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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings,
I have a 2010 EX-L and recently the backup camera has become useless. It's gone from being so bright that the image is almost unreadable to almost completely black. I called the dealership and they want over $1K just for the replacement part. I'm trying to troubleshoot myself, so yesterday I got all the trim off (broke 3 retainer clips and the clips on the black hand-hold cup but thats another story) and isolated the harness clip that connects to the camera. No amount of wiggling or cleaning it seems to make any difference. I got the back plate off and tried to undo the screws that hold the camera to the bracket but they pretty much disintegrated when I tried to un-screw them, and ultimately I really am no closer to getting this resolved than I was when I started. I'm really on the fence as to whether or not to just put it all back together and take it to the shop, or sell it and get the new Pilot I've been wanting for a while. Does anyone have any experience in this and would be able to point me to what to try next? The mirror? The wiring harness as it passes through to the body? I'd really just like to determine if it is the camera itself that's gone, so I can make the call on whether or not to spring for the part and replace it myself, or sell it and not throw good money after bad.

Thanks!
 

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To begin with, see this post by me about getting a replacement camera:

Next, the 12-pin connector at your mirror:
1 - black - camera video signal - to camera connector pin 3
2 - green - camera video ground - to camera connector pin 4
3 - white - camera VCC power - to camera connector pin 6
5 - yellow - incoming power to mirror
6 - orange - reverse signal
7 - grey - shield for 1/2/3/8, to camera connector pin 2
8 - red - camera power ground - to camera connector pin 5
12 - black - ground.

I suppose you got a multimeter. Best way to test is 2 wires at a time. Disconnect connectors from both mirror and camera.
At camera, use a piece of wire to connect pins 3 and 4, then at mirror, test for continuity between pins 1 and 2.
At camera, jump pins 5 and 6, at mirror test pins 3 and 8.
This should tell you if wire between mirror and camera is OK.

With car running, check DC voltage at mirror connector between pins 5 and 12. Should be 12V.
Also check DC voltage between pins 6 and 12. Normally should be 0, and become 12V when reverse is engaged.
Finally, with mirror connector plugged in, check voltage between pins 5 and 6 on the camera connector, both normally and when in reverse. It should be like 8-9V

Testing if your mirror display: With mirror plugged in, camera connector unplugged:
Get any kind of device - camcorder, game console, DVD player - that has composite A/V output (red/white/yellow RCA) You might need to hack up one of your old A/V cables so you can hook the center pin of the yellow RCA to pin 3 on camera connector, and the collar to pin 4.
Turn the device on so you know it outputs video and engage reverse on the car. Does your mirror display show the video from device? Does the picture look OK or too bright/dark?

If both harness and display check out OK, problem is in the camera.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
To begin with......
Excellent advice, just what I was looking for.

Many thanks!

PS. One thing I have learned is not to attempt this kind of thing when it's freezing outside. The plastic trim and clips are very brittle and break very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
So I'm back and have a new problem. I bought the whole chrome backplate assembly, including camera, from a seller on EBay. The new part looks great but has a different camera connector. It's smaller and has 6 wires instead of the 5 that my current part has. The other connector (license plate lights) looks and fits properly. The first thing I want to do is switch the connectors, but I cant seem to find a way to pull the wires out. There is a small sliding clip on mine and a removable clip on the new one that I can remove, but even with them removed, the wires wont budge, do I have to cut them? Any idea as to what the 6th wire is for (it's blue). I can supply pics if that helps.

EDIT
I undid the wire wrap and discovered the blue wire is just a jumper to the black wire, and this is on the plug side, so it looks like the camera doesn't need it. I still have the issue of how to un-pin the wires from the harness though. At the moment my best solution is to cut the plug off and splice the wires to attach it to the new unit. I'm reluctant to do this as the wires are quite thin and I'd need to individually wrap them afterwards, but I dont want to mangle the plug getting the pins out and it looks like the pins are different sizes anyway. Any wisdom on this is appreciated.
 

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The 6-pin means you got a 2012+ camera, not a 2009-11. Should still work. The extra pin is 'camera presence' that, when grounded, tells the display unit that a camera is connected. The 2009-11 does not need that. Just make sure you connect the video signal, video ground, camera vcc and ground properly.

If pins are diff size, you are better off slicing the connectors off with about 1-2 inches of wire (undo the harness a bit) and then soldering up the wires.

You don't need to 'individually wrap them' Get bits of heatshrink onto them before soldering and then go over with a heat gun.

You could also get some of these to make it extra easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I got it fixed. It wasn't an easy soldering job as the wires were very thin and there's very little room to work with. I hadn't seen those hot-air soldering tubes before. As it turns out they would likely have been ideal, but I worked with what I had. It looks pretty good and is in place and functioning well. @scorrpio Thanks for the help on this!
 
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