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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Failed #6 Intake Cam Lobe - with Sound.

Started making a new rotating noise this week at about 126k miles that increased with engine rpm. Oil is changed every 6k with Mobil 1 5w20. Timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump all replaced 2 years ago with AISIN kit at 102k. Thought it could be the tenisoner as so many other youtube videos have shown, so I replaced it and the pulleys and the water pump AGAIN this weekend with No Change. Thinking of tearing into the heads next, but fearing the worst that is bad ring or rod bearing? What do you think?

YouTube

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Take the accessory belt off and manually rotate/spin each of the wheels that it rides on including the idler/tensioner.
One of them I suspect is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Running the engine without the serpentine belt on does Not change the sound. The last video showing the timing belt tensioner and pulleys is running without a serpentine belt. I also replaced those again for the 2nd time (including water pump) and still no change in sound.
I'm thinking valve train now or worse crank bearing or rod bearing?

Take the accessory belt off and manually rotate/spin each of the wheels that it rides on including the idler/tensioner.
One of them I suspect is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update

It is the "wheee" bearing type sound.

Update: Removed intake and valve covers, rocker arms and found #6 cylinder intake cam lobe pitted and rough. Replacing intake cam and #6 intake rocker. Will update once back together to see if the sound stopped.

i am confused!
actually what for what kind of sound are talking here?
it should be exactly clearly.

Please clarify from your end.

Thanks.....
 

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It is the "wheee" bearing type sound.

Update: Removed intake and valve covers, rocker arms and found #6 cylinder intake cam lobe pitted and rough. Replacing intake cam and #6 intake rocker. Will update once back together to see if the sound stopped.

i am confused!
actually what for what kind of sound are talking here?
it should be exactly clearly.

Please clarify from your end.

Thanks.....

Let me know how hard the cam is to replace and how many hours it took you. I have the same scenario except #5 .
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Photos added

Spent first 8-10 hrs replacing all timing belt components and water pump. After that the next day spend another 8-10 hrs removing intake and both valve covers and rockers to inspect cams. Reinstalled rear rockers, set clearances, rtv corners of cam cover and installed cam cover included in that 8-10 hrs.
New cam and rocker arrived today. Plan to install this weekend. Hope and Pray this was making the noise.
Jocute - Do you have a similar noise? Did you find similar damage? Was your rocker bad? Mine looks fine and spins fine, but I'm going to replace it anyways. Are you using VCMuzzer? I was not aware of this device until now!
Front head looks terrible with dark burnt oil on all components and some sludge build up. Rear head looks great. Strange how the front valvetrain includes the only two cylinders #5 and #6 that do Not have deactivation and are in the worst condition? I always used Mobil 1 since we got it at 70k, but not sure what original owner did. I'm thinking used dino oil and did Not change frequently?
Here are some photos from my teardown:

10 Honda Pilot Camshaft Failure - Google Photos

Let me know how hard the cam is to replace and how many hours it took you. I have the same scenario except #5 .
 

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can you do me a favor and look to see if those spark plug tubes have lower seals? getting oil in the tubes but mixed answers if there are lower tube seals. thank you
 

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Dang i wish i would have seen this thread earlier.


We have seen several Pilots with cam pitting that make this noise usually removing the front valve cover and spinning the engine reveals what we hear
 

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Jocute - Do you have a similar noise? Did you find similar damage? Was your rocker bad? Mine looks fine and spins fine, but I'm going to replace it anyways. Are you using VCMuzzer? I was not aware of this device until now!
Front head looks terrible with dark burnt oil on all components and some sludge build up. Rear head looks great. Strange how the front valvetrain includes the only two cylinders #5 and #6 that do Not have deactivation and are in the worst condition? I always used Mobil 1 since we got it at 70k, but not sure what original owner did. I'm thinking used dino oil and did Not change frequently?
I bought my 09 at 53k. Ran mobil 1 @ 5K mile intervals not using MM, I had serious oil consumption. I Can't remember when it started making the noise but before 100k. Then I did the 100k timing belt service and adjusted valves that is when I found a large amount of sludge and cam pitting. Unsure of the rocker condition. I have decided (against every bone in my mechanic body) to leave the sludge and cam undisturbed and change the oil change interval to 3k. My head looked just like yours, I was scared.

From experience my K20 in my EP3 civic had cam pitting that I actually monitored. A very easy engine to check and I was putting 1K miles a week on it and I eventually put a ton of miles with no problems other than noise.

I had a baffling oil sample test before this that showed silicone which was indication of conventional oil or coolant leak. I assume it was the sludge now. I emailed honda america and they denied that the cam problem was systemic but just from guessing cylinders 5 and 6 must heat up more during ECO mode. Similarly people are only having fouled plugs on cylinders 1-4. Now this is being blamed on rings but my VCM muzzler installed @ 104k stopped all oil consumption and plug fouling.

I found an old SB that stated " VCM in light throttle situations causes a vacuum on cylinders 1-4 that could increase oil consumption."

VCM = bad.


So far @ 145k still has the noise but no problems. As soon as I get a #5 or 6 misfire then I will know the cam lobe needs to be fixed. There are plenty of documented front head problems on the J35 that I wish honda would step up.

Just got another Pilot but 2013, immediately put a Muzzler on.

I am a honda fanboy and every manufacturer has its problems but.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
UPDATE 12/10:

Installed New Camshaft and replaced #6 rocker while I was in there. Set clearances and reinstalled cover with existing gaskets and installed intake manifold with New gasket. Started her up and bingo, noise was gone! Yeah!!!!! But then revealed smoking on front exhaust manifold that just wouldn't stop and got worse with revving engine. SO, had to pull intake back off again and replace Front Valve cover with NEW Aftermarket Gasket Kit (Feelpro from Advance Auto, only thing available on a Sun). So yes, I can confirm there are spark plug tube gaskets in valve cover and they are a B* to replace! And the aftermarket ones suck to reinstall the cover because they're made different and you need to press each spark tube around the seal with a thin flat blade screwdriver (even says this in the instructions!). So I would highly recommend OEM if I'd do it again. Added some Honda HT RTV on front of valve cover seal too just as extra insurance. Reassembled everything again (including timing cover, serpentine tensioner, PS pump, etc.) over 2 hours to let RTV cure some. Restarted again and No Leak now!

So the new noise was gone, but the bottom end still was very tappy/ticking still. So we ended up trading it in on a 17 Grand Cherokee. I always loved my Honda's (03 Civic, 06 Ridgeline and 10 Pilot), but this time they left me down at only 128k!

I uploaded some more pics to the same photo thread. I cleaned up the valve cover and rockers by soaking them in kerosene for a couple days and scrubbing with nylon brush. Did the same with the upper side of the head where the valve springs and head bolts where. Then drained oil and refilled.

10 Honda Pilot Camshaft Failure - Google Photos
 

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Thanks for the info. Any tricks or gotchas on replacing the camshaft, the rocker arm bridge really makes it look like a daunting. Just checking the valve clearances is hard enough.

Our next vehicle is going to be a toyota/lexus product.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
1. Be sure to set your timing for TDC and market belt on 3 pulleys before removing (front cam, rear cam and crank).
2. Follow Honda Service Manual step by step. Loosen rocker arm bolts in 3 or more steps in the order shown.
2A. Follow NEW Updated TSB for torquing rocker bridge when reinstalling in 2 torque steps.
3. Be sure to leave bolts in rocker bridge when removing off head.
4. Clean rocker arm bridge and head well before apply new RTV. Let RTV set 3 or more hours before starting engine.
5. Buy Angled Feeler Gauges to set valve clearance.
6. Buy Motion Pro 08-0073 Tappet Tool Set.
7. Buy a medium size inspection mirror with leds.
8. Use a really long breaker bar for serpentine tensioner and crank bolt.
9. Use NEW double nuts to remove EGR valve studs.
10. Use NEW valve cover gasket & camshaft access hole o-ring.
11. Replace spark plugs while you have coils out.
12. BUY A ECMuzzler ASAP!!!!

Thanks for the info. Any tricks or gotchas on replacing the camshaft, the rocker arm bridge really makes it look like a daunting. Just checking the valve clearances is hard enough.

Our next vehicle is going to be a toyota/lexus product.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also anyone local to Central PA? I have several left over parts for the 2010 pilot including the following I would like to Give Away instead of just throwing them out. Really don't want to bother packing them up either to ship, not sure if they are worth it?

- New OEM Power Steering Reservoir
- New OEM Power Steer Boots & clips, o-rings, etc.
- New 1/2 FelPro Aftermarket Valve Cover Gasket Kit
- Used AISIN water pump (less than 30k miles on it, works fine)
- Used AISIN timing belt tensioner (less than 30k miles on it, works fine)
- Other misc original used parts that probably aren't worth the cost of installing vs buying a new one.
 
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