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Discussion Starter #1
Here are some more "detailed" instructions on how to do this mod that I put together. This turns off the Auto Idle Stop System by default and lets you continue to use the button to turn it On and Off as usual. You do not loose any functionality, it is just Off by default instead of being On by default.

But first, lets give credit where credit is due based on the posts I have seen.

RGVPilot was the first to post an idea on doing this. This method may have worked but it was basically simulating a stuck switch and that really isn't the same as what we see here.
Permanently disable Auto Stop Start!

Recently, cvcy24 posted this method but used a different board that shows out of stock.
Made an Automatic Auto Start/Stop Disabler DIY

I wanted to use a method where the parts were easy to get and the module used has been around for some time now. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for anything that goes wrong. My method does use a fuse so the chances of anything going wrong if you follow these instructions should be very minimal if at all. While this does give a lot of step by step detail on how to do this, you should have a basic understanding of what you are doing and are comfortable working with electronics and wiring.

This modification uses the commonly found FRM01 module. At the end, are the current links for the parts used.

Details of the Modification

Pin 1 (Green) is the 12v terminal that is active in Accessory and Run mode.

When pressing the Idle Stop switch, Pin 1 and Pin 7 (Yellow) are connected momentarily. When releasing the switch, this connection is broken.

This modification is simply just duplicating the momentary button press. The button continues to function as normal but the Auto Idle Stop System is automatically turned off 5 seconds after entering into the Accessory mode.

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Using jumper wires (18 AWG Recommended) connected in parallel to the wires on the plug, connect them as follows.

Pin 4 (Black) connects to DC-

Pin 1 (Green) connects to DC+ and COM using a 1 Amp inline fuse as shown below.

Pin 7 (Yellow) connects to NO

When the relay activates, it will connect the COM (Green) and NO (Yellow) wires together for 1 second.

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The module needs to be set to Function #3 for this installation.

1> Long press [SET], enters into [Parameter setting mode];

2> Short press [SET], until the [MD] indicator light is on if not already, press [NUM+] or [NUM-],
adjust the digital tube display to "- - 03";

3> Short press [SET], T1 light will be on, press [NUM+] or [NUM-] to set T1="0 0 0 5", (5 second count down after it receives power)

4> Short press [SET], T2 light will be on, press [NUM+] or [NUM-] to set T2=”0 0 0 1”, (Relay is on 1 second simulating pressing the button)

4> Long press [SET], this saves the settings and exits [Parameter setting mode], the function starts running immediately.



Removing the center panel to access the wiring for the modification.

  • Remove Front Rubber Mat
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  • Remove Center Console Panel by first removing the two screws.
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  • Next, open the center console and lift up firmly at the center edge of the panel. The clips shown below will pop out as you lift up.
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  • Put a soft towel down over the center console where you removed the panel from and flip over the panel to give you access to the wire plug. Currently there are two options to connect the wires to the plug. You can use Quick Splice connectors on the wire itself, but this will leave small cuts in the insulation if you ever remove them later. Or you can just strip back the ends of the new wire, fold it over on itself and then insert it down into the connector along side the existing wire making a tight fit. Make sure the wire is making good contact with the pin inside of the connector. Once the wires are all inserted, use a zip tie or electrical tap to secure them in place so they won’t fall out. I am still trying to locate the factory connector(s) to see if they can be purchased and make this more plug and play. Secure the board to the bottom of the panel making sure nothing will get shorted out. Using the optional case is more insurance that this will not happen. Do a final test to make sure everything is working and install the panel in the reverse order.
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If at some point this link becomes unusable, just search for FRM01 to find a new listing.

(FRM01) DC 12V Programmable Multifunction Time Delay Relay Module with Segment LEDs Display & H/L Level Trigger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BT32T1M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is a link to a case that is currently available on Ebay if you would like to mount the module in a case.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-For-FRM01-Relay-Timer-Module-More-Enclosed/172550623624

18 Gauge Fuse Holder for Regular Standard Blade Type Fuse
https://www.amazon.com/KOLACEN-Automotive-Truck-Holder-Pieces/dp/B07C5JGFRH/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=18+gauge+inline+fuse+holder&qid=1569211866&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1

1 Amp ATO/ ATC fuse
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-ATO-Fuse/dp/B000K2ILNG/ref=sr_1_15?crid=22SNCV2E2672I&keywords=1+amp+fuse&qid=1569210917&s=gateway&sprefix=1+amp+,aps,198&sr=8-15&th=1&psc=1
 

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You wouldn't happen to have pictures of the final assembly and connections to the wiring harness, would you? Just curious how it all should look once it's connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You wouldn't happen to have pictures of the final assembly and connections to the wiring harness, would you? Just curious how it all should look once it's connected.
I will be posting them yes. I haven't done the final install yet as my case doesn't get here until tomorrow so I didn't want to do the final connections until I have it and then I will take the pictures.
 

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Oh okay, thanks! Looking forward to the pictures and doing this myself once all my parts come in. My case should arrive late next week, so it might be a project for next weekend.
 

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How do you do this on an Elite with wireless charging? I saw that question asked before but don't recall seeing an answer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do you do this on an Elite with wireless charging? I saw that question asked before but don't recall seeing an answer.
Since I don't have a 2019 with the wireless charging I can't say for sure. I did confirm that the same switch (Part # 35580-TG7-A01) is used for 2016-2019 so I don't see why there would be a difference. If the same switch is used and the same two pins are being connected with the button press, I don't see why the wireless changing would play into this unless the removal of the panel is slightly different. When I looked at the wireless charging unit to see if it was feasible to be added to a pre 2019 vehicle, it looked like the charger just mounted to the bottom of the panel below the tray and of course would have the additional wiring to support it. If someone who has a 2019 with the wireless changing takes off the panel and confirms the same wires are connected to the switch, then we could say with confidence that this mod would apply as well. A VERY simple and quick test before ordering any parts is to first confirm the switch wires are the same as shown here and if they are, just take a jumper wire and momentarily jump Pins 1 & 7 to simulate pressing the button. If that toggles the feature on and off, then this mod will apply. We aren't doing anything special with the computer system or interfacing with it directly. We are simply just providing \ duplicating a contact closure on the outside of the switch vs inside. Just as an FYI, Pins 4 & 5 are used by the Drive Mode switch for its contact closure trigger.
 

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Since I don't have a 2019 with the wireless charging I can't say for sure. I did confirm that the same switch (Part # 35580-TG7-A01) is used for 2016-2019 so I don't see why there would be a difference. If the same switch is used and the same two pins are being connected with the button press, I don't see why the wireless changing would play into this unless the removal of the panel is slightly different. When I looked at the wireless charging unit to see if it was feasible to be added to a pre 2019 vehicle, it looked like the charger just mounted to the bottom of the panel below the tray and of course would have the additional wiring to support it. If someone who has a 2019 with the wireless changing takes off the panel and confirms the same wires are connected to the switch, then we could say with confidence that this mod would apply as well. A VERY simple and quick test before ordering any parts is to first confirm the switch wires are the same as shown here and if they are, just take a jumper wire and momentarily jump Pins 1 & 7 to simulate pressing the button. If that toggles the feature on and off, then this mod will apply. We aren't doing anything special with the computer system or interfacing with it directly. We are simply just providing \ duplicating a contact closure on the outside of the switch vs inside. Just as an FYI, Pins 4 & 5 are used by the Drive Mode switch for its contact closure trigger.
My concern was removal of the panel due to the charging pad being there. I didn't see how it comes off, but only took a quick look.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It won't let me edit my original post so here are some pics of my install.

The jumper between DC+ and COM needs to be routed as shown so the case will close properly. You can choose to run it around the outside but I did it this way to keep it cleaner.
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I soldered the inline fuse in place followed by using heat shrink tube.
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I chose to place the board in the right hand side of the console to try and avoid any liquid that might spill on it through the buttons. Liquid spilled on the buttons will run down around the buttons onto the floor so if you mount the board to the bottom of the switch, liquid could short it out. I feel like it is less likely to happen in this location. I used a zip tie to secure it to the bracket so it will not move or cause rattles.
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Strip back approximately 3/4 or an inch of the insulation.
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Now fold back the exposed wire onto itself to double up the thickness. Once you do this, you will want to insert it down into the connector making sure it is a tight fit and no wire is exposed.
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Once the three wires are inserted, use electrical tape to secure them to the existing wires to hold them in place.
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The final result is a fairly clean install I feel and it works perfectly!
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Discussion Starter #12
FYI I was trying to do a second module for my son's 2019 and I followed Chipworkz guide but it would not program correctly. after further investigation I found that the NX settings must be set a 0101 for the functions to work properly, I must have changed it somehow when I first started setting it up. Here is the instructions for all the functions:
Thanks for adding that note in case that happens to someone else! Yes the NX 0101 setting means that Timer 1 will use a time unit of 1 second (the first 01) and Timer 2 (the second 01) will do the same. So setting T1 = 0005 equals 5 seconds.
I said before I did this mode that I personally didn't have an issue with the feature but I did see the value in having it off by default. Now that I have done this, I am actually hitting the switch to turn the Auto Idle Stop feature back on almost every time a get into the car. 😄
 

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Thanks for adding that note in case that happens to someone else! Yes the NX 0101 setting means that Timer 1 will use a time unit of 1 second (the first 01) and Timer 2 (the second 01) will do the same. So setting T1 = 0005 equals 5 seconds.
I said before I did this mode that I personally didn't have an issue with the feature but I did see the value in having it off by default. Now that I have done this, I am actually hitting the switch to turn the Auto Idle Stop feature back on almost every time a get into the car. 😄
For Chipworkz.
Here are the colors of the wires on my son's 2019 Pilot Touring, if you can figure out which 3 wires we need to tap to install the device please let me know, thanks, Pepper4k
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Not having much luck getting a reply from Chipworkz so if anybody can take a look at the above photos and determine which 3 will let the module function I would appreciate some guidance. Thanks
 

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Not having much luck getting a reply from Chipworkz so if anybody can take a look at the above photos and determine which 3 will let the module function I would appreciate some guidance. Thanks
The wire colors on your photo is different than on my 2016 Pilot Touring AWD. but i dont see why the placement would be different. you should refer to the diagram from the early post below:

1576622483240.png
should be the top two black wires and the yellow wire in your photo.

I just got mine setup using doorbell wire from home depot and i'm running the wires into the arm rest storage box with a 3 port quick disconnect connector so i can take it off if i bring it into service.
works great. there's enough room to fit the wires beneath the hole for the storage lamp without any drilling.
 

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disconnect setup in center storage. fit the wires under the storage lamp which just pops out and has a slot under it where the wires fit. no drilling. i'll disconnect it if i take the care into service.

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Tried the 2 black wires and the yellow. For some reason the wire that should be 12v drops to 4v immediately when the car starts so the timer cannot start it’s programmed sequence. Anyone else have a 2019 Touring that has successfully applied the fix? Sure would love someone who can explain the pinouts on this model to jump in here!!
 

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This mod will only work on 2016-2018 Pilots. Honda changed the circuit on the 2019. That's why the wire colors do not match.

2017

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2019
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This mod will only work on 2016-2018 Pilots. Honda changed the circuit on the 2019. That's why the wire colors do not match.

2017

View attachment 133693

2019
View attachment 133694
Simple question, If the mod depended on just the 3 wires, which just happened to be on the same connector:
1. Hot (12v)+
2. Ground -
3. Auto stop/start (yellow)
Could one just find a Hot and a Ground somewhere under the console and then connect the trigger wire from the mod to the yellow wire as in the 2017 diagram to turn the auto stop/start off? Since the power is only applied for one second after the power is energized and then deactivates would not that work? Thanks
 

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Here is an option I come up with for the 2019+ Pilot. Get the +12 volts off of the Console Accessory Power Socket which is a brown wire. That voltage should be switched and not a constant 12 volts. Your ground (black) and yellow (start/stop) wires are fine. Including the modified circuit drawing, and console socket wiring. Good luck.

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