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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If so, I'm curious how you hooked up the electrical wiring and its on/off button to a fuse panel. There is virtually no info about how that unit is installed on the svcmcontroller web site. I understand the standard S-VCM Controller model very well, but am curious about the custom model installation if you got that one. Thanks
 

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I'm very interested in this too.
Would love to see pics of the install and how the switch it mounted.

Thanks!!!!
 

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??

I'm fine with the standard model SVCM, on both our Pilots.
The only time I'd ever want it turned off is when I want to check my cooling system with my scanner. I unclip it temporarily. I periodically want to make sure both cooling fans are operating properly. The negative is waiting until the engine is cool to reinstall or you may trip a trouble code.
 
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The only time I'd ever want it turned off is when I want to check my cooling system with my scanner. I unclip it temporarily. I periodically want to make sure both cooling fans are operating properly. The negative is waiting until the engine is cool to reinstall or you may trip a trouble code.
I would think that you would have the same issue if you switched it back on when hot.
I see no reason to have a switch and have punch a hole through the firewall for a wire.
 

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I would think that you would have the same issue if you switched it back on when hot.
I see no reason to have a switch and have punch a hole through the firewall for a wire.
I see a whole lot of work with little return.
 
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If so, I'm curious how you hooked up the electrical wiring and its on/off button to a fuse panel. There is virtually no info about how that unit is installed on the svcmcontroller web site. I understand the standard S-VCM Controller model very well, but am curious about the custom model installation if you got that one. Thanks
I don't think many people opted for the custom model, at least I haven't seen comments about it or its installation here. I have seen people elsewhere install it and the hardest part is running the wire through the firewall. The easiest way seems to be to attach the wire to a sharp screwdriver and poke it through the rubber grommet just above the factory wire bundle. Those who untape the factory bundle to put the wire in with it live to regret it later. If you order the correct fuse size (some years use the large fuses others use the small ones) you just need to pick a switched fuse slot like #13 for the power takeoff. The little box with the switch mounts with velcro tape (supplied) on the footwell wall to the left of the parking brake pedal.

I'll add that more than one person that has installed the custom S-VCM has commented that for the amount of work to install it, considering they never use the switch, if they had to do it over again ... they wouldn't.

The standard SVCM with a fuse is very easy to disable, either by removing the fuse or disconnecting it from the battery. If things like idle relearn are important to you, the VCM TunerII might be a better choice as it contains an accelerometer that disables it when the car is not moving.

Just keep in mind, turning the VCM disabler on and off can trigger DTCs under certain conditions. And the more features you add to a device that has one basic job, the overall reliability will suffer. This is definitely a device where you want to KISS. The designer even uses the version without a fuse because he says it's more reliable. There is built in voltage protection so it doesn't need a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think many people opted for the custom model, at least I haven't seen comments about it or its installation here.
Apparently so. Even the S-VCM manufacturer claims custom models only amount to 3% of sales. Thanks for responding. The only write up I've seen about a custom model installation was on an Odyssey owner's site, but it left a few unanswered questions. I'm familiar with installing add-ons to my fuse box, which is how I hardwired my dash camera. I actually have an unused wire already going thru the firewall that would be an easy path for this contraption to follow, plus an unused switched-fuse slot easily accessible. I've already wondered if I should simply just use that for a S-VCM (or Tuner2) power wire instead of considering the custom model. Yeah, I know this is a lot of work, but so is getting to the Pilot battery that Honda buried in the bowels of the engine compartment. I'm not interested in the custom model's on/off switch at all (other than understanding how it is re-wired once power lines are routed thru the firewall). For a lot of other reasons I don't want to explain or defend, I simply want to avoid a battery hook up, and sleep mode current draw. Having it energize with the rest of the engine is okay with me, I think. Which is why I made this post in the first place, simply hoping to learn about some of the actual installation tasks, instead of pestering the manufacturer with my tedious how to questions.
 

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Apparently so. Even the S-VCM manufacturer claims custom models only amount to 3% of sales. Thanks for responding. The only write up I've seen about a custom model installation was on an Odyssey owner's site, but it left a few unanswered questions. I'm familiar with installing add-ons to my fuse box, which is how I hardwired my dash camera. I actually have an unused wire already going thru the firewall that would be an easy path for this contraption to follow, plus an unused switched-fuse slot easily accessible. I've already wondered if I should simply just use that for a S-VCM (or Tuner2) power wire instead of considering the custom model. Yeah, I know this is a lot of work, but so is getting to the Pilot battery that Honda buried in the bowels of the engine compartment. I'm not interested in the custom model's on/off switch at all (other than understanding how it is re-wired once power lines are routed thru the firewall). For a lot of other reasons I don't want to explain or defend, I simply want to avoid a battery hook up, and sleep mode current draw. Having it energize with the rest of the engine is okay with me, I think. Which is why I made this post in the first place, simply hoping to learn about some of the actual installation tasks, instead of pestering the manufacturer with my tedious how to questions.
If that's the case just order the stock version with no fuse and splice it to the wire already through the firewall and connect to the spare slot in the fuse box if it's switched or powered by the ignition switch or relay.

If you're concerned about parasitic draw, it's only about 8ma. A flea on an elephant's back. Your key fob receiver and security system pulls more. Personally, I wouldn't bother with the work or risk to attach a non-oem device to my car's electrical system to avoid a 8ma draw, other than directly to the battery.

I've exchanged emails with the manufacturer and he is very accessible and helpful. At least he was with me. Others say their mileage varied.
 
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