[akulla]

Found that kit on Ebay for $59.99 with free shipping.
Motive sells it for $62.95 + tax and shipping.
If any one wants to get one it's still for sale for another 2 days.

 

[khjr]

mess?

Does anyone know how to keep the fluid from dumping out of the hose all over the engine compartment when disconnecting the adapter? Given that the reservoir is full upon completion, I'm concerned that gravity will quickly pull the unused fluid from the hose when I remove the adapter. Thoughts?

 

[andyschneider]

Thanks for the write-up. I've got a Motive bleeder I bought years ago for a Saab I owned, and it came with the dedicated screw-on adapter for the european-style resivoir on the Saab. I did buy the 1101 adapter but haven't used it yet. Both Pilots were leased, so didn't have either long enough to bleed the fluid. But the Accord is overdue at 54k miles, so will be doing that during the winter tire changover in another month or two.

Having used the motive bleeder on the Saab, you'll never go back after you use it! 15 PSI pressure is all you need. And remember that gravity is your friend with the master cylinder/resevoir. Even though you might have air in the top of the cap section, the air stays at the top of the resevior and the fluid gets sucked from the bottom - so as long as you keep feeding fluid from the bleeder unit to the resevoir, you're all set. And when you do disconnect, it's not as messy in the engine area as you'd think. I kept a shop towel wrapped around the resevoir so that when I took it apart that any brake fluid would get soaked up - but very little did slop out.

andy

 

[speedlever]

Old thread, but pertinent topic. Several years ago I tried the MPB/universal adapter on my Honda Pilot and never could get a good seal. Ended up getting my brake fluid changed but made a huge mess in the process. I sold the Motive Power Bleeder after that crazy day.

Subsequently, I tried various vacuum assisted brake fluid changes (both MityVac and with compressed air/Harbor Freight brake fluid bleeder kit) and while the mess was minimal, I was unhappy with the air bleed at the bleeder screw using the vacuum method. The process was tedious and lengthy and frustrating.

So I'm back to reconsidering the Motive Power Bleeder which, when I first used it was impressed with... other than the sealing issue. So I'm thinking about buying another one and trying it out again. Your post has inspired me to try it again. Am I a glutton for punishment or what?

If I try it out again, I'm considering filling the reservoir only with brake fluid (no fluid in the Motive container) and refilling after each wheel has been bled. Just use pressurized air to move fresh fluid from the BF reservoir through the system. That might keep the mess down, but I recognize I run the risk of running the reservoir dry. I'm comfy that I can manage that risk, as long as I can get a good seal to maintain air pressure.

 

[RimasP]

Simple brake bleed

Just though I would add my 2 cents to this topic. I have been using the following process to change the brake fluid in my vehicles since the 1970's. Years ago, I created a bleed bottle using a mayo jar and some tubing that fit snuggly over the bleeder screws and poked down through the lid to create a standpipe.
More recently the bleed bottles (of a more professional design!) are available for purchase:
• Genesis Cable Bleeder Bottle

Tools/Material:
• Large container of fresh brake fluid
• Box wrench that fits over bleeder screws (~3/8” I believe)
• Bleeder bottle
• Screwdriver to remove protective caps

Process:
• Add fresh brake fluid to bleeder bottle until standpipe is covered by ~ ½ inch (this will help keep air out of the brake system during bleeding)
• Remove master cylinder cap and siphon out around ¾ of the fluid. Replace with fresh fluid (can also flush old fluid through system if desired but it will take longer)
• I usually start at the bleeder closest to the master cylinder (front left)
• Remove the rubber protective cap from bleeder screw
• Place box wrench on screw in a position where it can be loosened
• Hang bottle close to bleeder screw and attach bleed hose as shown in pic
• Crack open bleeder screw ~ 1/8 to 1/4 turn
• Enter vehicle and slowly/ gently push pedal down ~ ½ to ¾ down to the bottom. I usually go slowly and do not allow the pedal to bottom out as it may affect the master cylinder seals.
• Allow pedal to come back up by itself
• Repeat 6 to 8 times
• Check /add fluid level to master cylinder
• I usually repeat this process at each bleeder location 3-4 times (a total of ~ 24 pedal strokes) Fluid is not that expensive so I may overdo it a bit.
• Close bleeder screw, remove tube and install protective cap
• Move to next bleeder (I usual go FL, FR, RL and RR)
• Fill reseviour to the required level and you are done.

Remember to closely monitor fluid in master reservoir so it does not run dry
You can see the old darkened fluid collecting in the bottle.
The bleed bottle may have to be emptied occasionally making sure to leave the end of the stand pipe submerged in fluid. (Tighten bleeder screw before removing)
Frankly if you are flexible enough you can perform the bleeding without removing wheels or raising the vehicle.

Bingo, clean fluid.
Hope this helps!

 

[cintocrunch]

Just though I would add my 2 cents to this topic. I have been using the following process to change the brake fluid in my vehicles since the 1970's. Years ago, I created a bleed bottle using a mayo jar and some tubing that fit snuggly over the bleeder screws and poked down through the lid to create a standpipe.
More recently the bleed bottles (of a more professional design!) are available for purchase:
• Genesis Cable Bleeder Bottle
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7F2GI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools/Material:
• Large container of fresh brake fluid
• Box wrench that fits over bleeder screws (~3/8” I believe)
• Bleeder bottle
• Screwdriver to remove protective caps

Process:
• Add fresh brake fluid to bleeder bottle until standpipe is covered by ~ ½ inch (this will help keep air out of the brake system during bleeding)
• Remove master cylinder cap and siphon out around ¾ of the fluid. Replace with fresh fluid (can also flush old fluid through system if desired but it will take longer)
• I usually start at the bleeder closest to the master cylinder (front left)
• Remove the rubber protective cap from bleeder screw
• Place box wrench on screw in a position where it can be loosened
• Hang bottle close to bleeder screw and attach bleed hose as shown in pic
• Crack open bleeder screw ~ 1/8 to 1/4 turn
• Enter vehicle and slowly/ gently push pedal down ~ ½ to ¾ down to the bottom. I usually go slowly and do not allow the pedal to bottom out as it may affect the master cylinder seals.
• Allow pedal to come back up by itself
• Repeat 6 to 8 times
• Check /add fluid level to master cylinder
• I usually repeat this process at each bleeder location 3-4 times (a total of ~ 24 pedal strokes) Fluid is not that expensive so I may overdo it a bit.
• Close bleeder screw, remove tube and install protective cap
• Move to next bleeder (I usual go FL, FR, RL and RR)
• Fill reseviour to the required level and you are done.

Remember to closely monitor fluid in master reservoir so it does not run dry
You can see the old darkened fluid collecting in the bottle.
The bleed bottle may have to be emptied occasionally making sure to leave the end of the stand pipe submerged in fluid. (Tighten bleeder screw before removing)
Frankly if you are flexible enough you can perform the bleeding without removing wheels or raising the vehicle.

Bingo, clean fluid.
Hope this helps!

+1 for this method, I've done it the cheap way by using an old soda bottle, drilling a hole in the cap and just letting the hose bottom out on it. Doesn't take any longer than a power bleeder IMO and if you get an extra set of hands it's even faster. I like this method because it's foolproof when working alone.

 

[pelletman]

I wasn't able to get the 1101 cap to seal on a 2003 Pilot.

 

[jparedes]

Simple brake bleed

Just though I would add my 2 cents to this topic. I have been using the following process to change the brake fluid in my vehicles since the 1970's. Years ago, I created a bleed bottle using a mayo jar and some tubing that fit snuggly over the bleeder screws and poked down through the lid to create a standpipe.
More recently the bleed bottles (of a more professional design!) are available for purchase:
• Genesis Cable Bleeder Bottle

Tools/Material:
• Large container of fresh brake fluid
• Box wrench that fits over bleeder screws (~3/8” I believe)
• Bleeder bottle
• Screwdriver to remove protective caps

Process:
• Add fresh brake fluid to bleeder bottle until standpipe is covered by ~ ½ inch (this will help keep air out of the brake system during bleeding)
• Remove master cylinder cap and siphon out around ¾ of the fluid. Replace with fresh fluid (can also flush old fluid through system if desired but it will take longer)
• I usually start at the bleeder closest to the master cylinder (front left)
• Remove the rubber protective cap from bleeder screw
• Place box wrench on screw in a position where it can be loosened
• Hang bottle close to bleeder screw and attach bleed hose as shown in pic
• Crack open bleeder screw ~ 1/8 to 1/4 turn
• Enter vehicle and slowly/ gently push pedal down ~ ½ to ¾ down to the bottom. I usually go slowly and do not allow the pedal to bottom out as it may affect the master cylinder seals.
• Allow pedal to come back up by itself
• Repeat 6 to 8 times
• Check /add fluid level to master cylinder
• I usually repeat this process at each bleeder location 3-4 times (a total of ~ 24 pedal strokes) Fluid is not that expensive so I may overdo it a bit.
• Close bleeder screw, remove tube and install protective cap
• Move to next bleeder (I usual go FL, FR, RL and RR)
• Fill reseviour to the required level and you are done.

Remember to closely monitor fluid in master reservoir so it does not run dry
You can see the old darkened fluid collecting in the bottle.
The bleed bottle may have to be emptied occasionally making sure to leave the end of the stand pipe submerged in fluid. (Tighten bleeder screw before removing)
Frankly if you are flexible enough you can perform the bleeding without removing wheels or raising the vehicle.

Bingo, clean fluid.
Hope this helps!

What's to stop the system from sucking in air from the empty tube when you first connect it and crack open the bleeder valve but haven't got another person already pumping the brakes? I don't see how it wouldn't suck in air unless you somehow had the tube pre-filled. Even if the standpipe is covered there's still a good amount of air in front of that before it reaches the point where it's connected to the bleeder valve. Thanks!

 

[mak474]

Bumping this thread. I have a motive power bleeder and use it on our vehicles. Going to be making a cap from a junk yard cap instead of using the clamp method shown. But this method is far superior to bleeding than any bleeding I've done.

 

[speedlever]

Bumping this thread. I have a motive power bleeder and use it on our vehicles. Going to be making a cap from a junk yard cap instead of using the clamp method shown. But this method is far superior to bleeding than any bleeding I've done.

Or, you can get this (rather expensive) adapter from Amazon and fit it to your Motive Power Bleeder. I bought one because I've not had very good luck with the universal adapter.

Amazon.com: CTA Tools 7030 Master Cylinder Adapter 56mm - Compatible with Honda and Acura : Automotive

Buy CTA Tools 7030 Master Cylinder Adapter 56mm - Compatible with Honda and Acura: Master Cylinders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

 

[mak474]

Or, you can get this (rather expensive) adapter from Amazon and fit it to your Motive Power Bleeder. I bought one because I've not had very good luck with the universal adapter.

Amazon.com: CTA Tools 7030 Master Cylinder Adapter 56mm - Compatible with Honda and Acura : Automotive

Buy CTA Tools 7030 Master Cylinder Adapter 56mm - Compatible with Honda and Acura: Master Cylinders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

smile.amazon.com

Haha if this cap fails I'll get one. But I already grabbed one a while back from the junk yard. We moved a few months ago so I just need to find one of my 2 pipe thread taps.