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Hi everyone, needing the brake bleed steps for the 2016 PIlot. The Pilot was MFG'd in May of this year, if you guys have a MFG date of 5/16 or newer and you guys are experiencing braking issue where the pedal travel is further than it should be, please advise. So far after driving a loaner PIlot which had 10K miles and driving mine, I can see that brake pedal travel is much further on mine than the loaner. Which tells me that there is air in the lines and I need to bleed it. I tried twice to address this with the dealer but both times the technician says it works fine and give the vehicle time to break in, I do not believe that really applies to a new vehicle with brand new brakes. Was not going to sit there and argue with the guy. Would have lost my cool and told him he needs to go back school.

In any case, I have decided to tackle this on my own and bleed the brakes to resolve the issue, appreciate your guy's input.
 

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I'm all for DIY but brake bleeding is one thing I gladly have my mechanic do. If you do it wrong, you can actually suck air into the lines, and worse, ABS system. This will leave you with a perpetually mushy pedal that'll require a dealer scan tool to cycle the ABS. If you still want to DIY, make sure to find tubing that fits snugly around the bleeder, and put some grease where the two meet. Pressure bleeding is >>> than pedal bleeding. IIRC, there's a TSB for the 2nd gen Pilot that discourages pedal bleeding since it can damage the master cylinder. The same probably applies to the 3rd gen.
 

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I don't know or have the sequence for the 16 Pilot....but using "Newton" has always worked for me in the past _ I generally have no one to help. It take longer but will work or at least has worked on all of my Honda's up to the 07 Pilot I have.
 

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Every car I had I always replace the bleeder screws with speed bleeders. Most of the time I don't have anyone to help so it's makes a brake job easy for one person. Here's the bleeding sequence.

 

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Hi everyone, needing the brake bleed steps for the 2016 PIlot. The Pilot was MFG'd in May of this year, if you guys have a MFG date of 5/16 or newer and you guys are experiencing braking issue where the pedal travel is further than it should be, please advise. So far after driving a loaner PIlot which had 10K miles and driving mine, I can see that brake pedal travel is much further on mine than the loaner. Which tells me that there is air in the lines and I need to bleed it. I tried twice to address this with the dealer but both times the technician says it works fine and give the vehicle time to break in, I do not believe that really applies to a new vehicle with brand new brakes. Was not going to sit there and argue with the guy. Would have lost my cool and told him he needs to go back school.

In any case, I have decided to tackle this on my own and bleed the brakes to resolve the issue, appreciate your guy's input.

Same issue here. Brake pedal travel is low. Did bleeding the brakes corrected the issue? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi everyone, the bleeding of the brakes did help considerably. Is it perfect nope, it is much better than before, I still feel that a complete bleeding of the whole system would be the ultimate fix. The dealership even with my pleading will not address it even when I state their loaner vehicle brakes have less travel vs mine. Will keep complaining until they fix it completely at some point.
 

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Old thread, but just bled the brakes on my 16 pilot for the first time. Used the motive bleeder, dry method. Takes a little more time dry, but no mess. Hardest part is getting seal around the reservoir. id advise taking the tire off, much easier. Only had one or two tiny bubbles come out the rears. 10-12 psi on the bleeder.
 

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Vacuum bleeding the system is very effective, and eliminates air being drawn into the system at the wheel cylinders. Takes about 15 minutes total to bleed the system, and 30 minutes to flush.
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I built my own apparatus using a compressed air powered Venturi, a couple of 1 gallon glass jugs and the fittings from a Lisle “one man brake bleeder” kit. Cost me about US$150 in parts, including the J250 Venturi from Vaccon. A fun project and a must-have if you also have vehicles with hydraulic clutches.
 
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