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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been combing through the forum trying to find someone who has done this before. I am going to be installing a new radio in a 2006 EX-L Pilot. Also a backup camera and looking for more information on how to feed it through the vehicle.
Summed up, I am looking on how to install a new radio and back up camera. If no one has a walk-through posted, I will make one myself.
 

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I have been combing through the forum trying to find someone who has done this before. I am going to be installing a new radio in a 2006 EX-L Pilot. Also a backup camera and looking for more information on how to feed it through the vehicle.
Summed up, I am looking on how to install a new radio and back up camera. If no one has a walk-through posted, I will make one myself.
464 hits look under 06 radio install
 
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Also note that if you decide to purchase from Crutchfield that they provide very detailed instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also note that if you decide to purchase from Crutchfield that they provide very detailed instructions.
I do not plan on purchasing from Crutchfield, but I do know they have good support. If I have to, I will go to them later.
I am getting a cheap double din to install and will not be using a wiring harness. It's cheaper to just do it myself and I don't want to spend too much money on it.
 

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Good luck .. (y)
 
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Any problems that you may run into post them here so we can give you a hand . Make sure you fully understand the wiring diagram for the Pilot and do use a stupid harness you should never cut directly into the harness.

:)
 

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There were masses of conversions done on first gens documented in the audio section. User Edog did one of the best which a search will find plug his name in. Search also terms like pioneer, Kenwood, Avic etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There were masses of conversions done on first gens documented in the audio section. User Edog did one of the best which a search will find plug his name in. Search also terms like pioneer, Kenwood, Avic etc
I found the one from Edog, thank you. This is what I have been looking for.
 

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I did replace radio in my previous 2007 Pilot EX, including:
Wiring up a backup camera
Upgrading stock 10" sub with a shallow mount Pioneer
Putting in a mono amp under passenger seat to feed the new sub.

Considerations:
Just how cheap are we talking here? If you plan to actually drive around and use this thing a lot, I would not go TOO cheap. At the very least, you want solid Android Auto/Apple CarPlay support.
Factory head unit has mounting 'ears' bolted onto its sides. The holes on those ears did not match the holes on the aftermarket head unit, so getting them mounted properly would have involved additional drilling. Getting the new head properly lined up reusing the factory 'ears' would have been tricky. The mounting bracket kit that Crutchfield included for free made this process effortless.
Factory wire harness is rather hard to work with. It is just barely long enough to pull the unit out to reach behind and unplug it. Location is real cramped. I dunno how you plan to do it - tap into wires behind the factory connector, or hack the stock connector off completely. Either way, it will be a doozy of a job, and highly prone to errors. Crutchfield included a Pilot harness for free and I soldered it to the new head unit harness in the comfort of my workshop. All that was left to do in the car was to snap it in place. Again, you are welcome to do it the hard way, but I guarantee you will be using all the swear words in your dictionary by the time you get it working. And mind, if you later decide that you were TOO cheap and you want a better head unit, a harness you can just unplug will make things a LOT easier. Well worth the extra five bucks

If you plan to keep using the factory subwoofer, you will need an amp. Look for a '100W subwoofer amplifier' on Amazon - it will be a small box that takes 12 VDC, they are about $20-25.
Your head unit will likely have a 'parking brake' wire. Supposedly a safety feature, it is more of a frustration feature. Means you gotta engage parking brake AFTER you start the car in order to access setup menus etc. You can be a conformer and hook it into your parking brake detect wire - wherever that might be. You can try to ground that wire and see if that works. (It did with Pioneer, but not with Alpine) or you can look for a 'parking brake bypass' for your head unit brand on Amazon.

Now, the camera. You just gotta run the wires through that rubber conduit that routes wires from tailgate to body (pop the ends of it from metal on either side, use something like electrician snake to push camera wires through, then seat the conduit back in place.) After that just route down along one of the rear columns and along door sills to the dash. In my case, I already had a bunch of trim off and passenger and middle seats out to install the new sub and amp, so running the camera wire was real easy.

There are two general methods of wiring the camera:
1. Head unit automatically switches to camera when it detects incoming signal. That was the Pioneer I installed on my 2007. I ran the signal wire from camera to the RCA jack on the head unit, and for power, I tapped the reverse lights to the sides of license plate. Whenever those lights came on, camera came on, and head would show the image. Pros: easier wiring. Cons: cannot control camera without switching to reverse.
2. Head unit has a reverse signal input wire, camera needs to be powered contiguously. That is how it is with the Alpine in my 2013 Pilot. Alpine actually provides a dedicated connector for Alpine cameras that provides 6VDC and OEM head feeds 8VDC to OEM camera, so OEM camera worked fine with Alpine head. Otherwise, I would need to hook the camera power wires to GND and ACC. For reverse signal, I tapped into reverse lights wire on the under dash fuse box. For 2013, it was E15 (you can check my '2013 Audio overhaul' thread on Audio/Electronics section) Which wire is for the reverse lights on the 2006, I got no idea. Benefit of such wiring is I can tap the screen and get the camera feed at any time, even on a highway.
 

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you plan to keep using the factory subwoofer, you will need an amp. Look for a '100W subwoofer amplifier' on Amazon - it will be a small box that takes 12 VDC, they are about $20-25.
I'm not seeing anything on amazon for that price using that search phrase, except for some unmounted circuit type amps. I just replaced my head unit and door speakers, but I'd like to keep the original sub if I can find a cheap amp for it.

I'm also curious what make/model of aftermarket head unit people have had good results with. I've tried a couple Kenwood radios in the past couple weeks, and they both have incredibly dim screens that wash out during the day and are completely unreadable if the sun is out, and their screens collect fingerprints like crazy.
 

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People with first gen pilots and a need for better sound often pulled the stock unit out, replaced it and added amps in the trunk underfloor area.
 

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Everything I've read about the first gen subs say that there's no aftermarket subs that will fit in that space, so our only option is to reuse the old one or scrap it and have no sub at all in the original spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I did replace radio in my previous 2007 Pilot EX, including:
Wiring up a backup camera
Upgrading stock 10" sub with a shallow mount Pioneer
Putting in a mono amp under passenger seat to feed the new sub.

Considerations:
Just how cheap are we talking here? If you plan to actually drive around and use this thing a lot, I would not go TOO cheap. At the very least, you want solid Android Auto/Apple CarPlay support.
Factory head unit has mounting 'ears' bolted onto its sides. The holes on those ears did not match the holes on the aftermarket head unit, so getting them mounted properly would have involved additional drilling. Getting the new head properly lined up reusing the factory 'ears' would have been tricky. The mounting bracket kit that Crutchfield included for free made this process effortless.
Factory wire harness is rather hard to work with. It is just barely long enough to pull the unit out to reach behind and unplug it. Location is real cramped. I dunno how you plan to do it - tap into wires behind the factory connector, or hack the stock connector off completely. Either way, it will be a doozy of a job, and highly prone to errors. Crutchfield included a Pilot harness for free and I soldered it to the new head unit harness in the comfort of my workshop. All that was left to do in the car was to snap it in place. Again, you are welcome to do it the hard way, but I guarantee you will be using all the swear words in your dictionary by the time you get it working. And mind, if you later decide that you were TOO cheap and you want a better head unit, a harness you can just unplug will make things a LOT easier. Well worth the extra five bucks

If you plan to keep using the factory subwoofer, you will need an amp. Look for a '100W subwoofer amplifier' on Amazon - it will be a small box that takes 12 VDC, they are about $20-25.
Your head unit will likely have a 'parking brake' wire. Supposedly a safety feature, it is more of a frustration feature. Means you gotta engage parking brake AFTER you start the car in order to access setup menus etc. You can be a conformer and hook it into your parking brake detect wire - wherever that might be. You can try to ground that wire and see if that works. (It did with Pioneer, but not with Alpine) or you can look for a 'parking brake bypass' for your head unit brand on Amazon.

Now, the camera. You just gotta run the wires through that rubber conduit that routes wires from tailgate to body (pop the ends of it from metal on either side, use something like electrician snake to push camera wires through, then seat the conduit back in place.) After that just route down along one of the rear columns and along door sills to the dash. In my case, I already had a bunch of trim off and passenger and middle seats out to install the new sub and amp, so running the camera wire was real easy.

There are two general methods of wiring the camera:
1. Head unit automatically switches to camera when it detects incoming signal. That was the Pioneer I installed on my 2007. I ran the signal wire from camera to the RCA jack on the head unit, and for power, I tapped the reverse lights to the sides of license plate. Whenever those lights came on, camera came on, and head would show the image. Pros: easier wiring. Cons: cannot control camera without switching to reverse.
2. Head unit has a reverse signal input wire, camera needs to be powered contiguously. That is how it is with the Alpine in my 2013 Pilot. Alpine actually provides a dedicated connector for Alpine cameras that provides 6VDC and OEM head feeds 8VDC to OEM camera, so OEM camera worked fine with Alpine head. Otherwise, I would need to hook the camera power wires to GND and ACC. For reverse signal, I tapped into reverse lights wire on the under dash fuse box. For 2013, it was E15 (you can check my '2013 Audio overhaul' thread on Audio/Electronics section) Which wire is for the reverse lights on the 2006, I got no idea. Benefit of such wiring is I can tap the screen and get the camera feed at any time, even on a highway.
I went ahead and purchased the the adapter harness. I will have to wait and see if I will use it or not. I'm purchasing the vehicle this week and won't be able to tear into it to look around yet. One thing I like to do instead of getting the adapter harness is put spade connectors or similar onto the factory wire so you never have to buy a harness if you switch the unit. I'm not too worried about the sub yet, I just need to switch the HU out so I have Bluetooth.
 

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If you want to maintain the factory harness, but also tap relatively non-invasively into it, check out Posi-Taps. They are not cheap but only leave a pinhole in the insulation should you remove them. You do have to take into consideration the current draw of what is getting powered when using these since that is their major limiting factor.
 
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Looks like Nobsound units have gone up in price. Could be due to the problems in China.
Something like this should work but you will need to find a spot to set it up

The HU in my 2013 in an Alpine ILX-207, and I have no issues with screen washing out, but it is under a dash shroud. Fingerprints do happen, so I keep a microfiber handy.
Final_pandora.jpg

The 1st-gen dash has no shroud over the screen, but I recall the Pioneer unit I put in it had no issues either.
The sub I put in my 2007 was a 10" shallow mount Pioneer and it was a direct swap.

Pretty much ANY 10" shallow mount will work. But of course it will need a proper amp.
 

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One thing I like to do instead of getting the adapter harness is put spade connectors or similar onto the factory wire so you never have to buy a harness if you switch the unit.
Well, then, crimp the spade connectors onto the adapter harness then. Then if you change the head unit, you can hook it up to your existing adapter harness.

So you will have: factory wires - factory connector - adapter harness connector - adapter harness wires - spade connectors.
Trust me, hacking off factory connector or trying to splice into factory wire behind the connector is NOT something you want to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, then, crimp the spade connectors onto the adapter harness then. Then if you change the head unit, you can hook it up to your existing adapter harness.

So you will have: factory wires - factory connector - adapter harness connector - adapter harness wires - spade connectors.
Trust me, hacking off factory connector or trying to splice into factory wire behind the connector is NOT something you want to do.
This would definitely make things easier than putting on the connectors in the vehicle. I might do it this time.
 

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Everything I've read about the first gen subs say that there's no aftermarket subs that will fit in that space, so our only option is to reuse the old one or scrap it and have no sub at all in the original spot.
many shallow fit subs work. Crutchfield lists 21 Replacement Subs at Crutchfield
 
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