replaced some worn sway bar linkages while I had the wheels off. Went down the Hill of Squeal on the way to the ballfield last night and was just about to pat myself on the back when right at the last moment before I started my turn, there it was... self-destruct noise still there though it didn't seem quite as bad! While it seems the noise is coming from the front, maybe the rear has something to do with it too? If the weather improves or I can squeeze it into the garage might as well do the back brakes too and try again? On cleaning the caliper pin holes, assuming it's Ok just to flush them out with brake cleaner spray? Wiped out and lubed the front set and everything started sliding very easily after that. Also, the upper and lower pins are different but didn't notice that until I had pulled both sets and then cleaned them off. Advance Auto said to reinstall the pin with the rubber around the tip in the upper caliper hole. If that's incorrect please let me know.
 

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Finished cleaning and lubing the front brakes and caliper pins with the Sil-Glyde lubricant. Flushed the brake fluid and replaced some worn sway bar linkages while I had the wheels off. Went down the Hill of Squeal on the way to the ballfield last night and was just about to pat myself on the back when right at the last moment before I started my turn, there it was... self-destruct noise still there though it didn't seem quite as bad! While it seems the noise is coming from the front, maybe the rear has something to do with it too? If the weather improves or I can squeeze it into the garage might as well do the back brakes too and try again? On cleaning the caliper pin holes, assuming it's Ok just to flush them out with brake cleaner spray? Wiped out and lubed the front set and everything started sliding very easily after that. Also, the upper and lower pins are different but didn't notice that until I had pulled both sets and then cleaned them off. Advance Auto said to reinstall the pin with the rubber around the tip in the upper caliper hole. If that's incorrect please let me know.
If it still makes a noise when you start to turn, have you checked the wheel bearings?
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Pretty steep hill with a truck stop on either side as you get near the bottom. You kinda build up speed on your own as your headed down it. The noise starts when you're braking to slow down to make the turn, not actually in the turn itself. It has occasionally done it on it on a few other inclines but it almost always does it on the steep one I go down to get to the ballfields. Planning on pulling the rear brakes next and cleaning them up to see if that might have something to do with it but it sure sounds like the sounds are coming from the front.
 

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On the opposite end of the Occam's Razor scale, the outlier might be wheel bearings. Just a thought if you've exhausted all other above-mentioned possibilities.
If it still makes a noise when you start to turn, have you checked the wheel bearings?
I approve this message. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Finally managed to get around to pulling the back brakes off and doing a clean/lube job on them and the caliper pins. Took it over to the Hill of Squeal again and as before, as I'm braking a little harder near the bottom of the hill to slow down before the turn, the noise starts up again. Kinda reminds of of scraping your fingernails across the blackboard but a much deeper sound. Beyond frustrating at this point. I've tried braking hard on other inclines (not as steep) and on level roads and almost never manage to get a sound of of the brakes. The few times I have it was nothing like what I get on the steep incline! Don't have anything to indicate it might be a wheel bearing but I guess I need to research that a little more to see if I'm checking for that properly. And for anyone that might be pulling their caliper pins, the pins with the little rubber piece near the end, they go in the top of the caliper on the front, but in the bottom of the caliper on the rear. They were so dirty when I pulled them out the first time didn't even notice the uppers and lowers were different until I cleaned them off. I guess my next test will be to compress the calipers and check them individually as someone slowly presses on the brakes? Though they all seemed to be in the proper position when I pulled them off the rotors? Could it be the pads themselves though they all seemed to be wearing evenly and looked the same front and rear.
 
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