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Battery drain

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I have a 2015 pilot and the other day I was idling at work on break and the battery light cam on then the vtm light and the car died( but all lights still worked.). I got it jumped and running and I was able to drive 20 miles home and the battery light never came back on. So today I put a new battery in it and the same thing happened, the alternator works fine so I don't know what it is but a few days before this happened the tpms light came on for no reason. I don't know what to do
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Are you sure there was a problem with your original battery? When you replaced it did the shop where you bought it test your old battery? Can you get to a local auto store that will let you hook up a Scanner? If the alternator works "fine" it's got to be something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a 2015 pilot and the other day I was idling at work on break and the battery light cam on then the vtm light and the car died( but all lights still worked.). I got it jumped and running and I was able to drive 20 miles home and the battery light never came back on. So today I put a new battery in it and the same thing happened, the alternator works fine so I don't know what it is but a few days before this happened the tpms light came on for no reason. I don't know what to do
Are you sure there was a problem with your original battery? When you replaced it did the shop where you bought it test your old battery? Can you get to a local auto store that will let you hook up a Scanner? If the alternator works "fine" it's got to be something else.
The original battery tested good but I went ahead and bought a new one. The scan tool didn't show anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you sure there was a problem with your original battery? When you replaced it did the shop where you bought it test your old battery? Can you get to a local auto store that will let you hook up a Scanner? If the alternator works "fine" it's got to be something else.
Nevermind, I retested the alternator and it's going bad. Gonna be a crappy weekend now. :(
 

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Replacing an alternator is not a difficult job. (at least on the 2006). However, many members have had early failures with rebuilt or other cheap alternators. Search alternator threads and you will find some members recommending Honda OEM or Denso parts, unless you don't mind doing another alternator swap out next month.
 

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The alternator will adjust it's output to what is needed. If you get a 14.5v out of it it is probably still good. Did you test at the alternator or the battery? We had a bad battery in our Accord and I had AAA come out and give me a jump. The tech said I needed a new alternator and showed me the low reading he was getting. I tested it later after putting in the new battery and everything tested fine. Again, the voltage will go up and down from the Alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The alternator will adjust it's output to what is needed. If you get a 14.5v out of it it is probably still good. Did you test at the alternator or the battery? We had a bad battery in our Accord and I had AAA come out and give me a jump. The tech said I needed a new alternator and showed me the low reading he was getting. I tested it later after putting in the new battery and everything tested fine. Again, the voltage will go up and down from the Alternator.
Tested the alternator. Was getting 13v
 

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If the spool valve was leaking I'd be losing engine oil correct???? My oil level has never dropped. Never replaced an alternator this dirty before
You may not notice a drop in level, but that alternator is covered in oil. Your new one will be destroyed too if you don’t fix the oil leak asap.
 

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If the spool valve was leaking I'd be losing engine oil correct???? My oil level has never dropped. Never replaced an alternator this dirty before
A tablespoon or 2 of oil would completely drench your alternator but I doubt you would notice this on the dipstick.
Spool valve gaskets are available as knockoff OEM on Amazon for $13, mahle from O'Reilly $45, or new OEM spool valve for $180.
 

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I would suggest the OEM part. The TSB for this issue calls for replacing not just the gaskets but the whole upper half of the assembly as the machining of the mating surface also contributes to the issue. Either go with the OEM part or the standalone Mahle gaskets. Don't put on an aftermarket assembly.
 
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