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Almost a year ago now, I started this discussion about multiple electrical problems: 2011 Touring - multiple electrical problems Long story short - a bunch of electrical components stopped working simultaneously, including the Power Tailgate. All I really care about is getting the tailgate back into operation.

Every now and then, I've had a few hours to partially gut the interior and troubleshoot the problem. I feel like I'm onto the cause, but I don't know where to go from here.

The power tailgate control unit is BURIED under the left rear window. The input test says there should be constant 12V power to pin B11 on the plug for the control unit. My voltmeter is picking up millivolts, but nothing close to 12V. There is either a short or an open.

In the diagram below, power comes off the MICU @ P5, which is attached to the back of the underdash fuse box, and provides power to that pin @ B11. It is not the direct path as shown. Where it wanders between the fuse box and the back of the car, who knows. Even if I rip the entire interior out, the harnesses are all wrapped in black tape and no wires are visible.

My hope is, someone else has experienced this or something similar....or maybe you've had a section of the interior out and could say there's a spot where the harness could be rubbing against something that could cut into it. Any input greatly appreciated.


141143
 

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If there was a short, perhaps fuse No. 23 would blow.
Are the contacts on the MICU, the power tailgate control unit and the wiring harness connectors all in good condition?
If you run a separate wire from P5 to B11, does the power tailgate then operate?
 

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Kinda what xGS is saying. Do you have 12 volts at P5? If you have power at P5 but not B11 it could be a bad connection somewhere. There is a "Connector Index" in the factory service manual that will tell you the general location of the connectors. It may be easier to just run a new wire.
 

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As mentioned, I would run a test wire from P5 to B11 and make sure this is the issue before I started ripping things apart. If that fixes the problem I still wouldn't rip into the taped harness. As also mentioned, I would run a new wire. Good chance you will cause more problems than you will fix if you start getting into the harness.
 

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As the previous poster suggests, you don't rip into harnesses when there is a loss of continuity in a circuit - once you isolate the open, you run a separate wire alongside the harness and disconnect the bad harness wire at both ends. It's done all the time.

- Mark
 
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