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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My 2011 Honda Pilot wouldn’t start the other day, so I jumped it and went on. It sat outside for 8-9 hours and started right up, however later that day it was dead again. The voltage was reading just over 12.5 on the battery. I attempted to start it and it dropped to 12.3. I jumped it and it started right up. Once running it holds around 14.1V so I imagine it’s not the alternator. And based on the battery voltage I am assuming it’s not the battery. Any ideas?
 

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If it's not holding a charge, you may have a parasitic drain. Any aftermarket accessories that have been added to the vehicle? Alarm system, camera etc?
You might also check the ground cables for corrosion. Disconnect and reconnect from chassis. Clean if needed. There is a ground strap from the engine to chassis that can effect starter efficiency if in poor condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it's not holding a charge, you may have a parasitic drain. Any aftermarket accessories that have been added to the vehicle? Alarm system, camera etc?
You might also check the ground cables for corrosion. Disconnect and reconnect from chassis. Clean if needed. There is a ground strap from the engine to chassis that can effect starter efficiency if in poor condition.
The only new thing is LED bulbs, which draw less power, and shut off with the car. Can’t imagine that being the issue. There’s no corrosion on the terminals or cables, but I’ll check the ground strap. Could just be a bad battery, just very strange.
 

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My 2011 Honda Pilot wouldn’t start the other day, so I jumped it and went on. It sat outside for 8-9 hours and started right up, however later that day it was dead again. The voltage was reading just over 12.5 on the battery. I attempted to start it and it dropped to 12.3. I jumped it and it started right up. Once running it holds around 14.1V so I imagine it’s not the alternator. And based on the battery voltage I am assuming it’s not the battery. Any ideas?
Not unusual for a battery to be on a downward slope at 3 yr but do inspect your battery connections for corrosion and/or decay. I’ve had ground connections with severe corrosion that affected proper charging and intermittent start issues. Inexpensive replacement 4-6 gauge cables at the local Walmart.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I keep the terminals clean, but I’ve never even thought of the grounds until now. Unfortunately that wasn’t the issue. I will buy a battery and hope that it’s the reason for these weird issues.
 

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I keep the terminals clean, but I’ve never even thought of the grounds until now. Unfortunately that wasn’t the issue. I will buy a battery and hope that it’s the reason for these weird issues.
Before you buy a new battery, try measuring the voltage with the vehicle running, the high beam headlights on, the rear defogger on and the vent fan on the highest speed setting.
Also, with everything off, try measuring the current being drawn from the battery.
 

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I keep the terminals clean, but I’ve never even thought of the grounds until now. Unfortunately that wasn’t the issue. I will buy a battery and hope that it’s the reason for these weird issues.
Local Advance or Autozone offer free battery / alternator testing. That could help eliminate some variables.
 

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A 100% battery is 12.7 volts or higher. 12.5 is 75%, 3 year old battery would be starting to loose its punch. Also, if within the past couple years the battery died due to inside lights being left on overnight etc, that can weaken it as well. As mentioned above, you could have too high of a parasitic draw while the car is not being used.(not on) To test for that,

If you have a weak or drained battery after the vehicle’s been sitting for a while, here’s a simple procedure to measure the amount of parasitic current draw:

1. Make sure all switches are turned off, then remove the ignition key. Wait at least 5 minutes for all current reduction timers to turn off (sleep mode).

2. Loosen (but don’t remove) the negative battery cable.

3. Set your ammeter to the 10A scale if it doesn’t have an auto-range capability.

4. Use an alligator clip to connect your ammeter’s positive lead to the negative battery terminal.

5. Hold the ammeter’s negative lead firmly against the negative battery post.

6. Slide the negative battery terminal over your ammeter’s negative lead, and read the current draw. Max Milli Amp draw should be around 35 millis or less
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before you buy a new battery, try measuring the voltage with the vehicle running, the high beam headlights on, the rear defogger on and the vent fan on the highest speed setting.
Also, with everything off, try measuring the current being drawn from the battery.
While at idle it’s at 14.1, when I turn the radio and high beams on it drops to 13.8-14. While driving it will fluctuate between 14.3-14.7 when accelerating and what not.
 

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While at idle it’s at 14.1, when I turn the radio and high beams on it drops to 13.8-14.
What is the voltage when you also turn on the rear defogger and set the vent fan speed to high?
For another experiment, with the engine off, play the radio for about 15 minutes and then try to start the engine.
 

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For another experiment, with the engine off, play the radio for about 15 minutes and then try to start the engine.
Last time I tried that outside Costco in the wifeys car 🚗 as she shopped I had to go in and buy a battery before she came out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What is the voltage when you also turn on the rear defogger and set the vent fan speed to high?
For another experiment, with the engine off, play the radio for about 15 minutes and then try to start the engine.
I stole the battery out of my buddies truck and did everything as normal. I didn’t have any issues, so I’ve went ahead and bought another one. So far no issues. Just a weak battery I guess. The previous owner said he never got more than 1-2 year out of a battery in the pilot.
 

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I stole the battery out of my buddies truck and did everything as normal. I didn’t have any issues, so I’ve went ahead and bought another one. So far no issues. Just a weak battery I guess. The previous owner said he never got more than 1-2 year out of a battery in the pilot.
Which brand and model (or CCA rating) was the old battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Which brand and model (or CCA rating) was the old battery?
Interstate 600. The one I switched for the day was a diehard 600, I just bought a cheap Walmart ever start in case it wasn’t a battery issue after all. (650cca)
 

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Those "cheap" walmart Batteries have lasted me longer than DieHard or Interstate.
IME the Max Start flood batteries are as good as those big name products. Manufacturers get switched and they may come from the same source. Getting 3-5 years out of them for under a 100 ain’t bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Those "cheap" walmart Batteries have lasted me longer than DieHard or Interstate.
That’s what everyone I've talked to said. That’s what I ran in my Ford Escape, but I dropped and cracked it. It was leaking the entire time I had that car, but I never had an issue lol.
 
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