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Discussion Starter #1
I got my audio upgrade done last week (amp and front components) and I'm 90% happy...the "10% unhappy" part is the boomy base I'm still hearing from the stock sub.

So....I was wondering if anyone has done a "simple" sub replacement with good results, i.e. a noticeable improvement. By "simple" I mean simply removing the old sub and plugging in a new one. The new one being one of those relative few on the market that will actually fit with no, or very minor, modification....and maybe adding some sound deadening material.

Also, has anyone kept the stock sub but added sound-deadening material with good results?

Like I say, I'm 90% there with the sound of my upgrade...I'd like to try to get to "98%" without TOO much in the way of effort and $$$s.
 

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Replaced the complete set of speakers and added amplifier;

4 Speakers - Infinity Kappa 62.5 - $170
12" Subwoofer - Rockford Fosgate
Punch HX2 RDF2212 - $120
Subwoofer Box - $20
2 set of Dynamat- $36
Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X - $235
Rockford Fosgate Punch 401S - $150
Installation - $100

Total $831

The sounds rock. My neighbors are beginning to dislike me.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just checking back (I'm the original poster -- see first post above) >>> so, I guess no one has done the simple sub swap?

(I think I'm going to end up doing something with the sub...with my recent upgrades, it sounds so good with the new amp and components...EXCEPT for that boomy bass coming from the stock sub!!!!)
 

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JBucey said:
Just checking back (I'm the original poster -- see first post above) >>> so, I guess no one has done the simple sub swap?

(I think I'm going to end up doing something with the sub...with my recent upgrades, it sounds so good with the new amp and components...EXCEPT for that boomy bass coming from the stock sub!!!!)
JBucey,

I guess I did a fairly simple sub install. I put in a 10" Kenwood w/ a Sony Xplod amp. Although I did have to have a trim ring spacer made. It doesn't sound to "boomy" to me. For now I'm pretty content with the sound but I'll probably have a fiberglass enclosure put in later.
 

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Personally, I thought replacing the sub in the stock location would have been more of a custom job. I put a 10" sub in a box and am very happy with it. If you reflect it off the back door just right, you can get some big sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Personally, I thought replacing the sub in the stock location would have been more of a custom job. I put a 10" sub in a box and am very happy with it. If you reflect it off the back door just right, you can get some big sound.
Ferdball,
I hear ya, but I really want/need to avoid having the box in the cargo area. With a couple of kids and fairly frequent use of the cargo space (for cargo!), I think I need to stick with the stock location.
 

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Unfortunately the only solution in getting good, rich, deep clean bass is to add a self enclosed sub. I wouldn't waste your money on an aftermarket sub in the same stock enclosure.
 

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I think it is possible to fit a larger sub in the stock enclosure although I don't know how much of an improvement it is.
Check out this thread for some pictures from Luis and a really great graphic illustration on how to do it by tim.s.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Originally posted by JBucey (me)

I got my audio upgrade done last week (amp and front components) and I'm 90% happy...the "10% unhappy" part is the boomy base I'm still hearing from the stock sub.
Well, as I said initially, after adding an amp and replacing the front components, the only thing I wasn't completely happy with was the boomy bass coming from the sub. As a first step, my installer made some adjustments at the amp and did improve the situation, but in the end, I decided to go ahead and complete the job by having him install a new sub. It's in the stock location. He swapped out 5 different subs to get the best of the 5 for the Pilot's environment (staying within my budget), made some adjustment at the amp....and now, the overall system sounds GREAT!! The overall sound is a HUGE improvement over the original stock setup...especially when I crank up the volume. :D
 

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Jbucey
Glad to hear about the better sound. Can you elablrate pplease. I am looing for a fuller richer sounds and also the boominess drives me nuts. And can u please list what speakers and amp u installed?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Glad to hear about the better sound. Can you elablrate pplease. I am looing for a fuller richer sounds and also the boominess drives me nuts. And can u please list what speakers and amp u installed?
Here's what I had installed --

Amp - Rockford Fosgate Punch 500x (under passenger seat)
Front components - Diamond Audio M361
Sub - Planet Audio P110DVC 10" Subwoofer

I stayed with the (EX) stock head unit, and have Honda's 6-disc CD changer under the driver seat.

I'm sure there are better setups, but this one is sounding pretty darn good without breaking the bank, and without disturbing the stock look of the dash, etc.
 

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Jbusey:
Thanks for the reply. Can I be more of a pain in the A#$?
What did u do with the stock amp? Does the new amp ppoer anything but the sub and is there a seperate control now for the sub with the new install? I am a novice with the new systems and appreciate all the help you can give me. And you just replaced the front speakers?
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What did u do with the stock amp? Does the new amp ppoer anything but the sub and is there a seperate control now for the sub with the new install? I am a novice with the new systems and appreciate all the help you can give me. And you just replaced the front speakers?
The new amp powers the fronts and the sub. The 'stock amp' (i.e. the head unit) powers the rear doors alone.

The rear doors were not replaced. The idea being, the role of the rears is to provide some (relatively low) ambient sound to "fill" the sound, but the sound stage is set up to be in front of you, so the fronts are priority. Only limitation with the setup is with the rear seat passengers; they don't get the whole benefit -- they do of course hear the rear doors to a greater degree.

Of course, if my budget were unlimited, I would have addressed the rears as well, but it comes down to a matter of doing what items are at the top of the priority list to get the best bang for the buck. In fact, I had e-mailed my installer, asking about the possibility of me buying some inexpensive-but-better-than-stock replacements for the rear doors, and here is his response:

As far as the rear speakers, I wouldn’t suggest replacing them at this time. They can be replaced at anytime and they have the potential of destroying the sound stage. With a Diamond speaker in the front you would only want a Diamond speaker in the rear. It will allow the system to remain tonally balanced. The worst thing about a $60.00 speaker is that they sound like $60.00 speakers! A speaker like that is fine if you just replace the front and rear and do nothing else, but I believe you are on a much better path and are better off saving your money till you hear the system with the Diamonds installed. I built a car that won its class in the IASCA finals in 1997 with a system that had factory rear speakers. For now I’d save your money.
 

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radio improvement

J:
Where did your installer wire in the new amp and speakers? What was his source out? There are no pre-outs on the head unit. Did he take the speaker outs? Is there any noise? I love your idea of how to solve this issue but everyone I talk to tells me that it wont work much better. I am still leaning to your way of doing things and I apologise for all the questions.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where did your installer wire in the new amp and speakers? What was his source out? There are no pre-outs on the head unit. Did he take the speaker outs? Is there any noise? I love your idea of how to solve this issue but everyone I talk to tells me that it wont work much better. I am still leaning to your way of doing things and I apologise for all the questions.
Sorry for the delay in responding -- I was on vacation. I have to say that I didn't really get into (or don't remember) all the details of the install process, so I can't answer your questions. Noise is minimal to non-existent (after he tweaked the initial adjustments a bit).

As far as what others say, I'd say I'm proof positive that if you get a good, experienced installer who knows what to do to get the most out of what you're trying to do, a great improvement can be had!!!!
 
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